Textiles Exam 4

Printing

dyeing in a localized patterned area

print paste

thickened dyes or pigments used for printing

methods of printing

screen, roller, heat transfer, digital

screen printing

print paste os forced through mesh areas of pritning screen by squeegee, hand screen or rotary screen.

Hand screen is used by ancient cultures still for small quantity or high fashion

printing t shirts

typically plastisol ink because it is stretchable and durable (but can’t be ironed or dry cleaned)

automatic screen printing

flatbed printing - fabric is moved to the screens on a wide rubberized belt

rotary screen printing

fabric is moved on a wide rubber belt under continually in motion rotary screen cylinders

efficient/mass production the most widely used method of printing textiles

roller printing

high speed process in which design transferred to fabric by copper engraved rollers

very fine delicate designs

high cost

long lead time for preperation

WET prints aging when dye is used -

exposing dye printed fabric to boiling steam, followed by rinses and drying(large water and energy consumption)

dry prints curing when pigment is used

fabric subjected to dry heat resin in the pigment

heat transfer printing

thermal transfer design is printed on transfer paper then pressed onto fabric at 400F

basic types of prints

Direct, discharge, resist

direct prints

design is printed directly onto a white cloth

discharge prints

fabric is piece dyed in a solid color, then the fabric is printed onto the fabric using bleaching agent

resist prints

pattern is printed on white fabric with a chemical, then fabric is piece dyed to obtain background color

same results as discharge prints

methods is reverse of discharge

craft or hand printing rather than a production basis

blotch prints

background color created by printing not piece dyeing, compared with resist print by piece dyeing

permanent finished

chemical change in fiber structure and do not change throughout life of a fabric

durable finishes

last throughout the life of the article, but become diminished after each cleaning

semi durable finishes

last through several launderings or dry cleanings can be renewable

temporary finishes

removed or substantially diminished the first time an article is laundered or dry cleaned

aesthetic finishes

change the appearance, drapability, and hand of fabrics

functional finishes

improve the performance properties of fabrics

fulling

finish for smoother more compact wool fabrics (permanent)

mercerization

improves dye affinity and luster in cotton fabrics

stone washing

makes garments softer and look worn and faded

acid washing

bleaching process that actually no acid is used for

cellulase finishes

enzyme to weaken cellulosic fiber

calendering

process of pressing or ironing a fabric at high speed and under high pressure

simple calendering

woven flat such as broadcloth, chino, and sheeting

overcalendering

excessive pressure - excellent luster - quality control issue - seriously weakened fabrics

glazed calendering

produces high sheen (polished cotton and chintz)

cire (wax) calendering

produces highly lusterous, wet look on fabric, cotton rayon polyester and nylon blends

embossed calendaring

a produces three dimensional design

could be similar with jacquard dobby woven but different in fabric construction

moire calendering

produces a wood grain design

resins finishing

chemicals applied as wet finishes

change physical and chemical attributes of fabrics

pretreatment process

cleaning operations to remove soil and additives from weaving or knitting

warp stretches (sizing agents) oils, waxes, other lubricants

Pretreatment for cotton, silk, and manufactured fibers,BOIL OFF

cleaning cotton, cotton blend, silk and manufactured fiber fabrics

pretreatment for wool

Scour - cleaning woolens and worsteds

desizing

enzyme solutions dissolves warp (yarn) starches

solvent scouring

dry cleaning to remove lubricating and softening oils for knit fabrics

carbonizing -

removing leaf and grass particles from woolen and worsted fabrics

singeing

burning off projected fibers or filament splinters

bleaching

fabrics may need to bleach because natural fabrics are not white

optical brighteners

substance that absorbs ultraviolet light and emits blue

optical brightener additives in household soups and detergents, whitening effect is renewed with each laundering

resin treatment and curing

PRECURING

curing the fabric at the textile finishing plant

postcuring

curing the resin on a completed garment

antimicrobial/antibacterial finishes

wool, cotton, moisture, oxygen, temperature ideally of microorganisms

inhibit the growth of bacteria and fungi

crease resistent finishes (CRF)

reduce wrinkling in apparel during wear

low resin add on

ironing needed after laundering

durable press -

provide ability to resist wrinkles or retain creases or pleats

heat setting for polyester

resin add on for cotton or polyester

flame resistant finishes

made from fibers that resist burning and modified manufactured fibers. not for hair protein fibers but for cellulose manufactured fibers

federal regulations with childrens sleepwear, carpets, mattresses,

SHortcomings - stiffnes, loss of drapability

soil types water soluble soils

can be dissolved and removed by immersion in water

soda

coffee

non water soluble soils

removed by the assistance of a detergent or soap and heat

fruit

vegetable

laundering

water combined with soaps or detergents and other additives for soil removal

cleansers

soaps - sodium of fatty acid’

detergent - synthetic detergents produced by chemical synthesis

additives

added to wash water, or contained in the detergent bottle

surfactants

bleaches

fluorescent brighteners

dry cleaning

articles are cleaned in an organic solvent cleansing fluid and tumbled in a machine

cleaning liquid is not water based

spotting

articles stained with substances (blood, rust etc) that are insoluble in dry cleaning solvent

moisture transport

ability to move moisture away from the skin

comfort cooling to keep in hot weather fabric must induce evaporation

fiber innovations WICKING

hydrophobic manufactured fibers, capable of transporting moisture

mircofibers

polysester, nylon, olefin,

coolmax

two sided fabric systems - push/pull effect

fabric made with different fibers on each side

effects of temp and humidity - difference between skin and outside the fabric. ability to transport moisture is dependent on temp and GRADIENT

waterproof breathable fabrics

transports moisture from inside out and air from the outside inward. Waterproof

temp humiduty gradient.

involved membrain

thermal insulation

principles of fabric/garment insulation is dependent on the ability of fabrics.

dead air - still air is perfect insulator

wetness - perspiration increases heat loss

textile resilience

nanotechnology

science of manipulating molecular structures

can permanently alter fiber properties

nanofibers

water and oil repellency and stain resistence

antistatic and antimicrobial

ultraviolet absorbant better moisture management

crossover properties with smart fabrics

more rapid dyeing and longer lasting color

mothproof

permanent chemical finish added at the time of dyeing.