fashion

Running Stitch

stitching, space, stitch permanent with knots @ both ends

Equally visible on both sides of fabric

Strength depends on size of stitching

Can be used for construction or hemming

Fastest hand sewing, easy, weaker than machine, but can be done anywhere

Catch stitch

used to stitch a flat edge in order to prevent raveling

Slipstitch

Permanent, invisible hand stitch, used to attatch a folded edge to a flat surface.

Whipping Stitch

a series of visible diagonal stitches wrapping around a fabric’s edge with a lot of thread showing, offering moderate durability, and is best used for finishing edges, sewing thicker materials like felt, quick repairs, or decorative seams.

Plain seam

2 pieces of fabric

2 pieces of fabric right sides together

Sew a straight line @ certain distance from cut edge of fabric. 

Backstitch both ends of stitching

Press open seam allowance so its flat against fabric

Dart

1 piece of fabric

Fits the garment to account for a change of circumference

Looks like a triangle on a pattern piece

To Pin: Fold on center line, pin lines together 

Backstitch at base, sew on lines, knot at point.

top stitching

Finish edge/reinforce/strengthen 

Stitching visible on outside of garment 

Used to finish 

an edge as a hem 

reinforce a seam

or be decorative

French Seam

Small plain seam, flip, trim, sew 2nd seam

Looks like plain seam on outside

Seam allowance encased so edges don’t show

Use on Sheer fabrics or when you see the inside

Flat Felled Seam

Plain seam, seam allowance graded, folded and top stitched. 

Seam allowance encased so edges don’t show

Adds strength, hides raw edges, more casual because top stitch shows on outside

Standard seam allowance

5/8 inch

Standard machine stitch width

width (0) & length (3) 

Hand finishing options

Whip, slip, catch

Machine finishing options

Top stitch, double fold hem

Another piece finishing options

bias tape, band, sleeve, collar

Bias Tape

fabric cut on a diagonal grain sewn to finish curves

Serger

machine that wraps the edges so it doesn’t fray.

Trimming

cutting both seam allowances

Grading

cutting 1 seam allowance

Notching

removing pie slices of bulk on outer curves

Clipping

cutting straight lines of fringe on inner curves

How to sew and cut corners 

Restitch to reinforce

Inner - straight cut like a hinge

Outer - clip 45* diagonal

Shank

Hook/eye

Snaps

2 sides

4- hole button

Hook/bar

Machine Needle

Hand sewing needle

Push Pin

Fabric Shears

Snips

ham

Natural Fibers

• Derived from animal and plant sources 

• Cotton, linen, bamboo, wool, and silk. 

• Absorbent, Durable, More Eco-friendly

Synthetic Fibers

• human-made, artificial fibers made from chemical compound

• Polyester, Rayon, Spandex, Acrylic

• Cheaper, Stain resistant, Waterproof/water resistant.

lengthwise grain

the direction of fabric that runs parallel to the selvage, is the strongest and least stretchy, and helps garments keep their shape.

bias

The bias is the diagonal direction of fabric (at a 45° angle to the grain) that has the most stretch and flexibility, making it useful for curved or draped designs.

selvage edge

the tightly woven, finished edge of fabric that runs along its length and prevents fraying.

crosswise grain

runs perpendicular to the selvage, has a bit more stretch than the lengthwise grain, and is commonly used for comfort and flexibility in garments.

cut line

is the marked line on fabric or a pattern that shows exactly where the material should be cut.

seam line

is the line where two pieces of fabric are stitched together, usually inside the cut edge at the seam allowance.

sewing machine