Ocean CH 3 The life of a waveand CH 9 Ocean and Lit review info

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Last updated 2:13 AM on 4/16/26
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28 Terms

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What creates waves?

wind and storms from the middle of the ocean

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How are ocean eaves like a stadium wave?

The water particles are transferring energy but not moving themselves, transporting energy from one area to a different area- waves convey information of a disturbance

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What drives these differences in surf waves?

the interaction of the wind energy with the seafloor

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What are the parts to the life of a surf wave?

generation, propogation, arrival

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capillary waves

wavelength is < 2cm

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surface gravity wave

wavelength is > 2cm

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Wave height (H)

distance between crest and trough

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wavelength (l)

distance between A and B

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period (T)

time (seconds) required

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how do waves move in the open ocean?

energy particles move by circular orbital motions, energy is transmitted from one particle to another essentially staying in one place while the energy moves

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Generation

a storm brews far away, and the wind transfers the energy to the water; as more capillary waves form, wind and surface interact more

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what factors influence amount of energy in a wave?

wind speed, duration of wind blows, fetch = distance over which wind blows

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constructive interference

swells combine and add up

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destructive interference

swells cancel each other out

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mixed interference

swells of different wavelengths and heights interact

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what happens to deep waves as energy approach shallow water

they become shallower waves because the wave base touches the bottom and the wavelength shortens and the height increases, squashing the energy

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wave refraction

process of changing velocity as wave arrives to coast

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when does a wave break?

energy is squsahed, bottom of wave touches the bottom, circular orbitals squash, breaks when depth is deeper than the wave height

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what are king tides?

highest high tides predicted by sun and moons relative location to earth

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argo floats

broad scale global array of temperature/salinity of the upper 2,000 m of the global ocean

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Calistas LIT review

calista is writing about Cassiopeia jellyfish which can be invasive species in some places. she is including reproduction, feeding habits and how the species in Hawaii is special

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Sea otter reintroduction

keystone role, ecological impact, management challenges, and the variable effects of reintroduction

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where does most of the freshwater we use come from?

groundwater

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how much of available water is in the ocean

97%

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ocean stats for evaporation and participation

86% global evaporation and 78% precipitation over ocean

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what is the oceans capacity to soak in sun heat

1000x that of the atmosphere

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How was oxygen added to the atmosphere over billions of years?

cyanobacteria

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Roger Revelle