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Coriolis effect
Northern hemisphere = clockwise (R)
Southern hemisphere = counterclockwise (L)
Deflection of winds/ water due to earth’s rotation
Gyres
Large currents produced by global wind patterns and the Coriolis effect
Marine Benefits of Currents
Migration
Food distribution
Oxygenation of ocean water
Distribution of heat
Marine Benefits of Tides
planktonic distribution
Reproductive cycles
Food distribution
Oxygenation
Crest
Top of wave
Wave
The undulation of oceanic fluid from a disturbance that moves along the surface of the water.
Trough
The bottom part of a wave.
Wave height
The vertical distance measured between the crest and the trough.
Wavelength
The horizontal distance between two consecutive crests or troughs.
White cap
Foam formed by strong winds blowing off the top of a wave.
Breaker
A wave that collapses and loses its shape when it approaches shallow water.
Fetch
The span of open water over which wind blows to generate waves.
Swells
Rolling waves with rounder crests and troughs formed of longer waves.
Tsunami
A long ocean wave produced by earthquakes or other seismic disturbances on the seafloor, also known as a harbor wave.
Tides
The rhythmic rising and lowering of ocean water caused by the gravitational attraction of the Sun and Moon.
High tide
deep
Low tide
Shallow
Diurnal tide
1 high, 1 low per day
Ex: Gulf of Mexico
Semi-diurnal tide
2 high, 2 low per day
Easy to predict, equal in height
Ex: East Coast
Mixed tide
2 high, 2 low per day
Tides not equal in height
Hard to predict
Tidal currents
Horizontal water movements where water periodically flows in one direction and then reverses in the opposite direction.
Flood current
Tide on way “in”, toward the coast
Ebb current
The movement of water traveling out away from the coast as the water level recedes. “Out”
Slack water
The period of calm with no current movement between flood and ebb
Tidal Range
Vertical distance between high and low tides
Spring tide
Greatest tidal range
Neap tide
least tidal range
Rip tide
Caused by two converging currents over an a regular surface