Chemical Exfoliation Service and Procedures

Comprehensive vocabulary flashcards covering the definitions, product chemistry, peeling depths, safety guidelines, and service essentials of professional chemical exfoliation.

Chemical Exfoliation

The use of chemical solutions to dissolve or reduce dead skin cells and desmosomes, promote cell turnover, and induce desquamation of the stratum corneum.

Desquamation

The process of shedding, peeling, or coming off in scales of the stratum corneum.

Desmosomes

Intercellular protein structures that bond skin cells together, which are loosened and broken down by chemical exfoliants.

Superficial Peel

A light chemical exfoliation that impacts the skin up to $0.1\,\text{mm}$ ($.0040"$) into the epidermis, typically utilizing glycolic, salicylic, or mandelic acid.

Medium-Depth Peel

A chemical peel impacting all of the epidermis down into the papillary layer, typically using trichloroacetic acid (TCA) of $35\%$ or greater or pyruvic acid ($40\%-60\%$) under medical supervision.

Deep Peel

A medical-level peeling procedure performed in a physician's office requiring patient sedation that affects the epidermis into the reticular dermis, commonly utilizing phenol or carbolic acid.

Free-Acid

The active, unneutralized acid portion of a chemical peel formulation that determines exfoliation activity in conjunction with pH and buffering.

Poly-Hydroxy Acids (PHAs)

A generation of acids, including lactobionic acid and gluconolactone, that are compatible with clinically sensitive skin conditions such as rosacea and atopic dermatitis while enhancing the skin barrier.

Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

A group of water-soluble acids naturally occurring in foods that possess a hydroxyl group in the alpha carbon position and must be neutralized before removal.

Glycolic Acid

An alpha-hydroxy acid derived from sugar cane that penetrates the epidermis more effectively than other AHAs due to having the smallest molecular size.

Beta-Hydroxy Acid (BHA)

A lipophilic, oil-soluble acid (salicylic acid) that penetrates sebum within hair follicles, provides anti-inflammatory benefits, and acts as a keratolytic.

Keratolytic

An agent that dissolves keratinized proteins and dead skin cells upon application.

Jessner's Peel Solution

A blended peeling solution containing salicylic acid, resorcinol, lactic acid, and ethanol, used for superficial to medium-depth chemical peels.

Azelaic Acid

A non-AHA, non-BHA ingredient derived from wheat, grains, and skin-resident yeast that provides anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties for treating rosacea and acne.

Blended Acids (Designer Acids)

Custom manufacturer-specific acid combinations formulated to achieve targeted results, such as pairing salicylic acid with low-level TCA and kojic acid.

Actinic Keratosis (AK)

An abnormal, pre-cancerous skin growth that regular chemical exfoliation treatments can help reduce.

Hydroquinone

A depigmenting ingredient that lightens hyperpigmentation by decreasing the number and activity of melanin-producing melanocytes.

Kojic Acid

A depigmenting agent derived from fungi and fermented byproducts of rice wine and soy sauce that helps prevent melanocytes from overproducing melanin.

Occlusive Skin Protectant

A barrier product, such as petroleum jelly, applied to delicate areas around the nostrils, lips, and eyes to protect them from chemical exfoliant contact.

Neutralizer

An alkaline solution or gel paste, typically composed of sodium bicarbonate and water, applied to deactivate and stop the action of an AHA chemical peel.

Wood's Lamp

A diagnostic skin analysis device that utilizes black light to illuminate skin conditions, levels of oiliness, and underlying pigmentation.

Connect

The first Service Essential, focused on establishing rapport, greeting the client warmly, previewing records, and building professional credibility.

Consult

The second Service Essential, involving the Observe and Analyze steps to examine skin needs, uncover client goals, review contraindications, and obtain consent.

Create

The third Service Essential, which involves performing the treatment procedure to deliver predictable, functional, and pleasing results while maintaining client comfort and infection control.

Complete

The fourth Service Essential, covering the Teach step, post-care instruction delivery, product recommendations, client feedback, and booking future treatments.

Contra-Action

An adverse, negative skin reaction occurring during or after a service, such as chemical burns, intense erythema, itching, or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Contraindication

A medical condition, skin disease, or infection (such as active herpes simplex, eczema flare-ups, or Accutane use) that strictly prohibits performing a treatment.

Performance Rubric

A structured assessment document that identifies defined criteria against which an esthetician's procedural skills and performance levels can be measured objectively.