FM144 Exam 1

Metallurgy

the science of extracting and processing metals

Extractive metallurgy

deals with extracting metals from ores and refining them

Ore

a metal bearing rock that contains one or more metallic minerals.

Ferrous

ores which are iron bearing

Non ferrous

ore that doesnt contain iron

White gold component

Gold alloyed with more palladium

Pink Gold component

has four alloys, with copper being almost 1/3 of the total alloy, “a red gold alloy”

Yellow gold component

Pure gold (non ferrous), alloyed to give strength and usually mixed with copper and silver or palladium yielding alloy

24k Gold

Pure gold

18k gold

75% gold, 25% other

14k gold

58.3% gold 41.7% other

Mechanical watch

a watch movement that is gear driven (ANALOG) that requires winding the mainspring which will then uncoil, DOESNT USE BATTERY

Lost wax casting

also called investment casting/cire perdue, a metal forming technique used to create highly detailed and complex objects from an original model

Jewel movements

used in watches to make the gears move with less friction

Cast

melted and poured to make a mold

Analog

moving hands on a dial to indicate the time

digital

numeric time display on the dial

Chased/Chasing

tapping using hammer and punch

etching

using acid to create design in metal

Hammering

tapping designs into metal

Repousse

Hammering to make 3d designs

Stamping

steel dies create a 2d impression in sheet stock metal

Four basic methods of metal fabrication

Drawing, Extrusion, Forging, Rolling

Enameled

a decorative technique where fused powdered glass creates a smooth, glossy, and colorful coating on a metal base, cold method and hot, used in cloisonne, champleve, plique a jour (transparent, translucent , or opaque)

Vermeil

Gold vermeil, a gold thats plated or coated over sterling silver base, the gold must be 1/40 of the total weight

Plique a jour

similar to stained glass, glass granulates are melted between unbacked filigree wire designs

Cloisonne

Filigree wires are soldered onto metal to define a design

Crystalline

shape, repeated and identical molecular structure, these can be cut into facets

Amorphous

shape, lacking a systemic arrangement of cells

Ruby components

formed from limestone within a mineral called corundum that contains trace elements of chromium, whcih gives the red coloration to the stone, 9 on mohs scale

Sapphire components

formed from the mineral corundum that has trace elements of iron and titanium, sapphires can also be green, orange, or yellow, 9 on mohs scale

Emerald components

Chromium makes an emerald green, without chromium that would be the same as aquamarine

Diamond components

hardest of the precious gemstones, 10 on mohs scale, result of high heat (2200 degrees f) and extreme pressure under earths crust formed millions of years ago, formed from coal and carbon, classified as crystalline

Brilliant cut

58 facets on a round stone

Emerald cut

oblong shape, 49 facets

Fancy stones

colored diamonds, can be pink, yellow, or blue

inclusions

flaws found in the stone, like black/coal spots

Mohs Scale

1-10 grading system, 10 being the hardest and 1 being the softest

Corundum

a very hard rock-forming mineral made of aluminum oxide, 9 on the Mohs scale. It is the second-hardest natural mineral on Earth, surpassed only by diamond

Orient

the sheen/shimmer on the surface of a pearl

Teri

refers to the brilliance of a pearl, japanese term for luster, brilliance, and reflective glow of a pearl

baroque

any pearl with an irregular shape

nacre

thickness of a pearl, the oyster coats the sand with calcium carbonate, referred to as nacre

Nucleation

the surgical procedure of implanting a nucleus into a mollusk to trigger the growth of a cultured pearl

Amber

semi-precioius stone, fossilized tree resin

Stras

used to make imitation gemstones, highly reflective glass paste

Bridge Jewelry(demi jewelry)

priced between fine jewelry and costume, less costly, semi precious, can use 14k/10k gold, sterling silver, and vermeil finishes

findings

mass-produced components used in jewelry, like clasps, hinges, earring backs, pin closures, pre-manufactured settings

The 4 C’s

Cut: Most popular is brilliant with 58 symmetrical cuts/facets

Shape: Round, Brilliant, Emerald, Princess, Marquis, Pear, Baguette, Cabochon

Clarity: The absence/presence of flaws/inclusions, the fewer the more value

C of O: Where the stone was mined

The 5th C

Clarity/FLAWLESS: Diamonds are classified from Flawless to Imperfect. Flawless is defined as no visible blemishes or internal inclusions visible under 10X magnification(jewelers loupe)

Cabochons

Stones are cut as cabochons, smooth, rounded domes, to enhance these effects

Alloy

a mixture of two or more metallic elements to improve the strength, durability, color, and workability of soft pure metals, one element has to be a metal

Amalgams

alloys formed by mixing mercury with another metal (typically gold or silver

Precious Metals

Gold, Silver, Platinum Family

Jewlery Is fabricated by the following method:

Molten state(bars,sheets, wire, scrap can all be melted and shaped) an original design is uaukky produced used LOST WAX technique

Rolled Sheet Stock

used for hand cut jewelry was well as mass-produced stampings

Hammered

design by hand with ball pean hammer

Engraving

cutting a line design into metal which actually displaces some of the metal

Granulation

tiny granules of metal are melted in a raied design directly on the base metal without use of solder

Champleve

Hollow pockets are dug or scraped into the base metal

Polishing

By hand or tumbling

Soldering

Hard metallic solder is melted to permanetly bind one metal to another

Oxidizing

When the relief or lower areas of a design are desired to be a darker color, the piece is dipped into liver or sulphur solution

Lacquering

inexpensive jewelry is sometimes dipped or sprayed to prevent discoloration

Manmade stones

imitation: ceramic, glass, plastic

Rhinestones

popular diamond “look a like” imitation jewel made of glass or plastic

Synthetic gem

lab produced gemstones using the chemical properties of the original gem

Faceted Stones

The purpose of facets is to reflect and refract light

Cameo Cutting

The background surface of the gemstone is cut away leaving a raised 3d design in the top of the stone

Intaglio cutting

engraving or incising a design into the surface of the stone, leaving a flat top layer

Settings

Prong, Bead, Bezel, Pavel, Channel, Inlay

Style terminology

Necklaces, Chains, brooch, earrings, bracelets, charms, cuff links, tie bars, rings

Parts of a watch

Face, case, mechanism, bracelet/strap