Camelids and Wool

Where are camelids found

Predominately in the Andes

Where is wool found

Eurasia

Common Animal Fibres used in textiles

• Sheep

• Cashmere Goat

• Engora Rabbit

• Vicunia

• Alpaca

• Llama

What is looked at on animal fibres under a microscope

Cuticles/scales - overlapping surface scales (felting and fulling)

Cortex - main body of the fibre (gives wool strength + elasticity)

Crimp - natural waviness (tramps air for warmth, bulk + elasticity)

Fibre Diameter - measured in microns (affects softness/handle)

Staple Length - length of the fibre (affects spinning and yarn structure)

Hygroscopic - absorb water vapour while still feeling relatively dry (thermal comfort)

Dyes

Colourants applied to fibres to produce lasting color
- derived from plants, insects, and other natural sources

Mordant

Substances that help certain dyes bind to fibres and can also modify the resulting color
- alums and other metal salts
- not every dye requires a mordant

Plant-based dyes

• Indigo

• Chilca

• Quinual

• Molle

Indigo

Used to create deep blue dyes

Extracted from the leaves of the indigo plant through fermentation and oxidation

Used throughout the Andean region and can also create a range of blues and greens

Important because it is technically difficult to obtain and has a diverse geographic history

Chilca

A shrub that grows in the highlands, and its leaves are reused to produce shades of yellow and green

Quinual

The bark and leaves of the quinual tree were used to produce earthy brown and yellow tones

Molle

The berries from the molle tree, often called the Peruvian peppertree, were used to create pale yellows

Insect-Based Dyes, Red

Cochineal

Kermes

Madder

Cochineal

Produces truly intense reds that bind well to protein fibres

Became a prized colonial commodity

Backstrap looms

Allows for subtle control of tension and customizable weaving

Versatile, lightweight and can be adjusted to the weaver of which it is attached

Fully reversible and easy to carry with you

Woollens

Carded not combed (randomness traps air)

Uses shorter fibres

Heavier weight

Warmth, comfort and structure, added durability

Worsted

Combed not carded

One long smooth sausage of fibre

Finer fibres, denser and firmer

Holds a crease