CH6 ~ CH11: Woven Fabrics Exam 3

Define this term loom:

Device used for weaving fabric

Define this term shedding:

The raising and lowering of different warp yarns

Define this term picking:

Inserting a filling yarn into the shed

Define this term beating:

Using the reed to beat the filling yarn into the completed cloth

Define this term warp:

Lengthwise yarns, parallel to selvage

Define this term weft (or filling):

Crosswise yarns perpendicular to selvage

Define this term salvage:

Self or finished edges running lengthwise along the fabric

Define this term floats:

Forms when a yarn crosses over more than one yarn at a time running in the opposite direction (1 over 2 under, 1 over 2 under)

Define this term interlacing:

Where warp or filling yarn changes position form one side of the fabric to the other side.

Top weight fabrics meaning

For the top half of the body (e.g., blouse, shirt)

Bottom weight fabrics meaning

For the bottom half of the body (e.g., pants, skirt)

What is a fabric count?

Number of warp and filling yarns in 1 sq. inch of fabric

• e.g., 100 wraps, 50 fillings

• 100 X 50 or 150

• the x is not multiplying it is for the expression and to be added together!

What is fabric balance?

Ration of warp yarns to filling ration

• 10:50 = 2:1 (unbalanced)

• 100:100 = 1:1 (balanced)

What is a balanced weaves?

• The number of warps = the number of fillings (1:1 ratio)

• Warps and fillings are the same size, show equally on fabric surface

• Fabric has a plain, flat surface (unless a finish is applied)

What is an unbalanced weaves?

• A plain weave with a larger number of warps than fillings

• Cross-wise or ridge

• Fillings are completely covered by warps

• Larger filling yarns —> larger crosswise rib

• Slippage - filling exposed when warp wears away

• Finer ribs —> more drape able

• Larger ribs —> stiffer fabrics, have more body

What is on grain?

90 degrees to the warp?

(this was not in notes, #gotitoffofgoogle)

What is off grain?

Bow and skew

When angle is not at 90 degrees to the warp

List four basic weaves:

• Plain weave

• Plain weave variations

• Twill weave

• Satin weave

What are the characteristics of plain weaves?

• Simplest of weaves

• One warp raised, one warp lowered, ect. as filling yarn is inserted 1×1

• Maximum number of interlacing (not floats)

• No technical face (front) or back unless print or finish is applied to one side only

• The least expensive weave

• Used for top weight (shirtings, blouses)

What are the performance characteristics of plain weaves?

• Excellent abrasion resistance

• High tensile strenght

• Low tearing strength/good dimensional stability

• Poor elasticity

• Snag resistance

• Light weight

• Less absorbent

• Ravels less

• Poor resilience

• Low luster

• Poor drape

• Good body

What are the characteristics of rib weave?

• A plain weave with a larger number of warps than fillings

• Cross-wise rib or ridge

• Fillings are completely covered by warps

• Larger filling yarns —> larger crosswise rib

• Slippage — filling exposed when warp wears away

• Finer ribs —> more drape able fabric

• Larger ribs —> stiffer fabrics, have more body

List the performance characteristics of rib weaves?

• Better strength

• Poor elasticity

• Poor abrasion resistance

• Poor dimensional stability

• Less absorbency

• Less resilience

• Better/more body

• Poor drape

• Better shape retention

What are the characteristics of basket weaves?

• Balanced structure (2-to-2, 3-to-3, 4-to-4)

• 2 or more adjacent warp yarns are controlled by the same harness

• 2 or more filling yarns are placed in the same shed

• floats are formed, fewer interlacing’s

• Less wrinkle

• Greater flexibility

• Possibility of snagging

List the performance characteristics of basket weaves

• Strength relate to fabric count and structure (Low count = Poor strength) (Tightly woven = Strong)

• Poor dimensional stability

• Poor abrasion resistance

• Better elasticity

• Wrinkle isn’t a problem

• More absorbent

• Better resilience

• Drape is better

What are the characteristics of twill weaves?

• Has a diagonal ridge or “wale” in the fabric

• Each warp (or filling) floats across two or more fillings (or warps); interlacing’s progress by one to the right or left (Ratios: 2/1, 2/2, 3/1)

• Direction of wale: right-hand twill — wale slants to the right, Left-hand twill — wale slants to the left

• Angle of the diagonal: a.) 45 degree - average direction, b.) 63 degree - steep angle, c.) 27 degree - reclining twill, d.) the steeper the twill, the higher the count, the more durable the fabric

• Uneven surface hides soil

• Formation of floats, fewer interlacing’s

• Wrinkle recovery

• Higher fabric count (durable fabric)

• Soft, pliable hand

• Used in bottom weight (jeans, slacks)

What is right-hand twill weaves?

