year 11 textiles ATAR units 1, 2

spun staple yarns

made by twisting together short fibres to create a continuous length of yarn. typically natural grown from plants like cotton or wool.

characteristics of spun staple yarns and common end uses

fuzzy appearance, softer handle, less lustrous, may pill, good absorbency common uses include Tshirts, towels and knitwear

filament yarns

a textile yarn made from one or more long, continuous strands of filament fibres twisted together or bundled without twisting. (note silk is the only natural filament fibre)

characteristics of filament yarns/ examples

smooth surface, lustrous appearance, strong, reduced pilling, lower absorbency (synthetics) examples silk and polyester filaments used in activewear lining fabrics , evening wear.

decorative techniques used to enhance appearance

dyeing- the process of applying a permanent colour to a fibre, yarn or fabric in a dye bath (identical)

printing- is the textile art of adding a design via a pigment- based paint that allows for greater flexibility in colouration of patterned fabrics. can be applied to yarns and fabrics

chemical resistance in textiles

the ability of a fabric to withstand degradation, penetration, or staining when exposed to harsh chemicals, acids, bases, solvents, or bodily fluids.

aesthetic properties (fabric property testing)

pilling resistance

crease recovery

drape and stiffness

colourfastness to light

physical properties (fabric property testing)

tensile strength

abrasion resistance

dimensional stability

what is a sewing machine

is a mechanical or electronic device used to stitch fabrics, leather, or other materials together using a needle and thread.

what is a sewing machine used for

to join pieces of fabric, or other textiles together by created fast precise and durable stitches

key parts of a sewing machine what are these parts used for

needle- pierces fabric

presser foot- holds fabric flat and stable

hand wheel- manually raises and lowers the needle

feed dogs- automatically move and pull the fabric forward

reverse stitch lever- makes the machine sew backwards

bobbin- holds the lower thread in source

bobbin case- holds bobbin in place

spool pin- holds the main spool of thread

tension dial- regulates the tightness or looseness of the upper thread

spool of thread- provides upper thread source

what is an overlocker/ serger

specialised machine that trims the fabric edge, encases the raw edges with thread, prevents fraying, produces a professional finish

what is an overlocker/ serger used for

finishing seam allowances, constructing knit garments, professional garment construction, prevent fabric edges from unraveling

an overlocker does not replace a sewing machine but can add value to seam strengthening and edge finishing

construction textiles

the process of joining, shaping and assembling textile materials into a finished product using appropriate techniques, tools and machinery

construction is quality judged by accuracy, strength, durability, neatness, suitability for the product and fabric

examples of construction

seams, hems, darts, gathers, fastenings, overlocking, edge finishes.

manufacturing methods

seams, shaping techniques/ darts, closures/zips, finishing techniques/hems edges.

effect of acids, alkalis (bases) bleach, detergenton and solvents/ dry cleaning on cotton fibres

broken down by strong acids, resistant to alkalis, can be cleaned by bleach due to it’s resistance on alkalis, can be cleaned with strong detergents, not harmed by organic solvents so can be dry cleaned

effects of acids, alkalis, bleach, detergents and solvents on polyester

resistant to acids, resistant to alkalis, bleach can be used, strong detergents can be used and can be dry cleaned as organic solvents do not cause harm

fibre morphology and characteristics

refers to the physical appearance and structure of a fibre including. shape, surface texture, diameter, length, crimp

