Preparation + Preservation Setting the Stage For Haircolor Longevity

What does a clarifying shampoo remove?

Surface buildup such as styling resins, waxes, and oils that coat the cuticle.

What is the first stage of purification?

Removing surface contaminants .

What do clarifying shampoos use to detach resins, waxes, and oils from the cuticle?

Higher-activity surfactants and a slightly elevated pH.

Why does removing surface contaminants help the haircolorist assess the hair?

It exposes the surface of the fiber so the haircolorist can accurately assess porosity and elasticity.

Why is surface cleansing alone insufficient for some contaminants?

Some contaminants are bonded within the hair fiber, where surface cleansing along can’t remove them.

What are among the most significant variables in haircolor chemistry?

Minerals and metal ions.

How does water quality vary?

Water quality varies drastically by location.

What does municipal water often contain, and what is this collectvely known as?

Municipal water often contains moderale levels of calcium and magnesium, collectively known as water hardness.

What does well water frequently contain in high concentrations?

Iron, copper, manganese, and sulfur.

What may swimming pools introduce?

Chlorine and copper-based algaecides

What happens to these ions over time?

Over time, these ions penetrate the cuticle and bind to the protein structure of the cortex.

What can calcium and magnesium form on the hair?

Insoluble salt deposits that coat the cuticle and may clog the porous pathways of the hair.

What color problems can calcium and magnesium deposits cause?

Uneven dye absorption and resistant gray coverage.

How do iron and copper act in oxidative reactions?

These transition metals act as catalysts in oxidative reactions.

What is a catalyst?

A catalyst is a substance that increases the rate of a chemical reaction without being consumed in the process.

What happens to hydrogen peroxide in the presence of copper or iron?

Hydrogen peroxide decomposes uncontrollably fast.

What can happen when hydrogen peroxide decomposes too quickly?

It can release a sudden surge of oxygen.

What may that sudden burst of oxygen do to oxidative dye percursors?

That burst may oxidize oxidative dye percursors at or near the surface of the hair before they have sufficient time to diffuse into the cortex and fully develop

How can this affect color deposit, durability, and the appearance of the roots?

The result can be weaker color deposit, reduced durability, and roots that may appear brighter or warmer than the midlengths and ends.

What can rapid peroxide breakdown increase?

The formation of free radicals.

What can free radicals do to keratin and disulfide bonds?

These reactive species may attack keratin and potentially weaken disulfide bonds, potentially leading to avoidable damage.

Which residues are common catalysts for this reaction ,and which tends to be especially reactive?

Copper and iron residues are common catalysts for this reaction,and copper tends to be especially reactive.

How may this reaction show up during lightening services?

Excessive heat, faster-than- expected breakdown, and a higher risk of breakage.

Can heat be a normal part of oxidation?

Heat can be a byproduct of oxidation.

What changes in an oxidative haircolor or lightener mixture may be a clue that copper or iron residues are present?

The mixture heats up unusually fast or becomes thin and liquefies on the hair?

Why does the page recommend a pre-service chelating treatment?

These deposits are often not removed with water or shampoo alone, so a pre service chelating treatment is recommended to bind and lift them out before the service .

What should the haircolorist use to manage the risk from metal ions?

Chelation

What is a chelating agent, and what does it do?

A chelating agent is a molecule that binds to and sequesters metal ions effectively “handcuffing” them so they can be rinsed away.:

What are three common ingredients in chelating ingredients?

EDTA, phytic acid and biodegradable amino-acid based agents

How does chelation affect the metals and the hydrogen peroxide in the color formula?

Chelation neutralizes the catalytic activity of metals, helping to ensure that the hydrogen peroxide in the color formula works closer to a the intended rate.