Fashion History - Midterm Review

Parti-colored

sewing together sections or different colored fabrics within one garment

Canions

extensions from end of trunk hose to knees/slightly below that made in same/contrasting color

livery

Chemise

undermost garment, cotton and white

Houpplande

loose, belted overgown of the 14th and 15th centuries, typically featuring long, wide sleeves, dagged (decoratively cut) edges, a full-length skirt, and often a fur lining

Braies

Underdrawers, called braies (brays), were loose-fitting linen breeches fastened at the waist with a belt

Bowl crop

Hair style resembling an inverted bowl around the top of the head

Page boy

rounded bob style haircut with smooth perimeter and face to face fringe

Dandy

term used for man excessively fond of and overly con¬ cerned with clothes

Ditto suit

Men’s suit from the 18th century in which the same fabric is used for pants, jacket, vest, and sometimes cap

Ruff

Wide, separate collar used during the second half of the 16th century and the first decades of the 17th century; often made of lace and stiffly starched

Bombast

stuffing made of wool, horse¬ hair, short linen fibers called tow, or bran

Chatelaines

ornamental chains worn at the waist from which were suspended useful items such as scissors

Spencer

short jacket worn by both men and women in the 19th century that ended at the waistline; made with sleeves or sleeveless

Coat of arms

Coat of arms terminology includes key heraldic concepts such as tinctures, etc. distinguished who was who

Dagging

Edges of garments, hanging sleeve flaps, and hats were often cut into pointed or squared scallops

Bagpipe sleeve

14th-15th century - sleeve widens from shoulder into a large hanging pouch and narrows into a tight cuff

Long wide medieval sleeve

12th century - Extremely long, wide sleeves that could cover the hands and drag while walking

Herigaut sleeve

13th century - long, wide sleeve with slit below the shoulder through which the arm emerged, leaving sleeve hanging behind

Poke sleeve

14th -15th century - Oversized tube-like sleeve seen on houppelandes; hangs dramatically from the arm.

Dagged sleeve

14th-15th century - sleeves edges cut into decorative points, scallops, or leaf-like shapes. seen on houppelandes

Bishop sleeve

Early 19th century - especially before 1840 - Full sleeve gathered into a fitted cuff at the wrist, later versions remained full below the elbow and puffed at the wrist.

Leg of mutton sleeve

Huge puff at the shoulder with a narrow lower arm

Boot cuff sleeve

Early 18th century - coat sleeves with large turned back cuffs that could reach the elbow

Batwing sleeve

Modern variation - 20th century - Deep armhole extending toward the waist, creating a wing-like shape

Sericulture

silk production process, including how the silkworm was bred, raised, and fed

14th century Women

plucked hair to have high hairline, large forehead, fair hair color, mouthwash, use of some cosmetics

15th century Men

Distinctive haircut - bowl crop/page boy, clean shaven, hose, jeweled collars, daggers, belt

15th century women

English styles less revealing than French, frock, bagpipe sleeves, hennin, canvas to display wealth

Military

Knights charged with left side first, with shield and weapon in right hand

plates had to overlap left over right so the blows would slide off

Northern renaissance 1500-1600 CE

William Lee applied for patent for a knitting machine, but it was denied by Elizabeth 1. Went to France.