what does fibre morphology encourage

strength, comfort. durability, moisture absorption, appearance

wool appearance under microscope

longitudinal view, smooth surface rod like structure

cross sectional view, round circular, medulla may appear

wool reaction to burning

approach- shrinks away from flame

inside flame- smoulders and burns slowly

remove of flame- self extinguishing

residue- crushable black ash

smell- similar to burning hair

cotton microscopic appearance

looks like a twisted ribbon or a collapsed, flat, convoluted tube

cotton burn test rayon is similar

approach- doesn’t shrink away

inside flame- burns quickly

removal from flame- continues to burn

residue- light grey ash

smell- similar to burning paper

polyester burn test

approach- fuses and shrinks away from flame

inside flame- burns slowly, some melting, thick black smoke

removal- typically self extinguishing

residue- hard black bead

smell- sweet smell

classifications of fibres

manufactured - regenerated and synthetic

natural- animal, inorganic and vegetable

regenerated fibres

rayon and acetate

synthetic fibres

polyester, nylon, acrylic and elastomeric

animal fibres

wool, silk

inorganic fibres

metallic, asbestos, fiberglass

vegetable fibres

linen, hemp, cotton and rubber

fibre properties

aesthetics, durability, comfort and care

aesthetic properties

lusture- gloss sheen, caused by light reflecting on surface

drape- how the fabric hangs or falls

durability properties

abrasion resistance- ability to withstand rubbing wear or tear

strength- ability to resist breaking

comfort properties

absorbency- ability to absorb

elasticity- ability to return to normal shape after being stretched or compressed

thermal properties - ability to withstand and transfer heat

dimensional stability- inability to shrink or stretch

care properties

effect of chemicals- ability to withstand acids, alkalis and solvents

sun resistance- withstanding discolouration when exposed to sunlight

colour fastness- withstanding colour change after exposure to heat or water

shrinkage resistance- inability to contract

fibre structure

fibre properties are determined by the external, chemical composition and internal or molecular structure of the fibre

external structure aka fibre morphology

length, diameter, cross section and surface characteristics

chemical composition

what the fibre is made from e.g cotton is made from cellulose and wool is made from protein

internal structure/ molecular structure

a monomer is the basic unit of a fibre. polymerisation is the process of joining monomers to form a chain polymer

amorphous structure

a region that occurs when polymers are in a random arrangement and there are large distances between them resulting in a weak fibre. e.g wool and rayon

crystalline structure

occurs when polymers are packed closely together and in a parallel arrangement resulting in a stronger fibre. e.g nylon

cotton properties appearance and form

• Lustre: Naturally dull, but can be treated with a "mercerisation" finish to add a low sheen.

• Drape: Poor on its own, though fabric construction can improve how it hangs.

• Sun Resistance: Resists sunlight well (great for curtains/tents), but prolonged UV exposure causes yellowing and loss of strength.

• Colour Fastness: Easily dyed because it loves water (hydrophilic); any fading is due to the specific dye used, not the cotton itself.

cotton properties strength and durability

• Durability: Moderate to good, largely depending on how the fabric is woven.

• Abrasion Resistance: Varies by structure; twill weaves (like denim) offer very high resistance to rubbing.

• Tensile Strength: Relatively strong due to a highly crystalline (70%) fiber structure, and gets even stronger when wet.

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cotton properties thermal and comfort

• Absorbency: Highly absorbent, holding up to 27 times its own weight in water.

• Wearability: Smooth fibers mean it is non-irritating, hypoallergenic, and highly comfortable in hot weather.

• Thermal Behavior: A cool fiber that conducts heat and breathes easily; it ignites and burns quickly since it is made of cellulose.

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cotton properties elasticity and stability

• Elasticity: Very inelastic due to its high crystallinity; it does not bounce back if stretched out.

• Dimensional Stability: Holds its shape well because it lacks stretch, but if it does get pulled out of shape, it stays stretched.

• Shrink Resistance: Tends to shrink when dried after washing, though this is a result of fabric construction rather than the fiber itself (can be fixed with pre-shrinkage finishes).

cotton properties care and chemicals

• ironing: High heat resistance allows it to be safely ironed with a hot iron.

• Chemical Resistance: Easily damaged and broken down by strong acids (food acids do minimal harm if washed quickly).

• Cleaning: Highly resistant to alkalis (safe for strong detergents/bleach) and unharmed by organic solvents (safe for dry-cleaning).

rayon properties appearance and form

• Lustre: Naturally highly lustrous and shiny

• Drape: Good drapeability, meaning it hangs and flows beautifully.

• Sun Resistance: Resists sun damage well.

