Jewelry 1301

used by jewelers as the primary form of metal removal, appealing because of the speed, accuracy, and versatility

sawing

Saw frames have stayed the same in overall design for centuries, with saw blades held under tension in a frame originating in ancient ________ times

Roman

A properly adjusted saw blade should produce a pleasant 'ping' when plucked (Most saw blades are properly adjusted when they sound like an ___ or ____ when plucked)

E or F

TPI

Teeth per inch

Scale of saw blades

8/0 being the finest (most TPI) and 14 being the coarsest (fewest TPI). Smaller number = Finer, bigger number = coarser

Generally, the thickness of the metal being sawn should accommodate a minimum of _____ teeth to allow for a smooth cut

three

finely detailed openings typical in an arabesque or Celtic knot pattern may well require a saw blade of ______ dimensions than needed for the material's thickness

smaller

Position the saw so that the blade rests to the _____ of the line to be sawn

right

You should saw approximately one ______ _______ ________ away from the line

saw blade width

The vertical strokes need to be done rhythmically at a moderate speed, with ______ ______ forward pressure

very light

what does lubricant do?

extends the life of your saw blade

Generally, I will lubricate _____ and coarser blades

2/0

____ is far faster than sawing

shearing

_______ _______, _____ ______ _____ _____, and _______ ______ are common types of hand shears used and have the benefit of being able to follow a curved line

Jewelers shears/snips, left handed Brown's shears, and aviation shears

________ _______ which will cut much thicker stock but are normally restricted to cutting a straight line. Examples include guillotine shears and bench shears

mounted shears

When making repeated shapes out of sheet metal, nothing does a better job than a quality _____ ______ . There are many commercially available shapes, circles, ovals, stars, etc

disc cutter

axis of a file

A center line About which the body and teeth are symmetrically arranged.

edge of file

One of the narrow sides

back of file

If a file has a flat side, the other side is the back, i.e., on a half round file the round side is the back

heel of file

The area where the tang flares out to the full width of the file.

length of file

With Engineering file its the distance from the heel/shoulder to the point, whereas with needle files it is measured from the end of the tang to the point.

point of file

Opposite of the tang, it is the end you would 'point' at your work.

safety edge of file

: A smooth edge of a file, either from never being cut or having the teeth abraded off. Used next to materials not to be damaged.

shoulder of file

same as heel

side of file

The broad cutting surface.

tang of file

The area of the file which is designed to hold on to, or affix a handle to. With hand files,the tang is narrowed to accept a handle, while needle and escapement files the tang is designed to be used as a handle. File handles for needle and escapement files are made so that using them is more comfortable

taper of file

The diminishing width of the file as you near the point.

teeth of file

The small cutting edges of a file that actually do the job of removing metal

jewelers primarily use three types of files: ______ ______ , ______ ______ , and _______ _______

hand files, needle files, and escapement files

Hand files

for large projects and an aggressive removal of metal

needle files

smaller and finer of cut and are used for delicate shaping and forming of smaller parts

escapement files

the finest file, used for the most delicate work

__________ files use cut designations (coarse to fine) of Rough, Middle, Bastard, Second Cut, Smooth, and Dead Smooth

American

______ and _______ files use a number designation (00 coarsest to 8 finest)

Swiss and German

Blunt (file)

A file having parallel sides, with no taper.

Chalking (file)

the practice of applying chalk to a file to minimize pinning

Double Cut (file)

the crisscross pattern of teeth formed by a series of cuts

Engineering File

The same as an american pattern file

Pinning

The unwanted collection of debris in the teeth of a file from the process of filing

Precision file

same as a swiss pattern file

Rifflers

a specialty file having teeth cut on a small double curved area at each end with the center area plain to be used as the handle

Rasp cut

a coarse rough file used for aggressive removal of soft material, typically for wax carving in the jewelry industry. These are produced by a punch raising individual teeth

Shape (files)

normally describing the cross section of a file; square, round, and half-round, for example. Others are named for the purpose they are for, i.e. equaling, screw head, and joint files fall into this category. And some, like the pippin, we just don't know

Shelling

breaking the teeth of a file from downward pressure on the file during the backstroke

TPI

teeth per inch. A method of determining the coarseness of a file

the most common filing technique used in jewelry

cross filing or straight forward filing

Cross filing/straight forward filing

involves starting with an area near the point of the file in contact with the metal, applying light pressure and pushing the file forward (parallel to its axis), removing pressure, returning to the starting position, and doing it again.

