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Topics 1-4 including case studies
Coastal environments definition
Coats are dynamic environments, shaped by the interaction of marine, sub-aerial, and aeolian processes, within a closed system.
Why are Coastal environments significant?
As 50% of the world’s population lives within 150km of the coast, and the ten most populous cities reside next to the coast.
Isolated system definition
No inputs/outputs and largely theoretical
Closed system definition
Inputs and outputs confined within a sediment cell, with limited exchange
Open system definition
Exchanges both energy and matter with the surroundings.
Sediment Cells definition
Selection of a coastline in which characterises a closed distinct system
How many sediment cells are there?
There are 11 sediment cells in England and Wales
What is a feedback loop?
An accruing change in a system that triggers further changes
Positive Feedback loop
When one action increases the original action, that creates a feedback loop
Negative feedback loop
When one action decreases the original action, creating a feedback loop
When is dynamic equilibrium achieved?
When an environment is eventually maintained within a ecosystem if negative or positive feedback loops aren’t greater than the equilibrium
What is wind as a source of energy along a coastline?
its a primary source of energy formed by the contrasting air pressures offshore the coast, that transports sediment and deposits, along with eroding a coastline overtime.
How are waves caused?
By prevailing/offshore winds over a large fetch distance towards a coastline
What is a destructive wave?
When a wave erodes at a greater rate than depositing material along the beach, as it generates more backwash than swash
What is a constructive wave?
When a wave deposits at a greater rate than eroding material along the beach, as it generates more swash than backwash
What is a current?
Permamenmt or seasonal movement of water, that transports and redistributes energy along a coastline that is formed by tides, winds and thermohaline circulation
What are the types of currents?
Longshore currents, are formed by the movement of water and sediment parallel to the coast, Rip currents carry water away from the shore, Upwelling currents move cold water to the surface
What are the Tides?
They are the periodic rise and fall of sea levels caused by gravity of the moon and the sun
When do high tides occur?
when eustatic levels reach the local max
When do low tides occur?
when eustatic levels reach the local minimum
What are the significance of tides?
They impact how far waves reach up a beach and what parts of a cliff are exposed to hydraulic action
What are spring tides?
Occurs near new and full moons when they create larger tidal ranges
What are neap tides?
Occurs near one quater and third quarter moons when they create smaller tidal ranges
What is wave refraction?
the bending and distortion of wave fronts when waves approach an uneven coastline
How does wave refraction occur?
When waves approach a coastline contain headlands and bays and the shallowe waters slow the waves speeds due to friction. As a result waves travel faster ind deeper water cause the wave in the front to bend. Due to this, waves become more concentrated around headlands and more dispersed around bays. Which orthogonal lines represent this direction of wave energy.
What are the characteristics of high energy coastlines?
High wave frequencies, height and prevalent destructive waves, often correlated with strong prevailing winds and a long fetch.
Consequences of high energy coastlines
Lower sediment stores and deposition, higher erosional processes, and more frequent storm patterns
What are the characteristics of low energy coastlines?
low wave frequencies, height and prevalent constructive waves, often correlated with little wind and a short fetch, where there are less frequent storms.
What are the sources of sediment along a coastline?
coastal erosion of landforms, rivers, streams, estuaries and offhshore and biogenic sediment sources
What is a coastal cell budget?
Its the balance between inputs and outputs of sediment
What is a positive cell budget?
Inputs of sediment exceeds outputs, where stores increase and depositional landforms develop
What is a negative cell budget?
outputs of sediment exceeds inputs, where stores decrease and erosion becomes more frequent
What is a balanced cell budget?
Where processes are at a dynamic equilibrium and limited changes occur
What are differences between marine and sub-oriel processes
Marine processes operate along a coastline and are connected to the sea, that is infeuceced by waves currents and tides, sub-aerial processes operate along a exposed are of land that results in weathering, massmovemnt and run off
What is marine erosion?
Its the wearing away of rocks and sediment by waves
What is hydraulic action?
HA forces water and compressed air into cracks within rocks that exert repeated pressure that widens cracks over time and eventually destroying it.
What is wave quarrying?
WQ is large scale more powerful HA that exploits lines of weakness to detach and remove rock
what is abrasion
AB is when rocks and sediment transports and is carried by waves and collide against each over, corrosion is the process where rocks are colliding along a cliff
What is attrition?
When sediment/rocks collide with one another becoming more rounded over time
What is Solution
when soluble rocks and minerals dissolve within seawater gradually chemically eroding the rock over time
What factors effect marine erosion?
Fetch, sea depth
Why does sea depth effect marine erosion?
because it influences ave refraction which leads to steeper or shallower waves that effects the energy of waves due to friction.
Why does fetch effect marine erosion?
As it allows a longer distance for the waves to accumulate energy due to the more time provided.
What is lithology?
refers to the characteristics, composition, strength, resistance and permeability of rock that responds differently to types of erosion, that results in differing impacts and differential erosion the may occur due to variations in the resistance of rock
What is marine transportation?
The movement of sediment by waves.currents and transferring stores of sediment there are 4main types traction, saltation, suspension, solution
what is transportation by traction?
Large heavy rocks that roll along a seabed or are dragged
what is transportation by saltation?
smaller sediment rocks that bounce or hop along the seabed
what is transportation by suspension?
when fine particles or silt are carried within the water
what is transportation by solution?
when minerals and chemicals are dissolved within the water
What is longshore drift?
littoral drift occurs when sediment is travelled along a beach at a zig zag direction often at an angle, when prevailing winds approach a drift aligned beach; gradually transporting sediment.