• Colour Fastness: Dependent entirely on the specific dyestuff used, rather than the fiber itself.

rayon properties strength and durability

• Durability: Fair overall, with the added benefit of resisting pill formation

• Abrasion Resistance: Generally fair, but requires gentle handling.

• Tensile Strength: Low to medium strength; critically, it loses 40–70% of its strength when wet, making it highly prone to stretching out of shape during washing.

rayon properties comfort and thermal

• Absorbency: Highly absorbent because it is an amorphous fiber; this structural layout also allows it to absorb dyes easily.

• Wearability: A cool fiber that acts as a good conductor of heat, making it excellent for summer clothing.

• Flammability: Highly flammable due to its cellulosic nature.

rayon properties elasticity and stability

• Elasticity: Poor elasticity due to its high percentage of amorphous regions

• Dimensional Stability: Poor; garments easily lose their shape

• Shrink Resistance: Poor shrink resistance; it will shrink significantly more than cotton fabrics.

rayon properties care and chemicals

• Chemical Resistance: Easily damaged by acids and may completely disintegrate when exposed to strong alkalis.

• Bleach: Generally resistant to bleaching agents, but will be attacked and damaged at high concentrations.

polyester properties appearance and form

• Lustre: Variable; depends entirely on the fiber's cross-sectional shape and whether delustering agents are added.

• Drape: Good overall, but varies by construction; for example, polyester microfibre has exceptional drape.

• Sun Resistance: Excellent resistance to sunlight degradation

• Colour Fastness: Excellent color fastness because it resists fading

polyester properties strength and durability

• Durability: Excellent overall performance, making it one of the toughest textile fibers.

• Abrasion Resistance: High resistance to surface rubbing and wear.

• Tensile Strength: Relatively strong due to its highly oriented molecular structure and highly crystalline regions; its wet strength is identical to its dry strength.

polyester properties comfort and thermal

• Absorbency: Poor absorbency, which can lower comfort since moisture and sweat cannot easily escape (frequently blended with cotton to fix this).

• Thermal Insulation: A poor conductor of heat but an excellent insulator

polyester properties elasticity and stability

• Elasticity: Relatively elastic due to its high percentage of crystalline regions, meaning it stretches and recovers well.

• Dimensional Stability: Excellent stability; it holds its size perfectly and resists warping.

• Shrink Resistance: Excellent shrink resistance; it retains its original shape and size perfectly after washing.

polyester properties care and chemicals

Chemical Resistance: Highly resistant to most common chemicals, including acids, alkalis, and organic solvents.

Washing & Ironing: Very easy-care fiber that dries quickly and requires minimal to no ironing

plain weave properties and end uses

plain weave simplest weaves, weft yarns pass over one warp yarn then under warp alternating e.g poplin

• smooth handle, poor drape, good durability

• shirting, summer dresses, children’s clothing

twill weave properties and end uses

weft yarns pass over two or more warp yarns and then under one. most durable weave e.g denim

• good durability and abrasion resistance

• , home furnishings, work clothes and jeans

satin weave properties and end uses

the warp yarn goes over four weft yarns and under one. e.g satin

• high lustre, excellent drape, snagging may occur

• formal wear

jacquard weave properties and end uses

may be combinations of plain, twill and satin weaves. e.g damask

• hard wearing, soft to medium handle, good absorbency

• home furnishings, table cloths

pile weave properties and end uses

includes plain or twill weave and extra warp or weft yarns over the base e.g velveteen

• lustrous, good absorbency

• apparel and home furnishings

crepe weave properties and end uses

created by random arrangements of floats that achieve an all over pebble effect e.g wool crepe

• medium drape, low strength limited durability

• apparel and home furnishings

the value fabric testing

• Quality & Consistency: Matches bulk production to approved samples and fiber blends.

• Safety & Compliance: Meets laws like garment flammability and toxic dye bans.

• Predict Performance: Proves how material handles real-world wear and washing.

