Textile Science

What is the texture manufacturing chain?

1. Fiber Production → 2. Yarn Production (spinning) → 3. Fabric Production (woven, knitted, non-woven) → 4. Finishing (i.e., dying, printing, and finishing)

What are the Natural Animal Protein Fibers?

• Wool

• Virgin Wool

• Mohair

• Alpaca

• Cashmere

• Camel

• Vicuna

• Angora

What is the Natural Animal Protein Secretion Fiber?

• Silk

What are the Natural Plant Cellulosic Fibers?

• Cotton

• Linen

• Hemp

• Jute

• Ramie

• Abaca

• Sisal

What are the Man-Made Artificial Cellulosic Fibers?

• Viscose Rayon

• Lyocell

• Modal

• Cupro

  • Acetate/Triacetate: USE MODIFIED CELLULOSE!

What are the Man-Made Synthetic Polymer Fibers?

• Polyester

• Nylon (Polyamide)

• Acrylic

• Modacrylic

• Elastan/Spandex

What are the Natural Animal Protein Fibers’ Denomination Codes?

• WO: Wool

• WV: Virgin Wool

• WM: Mohair

• WK: Camel

• WA: Angora

• WS: Cashmere

• WP: Alpaca

• WG: Vicuna

What is the Natural Animal Protein Secretion Fiber’s Denomination Code?

• SE: Silk

What are the Natural Plant Cellulosic Fibers’ Denomination Code?

• CO: Cotton

• LI: Linen

• RA: Ramie

• CA: Hemp

• JU: Jute

What are the Man-Made Synthetic Polymer Fibers’ Denomination Codes?

• PL: Polyester

• PC: Acrylic

• MA: Modacrylic

• EA: Elastan/Spandex

• PA: Polyamide

Other Denomination Codes:

• ME: Metallic Fibers

• AF: Other Fibers

What are performance properties?

• Durability

  • Tensile Strength

  • Abrasion Resistance

  • Pilling Resistance

  • Dimensional Stability

• Comfort

  • Elasticity

  • Absorbency

• Chemical Performance:

  • Resistance to Light

  • Resistance to Chlorine Bleach

What are aesthetic properties?

• Hand

• Drape

• Luster

• Texture

What is the physical structure for fiber attributes?

• Length

• Diameter

• Shape

• Color

What is the chemical composition for fiber attributes?

• Cellulose

• Fibroin

• Keratin

How is cotton obtained?

• Grows in tropical regions

• Needs irrigation fertilizers

• Defoliation before harvesting

• Picked

• Ginned

Carded/Combed Cotton vs. Woolen/Worsted Wool

Carded Cotton: Uncombed Cotton

Combed Cotton: Combed Cotton

Woolen Wool: Uncombed Wool

Worsted Wool: Combed Wool

If the burning test is: burns, burning hair odor, black brittle residue, what are the possible fibers?

Staple:

• Natural Animal Protein Fibers:

  • Wool

  • Virgin Wool

  • Alpaca

  • Mohair

  • Vicuna

  • Angora

  • Camel

  • Cashmere

• Natural Animal Protein Secretion Fibers:

  • Silk (if staple)

Filament:

• Natural Animal Protein Secretion Fibers:

  • Silk (if staple)

If the burning test is: burns, burning paper odor, light-weight grey residue, then what are the potential fibers?

Staple:

• Natural Plant Cellulosic Fibers:

  • Cotton

  • Linen

  • Ramie

  • Hemp

• Man-Made Artificial Cellulosic Fibers

  • Viscose Rayon

  • Modal

  • Lyocell

  • Cupro

Filament:

• Man-Made Artificial Cellulosic Fibers:

  • Viscose Rayon

  • Modal

  • Lyocell

  • Cupro

If the burning test is: melts then burns, burning paper or vinegar odor, and hard bead residue, then what are the potential fibers?

Staple AND Filament:

• Man-Made Artificial Modified Cellulosic Fibers:

  • Acetate

  • Triacetate

If the burning test is: melts and burns, burning plastic/chemical odor, and hard bead residue, then what are the potential fibers?

