Barbarian Days (ch. 1-3) Themes

Culture of Surfing - theme

Language (Hawaiian Pidgin English, West Coast Slang), Aesthetics(Surf style), California Style Vs. ISland Style

Culture Of Surfing Diffusion Methods

Gidget Movies, Surf Magazines, Surf Music, Steve Painter(neighbor who got him into surfing) -- Surfing becomes pop-culture

Surf codes (in the water)

Social Structure in surfing

Surf clubs

Southern Unit & Hope Ranch Club

Understanding Waves - theme

Studying waves w/ Rich, Repetition and mimicry to learn, Bringing knowledge from other breaks, Bodysurfing knowledge translation, Study of geography and change over the seasons, Reliance on instincts

Violence of Waves - Theme

Waves are both goal and adversary, "no-one seems to be around when things go wrong", Ocean seen as "uncaring god", Knowing your limits (both physical and emotional), Surf spots having "different personalities), Realization that you can die,

Friendships vs Aloneness in Surfing - Theme

Will Beckett(Sardonic, almost aggressively relaxed, california oxymoron), Steve Painter(neighbor who got him into surfing), Dominic Mastrippolito(Popular cali friend, writes to him from hawaii), Rodney(Roddy) Kaulukuku(best friend and surf buddy in Hawaii), Glenn Kaulukuku (Roddy older brother, refuses ot move to Alaska), Ford Takara(honorary "3rd brother" of Kaulukukus), Feeling "floating between 2 worlds"

Race Relations in Oahu (Circa 1966)

Income segregation at middle schools, 13 y.o. white kid's perspective on Hawaii's schools (haoles being tiny unpopular minority, "unconscious whiteness"), public vs private school, Roddy and Glenn "code switching at school (normal vs pidgin english), "in Crowd"(Whites only 'gang')