What is mass movement (sub-ariel processes)
the downhill movement of weathered rock, soil, or material under the influence of gravity, that transfers the material from the top of the cliff to the base
what are the four types of movement?
Creep, flow, slide and fall
What is soil creep
the very slow downhill movement of soil downhill due to the repeated wetting and drying or repeated cooling and heating
What is Soliflucation?
The slow movement of waterlogged soil over an impermeable frozen layer of soil
What is mudflow?
the rapid movement of waterlogged sediment down a slope
what is a landslide?
when massmovment of rock and soil travels downhill very rapidly, often triggered by heavy rainfall, and erosion due to the changes in stability.
What is rockfall?
When pieces of rock detach and fall under gravity
What is rotational slump?
Occurs when material moves downhill along a curved slip surface that rotates backwards as it travels.
Landslides
are also the general term for material moving down a slope
What is weathering?
the breakdown or decay of rock in situ that weakens rocks promoting erosion
What are the three types of weathering?
Mechanical, Biological, Chemical, weathering
What is mechanical weathering?
The break down of rocks into smaller pieces without changing chemical composition
What is freeze thaw weathering?
When water from rain enters cracks within rocks, and as the temperature decreases, it freezes and expands when it thaws exerting pressure on the surrounding rocks, widening the cracks around the rock
What is salt crystalization weathering?
When salt water enters rocks cracks and evaporates leaving salt behind the rock, as the crystals accumulates it exerts pressure
What is Wetting and Drying weathering?
when some rocks absorb water and expand, they tryout and shrink, repeatedly expanding it weakens material over time due to the decaying of rock
What is Biological weathering?
when living organisms contribute to the breakdown of rock
What is plant weathering ?
When roots grow into rocks and as a result absorbs the materials widening the rocks
What is Chemical weathering?
when the change of a rock chemical status as the result of chemical reactions weathers the rocks
What is carbonisation weathering?
when carbon dioxide dissolves into rainwater to form weak carbonic acid that especially reacts with calcium carbonate in limestone dissolving the rock
What is oxidisation weathering?
when oxygen reacts with iron minerals and oxides form chaining the chemical composition within the rock
What is runoff?
the flow and movement of water created over land towards the coastline due to the influence of gravity
TOPIC TWO- As coastlines develop
What is a landscape?
the overall appearance and chracter of an area
what is a landform
the specific physical feature created by coastal processes
what are the types of coastal erosion processes?
Hydraulic action, wave quarrying, corrosion, abrasion and solution/corrosion
How do headlands and Bays form?
Alongside disconcordant coastlines, where coastal erosion processes erode soft rock at a faster pace than hard rock, which bays form at the soft rock and headland form at the sides of a bay. Wave refraction emphasises this
When do disconcordant coastlines occur
when bands of soft and hard rock run at an angle to the coast, differential erosion form headlands and bays due to alternating geology.
When do concordant coastlines occur
when bands of soft and hard run at parallel to the coast, as a result forming fewer headlands and bays
What are wave cut platforms?
erosional landforms that develop when waves attack the base of the coast
What is the process that produces a wave cut platform
When hydraulic action erodes the base of a cliff, most at high tide, this then undercuts the rocks surface forming a wave cut notch, concentrated erosion then deepens and enlarges the notch, further undercutting. Overtie, prolonged erosion creates cliff retreat as material is washed away, leaving a wave-cut platform, usually not smooth.
How does cliff retreat occur?
when preloved erosion and weathering weakens the cliff as a result the edge moves inland repeatedly
What is the shape of a cliff shaped by?
Geology, rock hardness and the arrangement of strata
How do steep cliffs develop?
When rocks are relatively resistant to erosion, or in high energy environments
What is rock strata?
the hardness within the composition of rock
What is Scree?
the collection of loose fragments. of rocks and the accumulation at the base of a cliff or steep slope, that form when weathering and gravity causes pieces of rock to break away, where it is left at the foot of a cliff
What are Geos?
Narrow steep sided inlets inside a cliff, that from when waves exploit a weak joint or crak along a wall of rock, which is expanded when erosion continues
what are blowholes?
when erosion continues upwards through a cave or geo until it reaches the land above, forming through hydraulic action
what are arches?
A headland which has been eroded over time, where a cave has expanded below, which opposite sides meet
what is a stack?
when an arch collapses leaving a column of hard rock isolated from the shore
what is a stump?
when the low remmant of rock is left after a sea stack has eroded further and parts collapsed
What order does the formation of Geos/caves, Arch, stacks and stumps look like?
Geos/caves, Arch, stacks and stumps
What is an example of a headland landform?
Durdle door, Dorset England
What is coastal morphology?
the shape and physical form of the coasts, including slopes headlands and bays
what is deposition?
the process which sediment is dropped as the energy decreases to the point it cannot longer be transported
what is a beach?
a depositional landform that is made from accumulated sediment which is dynamic via the environment
what is beach accretion
the enlargement of a beach as sediment is deposited
what is beach excavation?
the removal of beach sediment and material
What are swash and drift aligned beaches?
the process that classifies beaches according to how waves approach the coast
what is a swash aligned beach?
when waves approach parallel beach, which influences and aids wave refraction, as shallower waters help concentrate parallel waves, Longshore drift then occurs according to wave direction
what is a drift aligned beach?
when waves approach at an angle, and sediment, up a beach from longshore drift