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Paleolithic Fishing
Wooden hooks used for catching fish
160,000 Years Ago
Earliest evidence of humans harvesting molluscs and crustaceans
42,000 Years Ago
Age of the oldest fish hook found in Southeast Asia
23,000 Years Ago
Age of the oldest fish hooks found in Japan, made of beaks, bones, claws, and shells
Phoenicians
First accomplished Western navigators who sailed the Mediterranean, Red Sea, Atlantic, and Indian Ocean by 2000 B.C.
Aristotle
First marine biologist; created the "Ladder of Life" classifying ~1,400 marine species, studied gills, and detailed cuttlefish anatomy
Roman Marine Aquaculture
Widespread fish farming practice in ancient Roman villas around Sorrento and the Gulf of Naples
Dark Ages Marine Exploration
Period when European scientific inquiry stalled, but Vikings, Arabians, Chinese, and Polynesians continued ocean navigation
Luigi Ferdinando Marsili
18th-century scientist who developed and popularized the concept of the isobath
Lazzaro Spallanzani
18th-century researcher who conducted early studies on sea urchins and hermit crabs
James Cook
18th-century explorer who led 3 major ocean voyages, was the first to cross the Antarctic Circle, and mapped longitude
HMS Beagle Expedition
1831 voyage where Charles Darwin collected data leading to his Theory of Atolls and natural selection
US Explorer Expedition
1838 American expedition with 11 naturalists that mapped 280 atolls and collected massive biological collections
HMS Challenger Expedition
1872 voyage covering 68,000 nautical miles that discovered thousands of deep-sea species; results filled 50 volumes over 19 years
Stazione Zoologica Anton Dohrn
First permanent Marine Biological Institute in the world, founded in Naples, Italy in 1872 by Anton Dohrn
Bathysphere
Submersible used in 1934 off Bermuda to reach a record depth of 923 meters (3,028 feet)
Bathyscaphe Trieste
Deep-sea vehicle that reached the bottom of the Mariana Trench (10,916 meters) in 1960
Jacques Cousteau
Co-inventor of the open-circuit scuba demand regulator (Aqua-Lung) for underwater exploration
Hans Hass
Pioneer who developed underwater flash cameras and the Dräger oxygen rebreather
Ocean Surface Coverage
The world ocean covers ~70% of Earth's surface (61% Northern Hemisphere, 80% Southern Hemisphere)
Ocean Biosphere Share
The ocean contains 95% of the total livable biosphere volume on Earth
Pacific Ocean
Largest ocean (155.5M km²); mean depth 4,028 m; deepest point Mariana Trench (11,033 m)
Atlantic Ocean
Second largest ocean (76.7M km²); mean depth 3,926 m; deepest point Puerto Rico Trench (8,648 m)
Indian Ocean
Third largest ocean (68.5M km²); mean depth 3,963 m; deepest point Java Trench (7,725 m)
Southern Ocean
Fourth largest ocean (20.3M km²); mean depth 4,000 m; deepest point South Sandwich Trench (8,428 m)
Arctic Ocean
Smallest ocean (14.0M km²); mean depth 1,205 m; deepest point Litke Deep (5,450 m)
Continental Shelf
Gently sloping shallow extension of a continent extending to the shelf break
Continental Slope
Steeply sloping region connecting the continental shelf to the deep ocean floor
Continental Rise
Apron of sediment accumulated at the base of the continental slope
Abyssal Plain
Vast, flat, sediment-covered region of the deep ocean floor
Ocean Trench
Deep, steep-sided canyon formed at convergent subduction zones; deepest ocean areas
Seamount
Undersea volcanic mountain rising from the seafloor that does not break the water surface
Submarine Canyon
V-shaped canyon cut into the continental shelf and slope, ending in a deep-sea fan
Theory of Continental Drift
Hypothesis proposed by Alfred Wegener in 1912 stating that continents were once joined in a supercontinent
Wegener's Evidence
Fit of coastlines, matching fossils across oceans, matching geological formations, and paleoclimate traces
Pangaea
Supercontinent that existed 225 million years ago before splitting into Laurasia and Gondwana
Plate Tectonics
Movement of ~15 rigid lithospheric plates at speeds of 2-18 cm/year driven by mantle convection
Oceanic Crust
Dark, dense, basaltic crust that is thin (~5 km) and geologically young
Continental Crust
Light, less dense, granitic crust that is thick (~35-70 km) and geologically old
Moho Discontinuity
The boundary layer between the Earth's crust and the upper mantle
Lithosphere
Rigid outer layer of Earth comprising the crust and uppermost solid mantle
Asthenosphere
Soft, plastic layer of the upper mantle upon which tectonic plates float
Divergent Boundary
Plate boundary where plates pull apart, creating mid-ocean ridges and new oceanic crust
Oceanic-Continental Subduction
Boundary where dense oceanic crust sinks beneath continental crust, creating trenches and volcanic arcs
Oceanic-Oceanic Subduction
Boundary where older oceanic crust sinks, forming deep trenches and volcanic island arcs
Continental-Continental Collision
Boundary where two continental plates collide, pushing up non-volcanic mountain ranges
SONAR
Sound Navigation and Ranging; uses reflected sound waves to map seafloor depth and topography