Staple:

• Man-Made Synthetic Polymer Fibers:

  • Polyester

  • Modacrylic

  • Acrylic

  • Polyamide (Nylon)

Filament:

• Man-Made Synthetic Polymer Fibers:

  • Polyester

  • Modacrylic

  • Acrylic

  • Polyamide (Nylon)

  • Elastane (only used in filament form)

What are the yarn types?

Filament:

• Monofilament

• Multifilament

• Lame

• Textured Multifilament

Spun:

• Carded

• Combed

• Woolen

• Worsted

What are the yarn construction types?

• Simple Yarns:

  • Single Spun

  • Two-Ply Spun

  • Cord Spun

• Fancy Yarns

• Core Spun

Fixed Length of Yarn: (Tex, dTex)

Thin Yarn → Smaller Number

Thick Yarn → Bigger Number

Fixed Mass of Yarn (Nm, Ne)

Thin Yarn → Bigger Number

Thicker Yarn → Smaller Number

Types of Simple Weaves:

• Plain

  • Basket

  • Ribbed

• Twill

  • Herringbone

  • Balanced Twill

  • Broken Twill

• Satin

Types of Complex Weaves

• Dobby

  • Pique

  • Honeycomb

• Jacquard

  • Damask → Reversible

  • Brocade

• Pile

  • Velvet

  • Corduroy

  • Terrycloth

Types of Patterns

• Buffalo Check

• Gingham

• Prince of Wales

• Tartan

• Pinstripe

• Houndstooth

• Windowpane

• Plaid

What is the warp in weaving?

Vertical Yarns

What is the filling in weaving?

Horizontal Yarns

What is knitting?

An interlooping of yarns

What is a warp and weft in knitting?

• Warp: Horizontal Knits

• Weft: Vertical Knit

What is the gauge?

Knitting Needles per Square Inch

Types of Knits:

• Jersey (single/double)

• Rib (1×1, 2×2)

• Jacquard (single, double)

• French Terry

• Pique (raised pattern)

• Pile

• Interlock (only legs visible)

• Knit Terry

• Knit Velour

• Rachel Lace/Mesh

• Tulle

• Tricot

What is the course?

Horizontal Stitches

What is the wale?

Vertical Stitches

What is the difference between dye vs. pigments?

• Dye: Water Soluble - Chemically Bonds

  • Natural → Plants, Animals, Minerals

  • Synthetic

• Pigments: Not Water Soluble - Needs Resin

Dying Stages:

• Polymer Dying

• Stock Dying

• Yarn Dying

• Piece Dying

• Product Dying

What is color fastness?

Property of a dyed and/or printed textile to resist color loss or fading from…

• washing

• sunlight

• chlorine

• rain

• crocking (rubbing)

What is printing?

Applying a pattern to a textile, which is only in the fabric/garment stage, with either print paste or ink.

What are the Printing Methods?

• Block

• Screen

  • Flatbed - Semi-Continuous

  • Rotary - For Small Details

• Digital - For Intricate Designs and Blending

• Sublimation = Heat Transfer → Only for PL!

What are the types of printing?

• Direct print - on white fabric

• Overprint

• Blotch - both background and design are printed

• Discharge - bleaching agent used

• Burnout - burned

• Flock - glue printed, and then short fibers added

• Metallic

Color Fastness → Dyestuff vs. Pigments

• Dyes:

  • Better color fastness to washing and crocking

• Pigments

  • Better color fastness to light

What are the three categories of finishings?

• Preparatory → Applied before dying and printing

• Aesthetic → Modify texture, luster, and hand

• Functional → Improve/Modify performance

Types of Aesthetic Finishings:

• Mercerization: COTTON → improves strength and luster

• Glazing: Treated with starch or wax → smooth surface with good luster

• Laminating: Plastic membrane or metallic foil

• Coating: Resin is applied, can be metallic

• Embossing: Raised three-dimensional pattern

• Moire: Watermarked effect

• Pleating: Pleats

• Sanding: Sanded fabric that is now soft

• Sueding: Feels like suede

• Napping: Brushing that creates a pile surface

• Fulling: Wool fibers are purposely shrunk to increase density

What is the selvage?

Edge of the fabric roll

What are the weight measurements?

• Sq. mt.

• L. mt.