Esthetician

A specialist in the cleansing, beautification, and preservation of the health of the skin on the entire body, including the face and neck.

Esthetics or Aesthetics from Greek word

Aesthetikos meaning perceptible to the senses

THE SKIN ANALYSIS PROCESS

DETERMINE THE APPROPRIATE TREATMENT AND PRODUCTS,DETERMINE THE CAUSES OF SKIN CONDITIONS AND CONTRAINDICATIONS, GIVE A BETTER UNDERSTANDING OF HOW TO HELP CLIENTS

Evaluating Skin Type

EVALUATING THE T-ZONE, (VISUALIZATION, PALPATION,

AND CONSULTATION)

skin type

a persons genetic skin attributes determined by genetics, and ethnicity,

why does skin change over time

because of cell metabolism and oil/lipid production slows down as we age.

What is skin type based on

how much oil is produced in the follicules from the sebacious glands and the amount of lipids found between the cells.

normal skin

oil is balanced, hydration is balanced, follicle size very small. Appearance is uniform luminosity, no or rare blemishes, feels soft smooth texture, good elasticity.

how is normal skin treated

maintenance and prevention treatments, four steps: cleanse, exfoliate, nourish, protect. most common in 20s and 30s. Normal skin becomes drier with age.

combination skin

oil is moderate to high, hydration is good to dehydrated, follicle size is larger in tzone than cheeks and sides of face. Appearance: buildup of dead skin and oil in pres around nose but dry or flaking outside of tzone may have some blemishes or comedones.

how is combo skin treated

cleansing and regular exfoliation, water based products, avoid rough exfoliation. oil and hydration balance can disrupted by hormonal or environmental influences

oily

oil is moderate to high, hydration is good to dehydrated, follicle size is moderate to large, appearance is shiny comedones and blackheads or blemishes may be present. feels thick and firm or uneven due to congestion

how to treat oily skin

regular cleansing and exfoliation and hydrating with water based products. treatments to balance oil production.

what causes oily skin

overproduction of oil to genetics, hormonal changes, medication, stress, or environmental factors such as comedogenic products, over exfoliation can create oilier skin as sebaceous glands work to increase surface dryness.

dry

minimum oil, hydration minimal, follicle size difficult to visualize fine pores, appearance dull lack of luminosity flaking or blotchy. underproduction of oil

how to treat dry skin

oil based products to provide protection of the acid mantle and increase barrier function

melanocyte

a specialized, melanin-producing cell derived from the neural crest that is primarily located in the basal layer (stratum basale) of the skin's epidermis, as well as in hair follicles, the eyes (uvea), inner ear, meninges, bones, and heart. protects cells from uv radiation

Fitzpatrick scale 6 types

The Fitzpatrick skin type (or phototype) describes a way to classify the skin by its reaction to exposure to sunlight.

Fitzpatrick type 1 (0-7)

Pale white skin; blonde or red hair; blue, gray, or green eyes. It always burns, is highly sensitive, and never tans.irish, Scottish, Welsh, and Scandinavian (e.g., Norwegian, Swedish).

fitz type two (8-16)

fair skin; light hair and eyes. It burns easily and tans minimally. English, German, French, Russian, and lighter-skinned Northern/Eastern Europeans.

fitz type 3

(Score 17–25): Medium to olive skin. It is sun-sensitive, sometimes burns, and develops a slow light-brown tan.talian (Northern), Spanish (Northern), Greek (Lighter), French (Southern), and some East Asian heritages (e.g., Fair-skinned Chinese, Korean, Japanese)

fitz type 4

(Score 25–30): Light brown or olive skin. It is minimally sensitive, burns minimally, and builds a moderate brown tan.Italian (Southern/Sicilian), Greek, Spanish, Portuguese, Mexican/Mestizo, and many East/Southeast Asian heritages (e.g., Chinese, Japanese, Filipino, Vietnamese).

fitz type 5

(Score 31–35 or over 30): Brown or deeply pigmented skin. It is insensitive, rarely or never burns, and tans well and deeply.Indian, Pakistani, Middle Eastern (e.g., Egyptian, Saudi Arabian), North African, and darker-skinned Hispanic or Latino heritages

fitz type 6

(Score over 35): Deep brown-black skin. It is insensitive, never burns, and is heavily pigmented. (e.g., Nigerian, Ghanaian, Kenyan), African-American, Afro-Caribbean, and Aboriginal Australian heritages.

GLOGAU SCALE

a clinical classification system developed by Dr. Richard Glogau to evaluate the severity of facial photoaging (premature skin aging caused by ultraviolet/UV exposure).

rubin scale

(created by Dr. Reva Rubin) is a classification system used in dermatology and esthetics to assess skin texture, aging, and the depth of sun damage (photodamage). Unlike scales that measure skin color or tanning reactions, the Rubin scale focuses on structural changes and texture. for Superficial chemical peels and antioxidants

rubin scale level one

Level I (Epidermal Change): Damage is limited to the outermost layer of the skin (epidermis).

