Milady Standard Cosmetology - Chapter 15: Chemical Texture Services

Comprehensive practice flashcards covering Chapter 15: Chemical Texture Services from Milady Standard Cosmetology, including chemical relaxers, permanent waving, pH chemistry, tools, procedures, and safety precautions.

What are the four primary types of chemical texture services performed in a salon setting?

Chemical relaxers, keratin smoothing treatments, permanent waving, and soft curl permanents.

Why are chemical texture services considered timeless in salon cosmetology?

Even though hairstyling trends constantly evolve, many clients will always desire to chemically alter their natural hair texture.

How do hydrogen bonds and disulfide bonds differ in terms of how they can be broken?

Hydrogen bonds are easily broken by water and reform naturally as the hair dries, whereas disulfide bonds cannot be broken by water and require chemical solutions to break them.

What is the natural pH range of human hair and skin?

$4.5$ to $5.5$.

How much more alkaline is a chemical solution with a pH of 13 compared to hair with a pH of 5?

It is $100\text{ million } (100,000,000)$ times more alkaline, because each single step on the pH scale represents a 10-fold change in concentration.

What is the primary objective of chemically relaxing the hair?

It is a process that permanently rearranges the structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form.

What is the active ingredient and pH range of sodium hydroxide relaxers?

Sodium hydroxide (also known as lye or caustic soda), with a pH range of $12.5$ to $14.0$.

What chemical process do hydroxide relaxers use to permanently straighten hair?

Lanthionization, which removes one sulfur atom from a disulfide bond and converts it into a lanthionine bond.

How many sulfur atoms are contained in a lanthionine bond compared to a disulfide bond?

A lanthionine bond contains only one sulfur atom, whereas a disulfide bond consists of two bonded sulfur atoms.

Can disulfide bonds that are broken by hydroxide relaxers ever be reformed?

No, the disulfide bonds broken by hydroxide relaxers can never be reformed.

What are metal hydroxide relaxers, and do they require mixing prior to application?

They are ionic compounds formed by a metal combined with oxygen and hydrogen (such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, and lithium hydroxide) that do not require product mixing before application.

Why do repeated applications of no-lye guanidine hydroxide relaxers cause hair to feel dry, and how is it corrected?

They cause a buildup of calcium residue; this can be remedied by using a gentle chelating shampoo specifically formulated for mineral removal, followed by a deep conditioning treatment.

What happens if a cosmetologist applies a lye relaxer to hair that was previously relaxed at home with a no-lye relaxer?

A line of demarcation will form because the lye relaxer cannot penetrate the calcium residue buildup left behind by the no-lye relaxer.

What distinguishes base relaxers from no-base relaxers during application?

Base relaxers require a separate application of protective base cream across the entire scalp and hairline before service, whereas no-base relaxers contain a base that melts at body temperature (though base cream is still applied around the hairline, nape, and ears).

What factor determines the strength difference between mild, regular, and super hydroxide relaxers?

The concentration of hydroxide in the chemical formula.

To what maximum percentage can healthy hair curl be safely relaxed?

Up to $75\%$ of its original curl pattern.

What condition occurs if $100\%$ of the hair's curl texture is relaxed?

The hair becomes limp, unable to hold a style, overprocessed, and extremely damaged.

What are the required steps of hydroxide relaxer neutralization?

Thoroughly rinsing the relaxer with warm water, optionally applying a normalizing lotion to lower pH, and performing multiple applications of an acid-balanced neutralizing shampoo.

What is the active ingredient and reducing agent in thio relaxers?

Ammonium thioglycolate (ATG).

How does ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) break disulfide bonds during the reduction process?

It breaks disulfide bonds by adding a hydrogen atom to each sulfur atom, which causes the sulfur atoms to detach from each other.

What three vital functions does the neutralizer perform during a thio relaxer service?

It neutralizes (deactivates) remaining relaxer solution, rebuilds disulfide bonds by removing added hydrogen atoms through oxidation, and locks the new hair shape into place.

How does the ATG formulation in thio relaxers differ from that in alkaline permanent waves?

Thio relaxers use ATG at a higher concentration, a higher pH, and a higher viscosity (thickness).

What active ingredients and pH range are typical of low-pH relaxers?

Ammonium sulfite, ammonium bisulfite, or ammonium sulfate, with a pH range of $6.5$ to $8.5$.

How do keratin-based smoothing treatments work, and how long do their results last?

They are semipermanent treatments that coat the cuticle in a protective protein layer, eliminating up to $90\%$ of curl and providing frizz-free results for up to 12 weeks.

Why do keratin smoothing treatments containing formalin or methylene glycol pose a health hazard?

They release formaldehyde during processing, which is classified as a hazardous chemical by OSHA and a probable human carcinogen by the EPA.

Why should metal clips and metal bowls never be used during relaxer or perming services?

Metal can cause an adverse chemical reaction when in contact with relaxer or perm solutions.