Messinian Salinity Crisis
Geological event 5.7 Mya when the Mediterranean Sea evaporated, refilling rapidly 5.3 Mya
Subducting Plate
The denser plate (usually oceanic crust) that bends and sinks downward into the mantle
Overriding Plate
The less dense plate (continental or younger oceanic crust) that remains on top during subduction
Oceanic Trench (Subduction)
The steep-sided, V-shaped depression formed where the subducting plate bends into the mantle
Accretionary Wedge
A complex mass of scraped-off marine sediments and seafloor rock piled up against the front of the overriding plate
Forearc Region
The region between the oceanic trench and the volcanic arc on the overriding plate
Volcanic Arc
A curved chain of volcanoes formed on the overriding plate above the melting subducted slab (continental arc or island arc)
Backarc Region
The area behind the volcanic arc relative to the subduction zone and trench
Benioff Zone
A dipping planar zone of earthquake foci following the descending subducted slab down into the mantle
Water Polarity
Unequal electron sharing making oxygen slightly negative and hydrogens slightly positive, creating hydrogen bonds
Specific Heat of Water
Amount of heat needed to change water's temperature; 3,300x higher heat capacity than air
Ice Density
Ice is less dense than liquid water because hydrogen bonds expand into a crystalline lattice
Average Ocean Salinity
35 grams of dissolved salt per kilogram of seawater (35 PSU or 35 ppt)
Dominant Seawater Ions
Chloride (55%) and Sodium (31%), followed by Sulfate (8%) and Magnesium (4%)
Factors Raising Salinity
Evaporation and sea ice formation (leaves salt behind in liquid water)
Factors Lowering Salinity
Precipitation, river runoff, and melting ice
Halocline
Layer in the ocean water column where salinity changes rapidly with depth
Hydrostatic Pressure
Increases by 1 atmosphere (ATM) for every 10 meters (33 feet) of ocean depth
Dissolved Gas Solubility
Gases like oxygen and carbon dioxide dissolve most readily in cold, low-salinity water
Ocean Acidification
Process where absorbed CO2 forms carbonic acid, lowering pH and dissolving calcium carbonate shells
Light Absorption Spectrum
Red light is absorbed in top meters; blue and violet light penetrate deepest into the ocean
Photic Zone
Sunlit upper layer of the ocean extending from the surface down to ~200 meters
Disphotic Zone
Twilight ocean zone between 200 and 1,000 meters where light is insufficient for photosynthesis
Aphotic Zone
Pitch-black ocean zone located below 1,000 meters where no sunlight penetrates
Thermocline
Layer in the ocean water column where temperature decreases rapidly with depth
Ocean Gyre
Large circular system of ocean currents driven by global winds and continental boundaries
Coriolis Effect
Deflection of moving air/water to the right in the Northern Hemisphere and left in the Southern Hemisphere
Western Boundary Currents
Fast, deep, warm ocean currents moving poleward on the west side of ocean basins (e.g., Gulf Stream)
Eastern Boundary Currents
Slow, shallow, cold ocean currents moving equatorward on the east side of ocean basins (e.g., California Current)
Ekman Transport
Net movement of surface water at 90 degrees to the wind direction due to the Ekman spiral
Thermohaline Circulation
Deep-ocean global circulation driven by temperature and salinity density differences
Upwelling
Wind-driven process bringing cold, nutrient-rich deep water to the surface, boosting productivity
Wave Crest
The highest point of a wave above the still-water level
Wave Trough
The lowest point of a wave below the still-water level
Wave Height (H)
The vertical distance between the wave trough and the wave crest
Wavelength (L or λ)
The horizontal distance between two consecutive crests or two consecutive troughs
Wave Period (T)
The time it takes for two consecutive wave crests to pass a fixed point
Wave Frequency (f)
The number of wave crests passing a fixed point per unit of time (1/Period)
Still-Water Level
The average sea surface elevation in the absence of waves; halfway between crest and trough
Wave Base
The maximum depth to which wave energy penetrates, equal to 1/2 the wavelength (λ/2)
Fetch
The distance of open water over which wind blows unimpeded to generate waves
Shallow-Water Wave
A wave entering water shallower than 1/2 its wavelength, causing bottom friction and breaking
Tsunami
Long-period sea wave caused by undersea earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, or landslides
Spring Tides
Tides with the largest tidal range; occur during New and Full Moons when Sun, Moon, and Earth align
Neap Tides
Tides with the lowest tidal range; occur during 1st and 3rd Quarter moons at 90-degree angles
Diurnal Tide
Tidal pattern featuring one high tide and one low tide per lunar day
Semidiurnal Tide
Tidal pattern featuring two high tides and two low tides of equal height per lunar day
Mixed Semidiurnal Tide
Tidal pattern featuring two high tides and two low tides of unequal height per lunar day
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