• Characteristics: Minor pigment irregularities, mild freckles, age spots, superficial texture changes, and little to no wrinkles at rest or motion.

• Recommended Treatments: Antioxidants and superficial chemical exfoliation.

rubin scale level 2

Level II (Papillary Dermis): Damage extends into the upper layer of the dermis.

• Characteristics: Actinic keratosis (rough, scaly patches from sun exposure), early dyschromia (discoloration), and increased fine or expression wrinkles.

• Recommended Treatments: Retinoids and medium-depth chemical peels

rubin scale level 3

Level III (Reticular Dermis): Severe damage reaches deep into the lower (reticular) dermis.

• Characteristics: Leathery texture, severe solar elastosis (broken/degraded elastic fibers), deep and irregular furrows, and marked, confluent pigmentation spots.

• Recommended Treatments: Laser resurfacing and advanced clinical or surgical procedures

glogau scale type 1

Type I: Mild (No Wrinkles)

• Estimated Age: 20s to 30s

• Characteristics: Early photoaging, minimal or no wrinkles, mild pigment changes, no age spots, and few-to-no keratoses (rough skin growths). Makeup is rarely needed.

glogau scale type 2

Level II (Papillary Dermis): Damage extends into the upper layer of the dermis.

• Characteristics: Actinic keratosis (rough, scaly patches from sun exposure), early dyschromia (discoloration), and increased fine or expression wrinkles.

• Recommended Treatments: Retinoids and medium-depth chemical peels.

level 3 glogau scale

Type III: Advanced (Wrinkles at Rest)

• Estimated Age: 50s and older (typically 40s–65)

• Characteristics: Wrinkles are visible even when the face is completely relaxed, prominent discoloration and age spots, visible small blood vessels (telangiectasias), and visible keratoses

glogau scale level 4

Level III (Reticular Dermis): Severe damage reaches deep into the lower (reticular) dermis.

• Characteristics: Leathery texture, severe solar elastosis (broken/degraded elastic fibers), deep and irregular furrows, and marked, confluent pigmentation spots.

• Recommended Treatments: Laser resurfacing and advanced clinical or surgical procedures

epidermis outer layer

Role: Acts as a tough, waterproof protective barrier against pathogens, UV radiation, and environmental damage. has sublayers

stratum corneum

Stratum corneum: Outermost layer of flat, dead, shedding skin cells.

Stratum granulosum

Stratum granulosum: Granular layer where cells begin to flatten and produce waterproofing proteins, loses organelles

Stratum spinosum

Stratum spinosum: Spiny layer that provides strength and houses immune-defending Langerhans cells

Stratum Germinativum stratum basale

stratum basale: Deepest layer containing dividing stem cells, melanin-producing melanocytes, and touch-sensing Merkel cells. layer where new cells are produced mitosis

Stratum lucidum:

Stratum lucidum: Clear, thin layer found only in thick skin like the palms of the hands and soles of the feet.

dermis middle layer of skin

Provides structural support, elasticity, and nourishment; makes up about 90% of skin thickness. contains collagen and elastin, blood and lymph vessels, nerve endings, and appendages

layers of the dermis

papillary: upper layer, reticular layer: deeper thicker

papillary layer of dermis (upper layer)

Upper layer with loose connective tissue forming dermal papillae (fingerprint ridges).

reticular layer of the dermis (bottom layer)

Reticular layer: Deeper, thicker layer filled with dense collagen bundles

Hypodermis / Subcutis (Deepest Layer) of skin

The innermost layer composed of fat (adipose tissue) and loose connective tissue. insulates the body to conserve heat.

• Absorbs shock and cushions underlying muscles and bones.

• Stores energy in fat cells.

Keratinocytes

Make up about 95% of the epidermis. They produce keratin and transform into dead corneocytes as they move upward.

Langerhans Cells:

Located mainly in the stratum spinosum. They act as immune cells to protect against infections and foreign invaders.

markel cells

Located in the stratum basale. They connect to nerve endings and are responsible for light touch sensation.

organelle

a specialized subunit within a cell that performs a specific, vital job, much like an organ does in the human body

fibroblast

the primary active cell of connective tissue that synthesizes the extracellular matrix (ECM) and secretes structural proteins like collagen and elastin.

Mitosis:

• The technical term for the process where a single cell divides into two identical daughter cells.

skin lipids

naturally occuring fats,oils,waxy compounds that form the skins protective outer barrier and maintain hydration

types of skin lipids

ceramides, cholesterol, free fatty acid, sebum lipids

dry skin

exfoliation no more than once a week

oxidative stress

Oxidative stress is an imbalance between free radicals (reactive oxygen species) and antioxidants in your body, where free radicals outnumber antioxidants and begin to damage cells, proteins, lipids, and DNA. [1, 2, 3]