Why must a cosmetologist never comb relaxer solution through the hair?

Combing relaxer through the hair can cause severe hair breakage.

How is a metallic salts test prepared and conducted?

Mix $1\text{ ounce } (29.5\,\text{mL})$ of 20-volume peroxide with 20 drops of $28\%$ ammonia in a glass or plastic bowl, and immerse at least 20 strands of hair for 30 minutes.

What signs indicate the presence of metallic salts during a metallic salts test?

The hair lightens significantly and rapidly, the solution gets hot, and it gives off an unpleasant odor.

How does hair porosity dictate the alkalinity needed in a chemical texture service?

Low-porosity hair has a compact cuticle and requires higher alkalinity to penetrate the cortex, whereas high-porosity hair requires lower alkalinity to avoid damage.

How long must a client refrain from shampooing before receiving a chemical relaxer?

At least one full week prior to the relaxer service.

Why is it important to ask a chemical relaxer client if they regularly consume caffeine?

Caffeine increases blood circulation and promotes sweating, which can lead to faster scalp irritation once the chemical relaxer is applied.

What are the common symptoms of central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia (CCCA)?

Burning, tingling 'pins and needles,' scalp tenderness, crust, or pimples, often accompanied by inflammation and permanent hair loss.

Where is the product placed first during a virgin relaxer application?

On the midshaft, starting $0.5\text{ inch } (1.25\,\text{cm})$ away from the scalp up to the porous ends.

Where is a chemical relaxer placed during a relaxer retouch application?

Starting $0.25$ to $0.5\text{ inch } (0.6\text{ to }1.25\,\text{cm})$ away from the scalp, applied strictly to the new growth area.

What are the two major chemical categories of permanent wave solutions?

Alkaline perm solutions and acidic perm solutions.

What is the alternative name and pH range for alkaline permanent waves?

Cold waves, with a pH range of $9.0$ to $9.6$.

What is the primary active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions?

Glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG).

What are the pH and processing characteristics of true acid waves?

They have a pH of $4.5$ to $7.0$, require outside heat to process (endothermic), process more slowly, and produce softer curls.

How do exothermic permanent waves produce heat during processing?

An oxidizing activator (typically hydrogen peroxide) is mixed into the thio perm solution immediately before use, triggering an exothermic chemical reaction that rapidly produces heat.

What external heat source is required to activate an endothermic permanent wave?

An outside heat source, usually a conventional hooded hair dryer.

Which alkanolamines are commonly used as ammonia substitutes in ammonia-free perms?

Aminomethylpropanol (AMP) and monoethanolamine (MEA).

What alternative reducing agents are utilized in thio-free permanent waves?

Cysteamine or mercaptamine.

During what processing period does the majority of permanent wave restructuring take place?

Within the first 5 to 10 minutes after the waving solution penetrates the hair shaft.

What percentage of disulfide bonds should be broken and rebuilt during proper perm processing?

Approximately $50\%$.

What curl pattern characteristic is indicative of overprocessed permed hair?

The hair is usually curlier at the scalp and straighter at the ends.

What curl pattern is created by concave perm rods compared to straight perm rods?

Concave rods produce a tighter curl in the center and looser on the sides, while straight rods produce a uniform curl diameter across the entire width of the hair strand.

What are soft bender perm rods, and what styling results do they provide?

Flexible foam rods about 12 inches ($30.5\,\text{cm}$) long with an inner wire, used to create hybrid combinations of soft curls, volume, texture, and beach waves.

What is the primary function of end papers in permanent waving?

To control hair ends, keep them smooth and straight, allow room for hair swelling, and prevent fishhooks.

How is a bookend wrap technique executed on a subsection of hair?

One end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope, keeping the hair from resting directly in the fold.

What wrapping angle is used for on-base perm rod placement, and what risk does it carry?

The hair is wrapped at $45^\circ$ beyond perpendicular to its base section; caution is required because the added tension can cause hair breakage.

How do croquignole and spiral wrapping techniques differ in their curl formation?

Croquignole wraps hair from ends to scalp in overlapping layers (producing tighter ends and looser scalp curls), whereas spiral wraps coil vertically along the rod, producing a uniform curl diameter from scalp to ends.

What is the main design advantage of utilizing a bricklay perm wrapping pattern?

Base sections are offset row by row (like bricks), which prevents noticeable splits and blends the directional flow of the hair.

What is a double-rod (piggyback) wrap, and when is it recommended?

A technique where one rod wraps hair from scalp to midshaft and a second rod wraps the remaining length in the same direction, recommended for extra-long hair to ensure uniform curl and even penetration.

What is a soft curl permanent, and what chemical incompatibility must cosmetologists remember?

A hybrid service using a thio relaxer (rearranger) followed by perming on large rods to loosen very curly hair; it must never be performed on hair previously treated with hydroxide relaxers.