Draw filing

A less versatile technique, provides for the slower more controlled removal of metal and leaves a smoother finish than Cross filing. Holding the tang in one hand and the point in another the file is pushed and pulled perpendicular to its axis, across the metal to be removed.

Emery

is a rock composed primarily of corundum, with varying amounts of other minerals such as magnetite, hercynite, and rutile. Its primary use is as an abrasive

Emery grit system

describes the number of holes per inch in the screen used to sort the grit (higher the number, the smaller the size of individual grits), microns most commonly used scale

in jewelry applications, _______ is the intermediate step between filing and polishing

emery

File marks, layout lines, tool marks, etc, should all be removed with your ________ emery before moving on to your ________ emery

coarse, finer

rotate the piece so that the new emery marks on the piece will be at _____ _______ to earlier marks. This allows for confirmation that the aforementioned marks have actually been removed

90 degrees

Emery Plate

emery paper glued to a hard, perfectly flat surface, such as glass. used in the general finishing of a piece, as well as to apply a final emery finish to flat surfaces

when using an emery plate, it is important to use _________ ________ and the entire area of a given grit as uniformly as possible.

gentle pressure

emery sticks

most common way emery is used by most jewelers, highly versatile, and generally fast to use. Generally, between 10'' and 14'' with a rectangular cross section and are made by affixing emery paper around all sides in a 9'' area.

Drills

used as a part of pierce work, or stone setting

Drill bits used

standard HSS twist drills

rake of a drill

the angle that the cutting edge meets the metal being cut

Spade or pivot point drill bits

not as common, normally used by jewelers to drill pearls and other soft and delicate materials.

Twist drills

point angle is based on cutting ferric metals, these are typically available with a point angle between 118 and 135 degrees, the smaller point angle is more desirable for softer metals

Drilling

Make sure the piece is well secured, your drill bit is snugly secured in the hand-piece, and that the lubricant is in a handy location. To the degree that you can brace yourself, arms tight against your sides and the heel of the hand holding the flex shaft resting on the bench pin. Assuming the spot to be drilled is marked and has a divot large enough to receive the drills tip, with the drill aligned and turning at a slow to moderate speed bring the drill into contact with the metal, applying very light pressure

it will likely be necessary to apply lubricant every ______ to _____ that you drill

3/4 to 1 mm

Removing burrs after drilling

use a larger drill by hand, holding it parallel to the drill hole and twist the drill bit into the burrs till they are removed

What is the order from fastest to slowest to file metal?

Shearing, sawing, filing, abrasive paper

Abrasive paper: The larger the grit a paper has, the ____ it is

finer / less coarse

Drills: The higher a drill number is, the ____ it is

thinner

What 2 factors affect the way a drill cuts?

1. The degree of the point angle

2. The rake of the edge

What is the principal difference in the motors?

Their horsepower and speed

Abrasive papers: What is the industry standard abrasive material, and what are its alternate names?

Silicon carbide, aka “Carborundum”, “Crystolon”, and “Carbolon”

What are the 3 main types of files?

1. Hand files

2. Needle files

3. Escapement files

What is the purpose of a hand file?

For large projects and an aggressive removal of metal

What is the purpose of a needle file?

Smaller and finer cuts, and are used for delicate shaping and forming of other smaller parts

What is the purpose of an escapement file?

The finest file of the 3; used for the most delicate work

What is work hardening?

Metal becoming harder due to changes in the metal’s grain (crystal) structure caused by shaping (e.g., being bent, hammered, drawn down, or subjected to other processes that reshapes/resizes it)

What is the difference between elastic vs plastic deformation?

Elastic deformation is when metal returns to its original shape after a force is removed, plastic deformation is when the metal doesn’t return to its original shape after the force is removed- it stays its new shape

What happens when a metal is bent beyond its ability to spring back?

It does not return to its original shape (Plastic deformation)

What is annealing?

Softening metal, to prevent overworking and allows for easy formation of the metal

What happens if a metal is overworked?

It becomes brittle, splits, or cracks

T/F: It’s a common and useful quality for jewelry metals to become harder once it has been work hardened

True

To be conservative, when should you anneal metal? (2 instances)

1. When you changed from one shape to another (e.g., round → square, vice versa)

2. Reduced thickness by 1/3 of the thickness, from its thickness when last annealed

What is the job of a rolling mill?

To produce sheet or flat stock, cut corner square wire, and half-round wire

What are the benefits of using a rolling mill?

Speed, accuracy, and repeatability