• Save Money: Catches shrinkage or weak seams early to avoid costly recalls.

what properties are test for and how are tests carried out

Strength & Durability

• Tensile Strength: Pulling fabric until it snaps using a Tensile Tester.

• Abrasion Resistance: Rubbing fabric to count cycles before a hole forms (Martindale).

• Pilling Resistance: Tumbling fabric to check for fuzzy fiber balls.

Comfort & Breathability

• Air Permeability: Measuring airflow speed through the weave.

• Moisture Management: Testing liquid absorption speed, wicking, and drying time.

Aesthetics & Appearance

• Drape: Analyzing fabric folds over a pedestal (Cusick Tester).

• Crease Recovery: Measuring the angle fabric bounces back after being crushed.

Dimensional Stability

• Shrinkage: Measuring dimensions before and after laundering.

Differences in Tests of Commonly Known Fabrics/Fibres cotton

tensile strength when dry- moderate

tensile strength when wet- increases gets stronger ‘

crease recovery- poor wrinkles badly

shrinkage- moderate/ high fibre compacts

air permeability- moderate

Differences in Tests of Commonly Known Fabrics/Fibres wool

tensile strength when dry- poor

tensile strength when wet- decreases/ gets weaker

crease recovery- excellent

shrinkage- very high felts/ matts

air permability- very high

Differences in Tests of Commonly Known Fabrics/Fibres polyester

tensile strength when dry- excellent

tensile strength when wet- remains unchanged

crease recovery- excellent

air permeability- low

how fabric testing helps to fabric selection

• End-Use Match: Pairs fabric traits to needs, like wicking for activewear or abrasion resistance for upholstery.

• Care Instructions: Dictates accurate clothing labels by checking for shrinkage and color bleeding during laundry.

• Cost vs. Value: Guides material swaps, like replacing fragile silk with durable, high-drape polyester.

environmental impact of the textiles industry

• Water: one cotton top uses so much water.

• Oil: Synthetics (polyester) use crude oil.

Pollution & Waste

• Chemicals: Toxic dyes pollute freshwater.

• Microplastics: Washing synthetics releases marine microfibres.

• Landfills: Millions of tonnes dumped/burned yearly.

Carbon Footprint

• Emissions: Up to 10% of global carbon.

stages of a products life cycle

raw material extraction and processing

1- extraction

2- processing of synthetic fibres

manufacturing/ packaging and distribution

3- fabric production

4- finishes

5- apparel production

product use

6- consumer use of product

end of life

7- manufacture from renewable or recycled materials

8- safe disposal of textile products

environmental impacts of a product in each stage/ cycle

raw extraction and processing

• displaces land of crops, leaches nutrients from soil, wastes water and energy

• uses petroleum and oil, toxic byproducts, chemical pollution of air and water

manufacturing/ packaging distribution

• uses finite resources, dust, fumes

• toxic byproducts, handling health hazards

• waste from cut offs, chemical residue, plastic packaging waste

product use

• packaging waste, excess of changing fashion, chemical care

end of life

• reduced amount of landfill

• increase in landfill

fundamentals/ elements of design

line- guides the eye connects points

shape- 2d shape/ enclosed area

form- 3d or illusion of 3d depth using shading etc

texture- tactile or visual

colour/ value- tints, shades, contrasts

principles of design

proportion- size and scale of different elements

balance- symmetrical or asymmetrical of size shapes etc

rhythm- repetition of various elements

emphasis- focal point captures viewers attention

constrast and harmony- constrast unexpected change in visual elements Harmony similarities and repeated design features are consistent

unity- composition that has completeness of design

non woven fabric examples

felt

Structure of a fabric

refers to how a fabric is made by the way the fibres and yarns are held together to make a fabric.- ie woven, knit, non woven.

 

pattern markings

grainline - parallel to selvedge straight line with arrow

cutting line- where to cut unbroken black line

seamline- broken line typically 1.5cm

notches- joining pieces diamond shaped

circles, squares, triangles- additional construction

darts- intake of fabric sometimes circles or broken line

centre front and back

hem allowance