Wale slants to the right

What is left-hand twill weaves?

Wale slants to the left

What is even-sided twill weaves?

• 2/2 twill (raise 2 warps, lower 2 warps)

• Warp and filling exposed equally on both sides of fabric; reversible

What is uneven twill weaves

• Unbalanced

• 2/1 twill (raise two warps, lower one)

• Warp yarns are predominant on the fabric face

• Face and back of the fabric is differentnt

List the performance characteristics of twill weaves:

• High tearing strength, tensile strength

• Average abrasion resistance

• Better elasticity, flexibility, resilience, than plain weaves

• Improved air and water resistance

• Hides soil

• Better drape, luster than plane weave

What are the characteristics of satin weaves?

1. In a progression of 2 to the right or left

• Each warp floats over 4 filling yarns (4/1), interlacing’s with the 5th

• Each filling floats over 4 warp yarns (1/4), interlaces with the 5th

• Sometimes each yarn floats across 7 yarns and interlaces with the 8th (7/1 or 7/1)

2. Long floats create luster

3. Fewer interlacing’s

• High fabric count

• Wrinkle resistance

• Pliability

• Raveling

• Snagging

4. Fabrics have a definite face and back

What is warp-faced satin weaves?

Sateen

What is filling-faced satin weaves?

A variation of a satin weave where the filling(weft) yarns dominate the face of the fabric (got from google)

What are the differences between satin and sateen weaves?

Satin is made out of filament yarns, while sateen is made from spun yarns

List the performance characteristics of satin weaves

• High tearing strength

• Low tensile strength

• Poor abrasion resistance

• Excellent flexibility, resilience, elasticity

• Poor dimensional stability

• Easily snags

• Unravels the most

• Good wind resistance

• Good thermal retention

• Most lustrous

• Smooth, silky hand

• Excellent drape

• Soil resistant

• Seam slippage can be a problem

Compare basic weaves: plain, twill, and satin weaves

Plain weave: The number of warps = the number of fillings (1:1 ratio)

Twill weave: Has a diagonal ridge or “wale” in the fabric

Satin weave:

• In a progression of 2 to the right or left

• Each warp floats over 4 filling yarns (4/1), interlacing's with the 5^th

• Each filling floats over 4 warp yarns (¼), interlaces with the 5^th

• Sometimes each yarn floats across 7 yarns and interlaces with the 8^th (7/1 or 1/7)

What is a basic weave?

Basic weaves are Plain Weaves, Twill Weaves, and Satin Weaves

What is a complex weave?

• Woven figures: Are made by changing the interlacing pattern between the design area and background

• The interlacing pattern is controlled by the warp yarns’ position during weaving

What are the characteristics and examples of Slack tension weaves?

• Two warp beams used: one set of warps held at regular tension, the other set help at slack tension

• As filling yarn is pushed into place, slake tension warps crinkle/buckle to form puckered strips in warp direction

• Crinkled strip may have slightly larger yarns; stripe may have 2x1 basket weave

• Made of cotton as a summer fabric

• No ironing required

uses:

• Uses for summer fabrics made out of cottons

• No ironing required

What are the characteristics and examples of Dobby weaves (& piqué weaves)?

• Small scale, geometric design is woven into the fabric

• Made on Dobby Loom (Dobby attachment)

• Pattern is usually created by floats

Uses:

• Apparel Furnishings

What are the characteristics and examples of momie weaves (crepe weaves)?

• Grainy texture on surface of fabric created by irregular interlacing

Uses:

• Dresses

• Blouses

• Suits

• Home

• Furnishings

What are the characteristics and examples of extra yarn weaves?

• An extra set of warps &/or fillings are woven into the fabric to create color patterns

• The extra yarn floats across the back when not appearing on the fabric face and usually cut

Uses:

• Dress, shirts, ect

What are the characteristics and examples of jacquard weaves?

• Larger-figured designs, woven on a jacquard loom

Example:

Damask

• Satin floats on a satin background

• Flattest looking jacquard weave

• Used for apparel and furnishings

Brocade

• Satin, twill floats on a plain, ribbed, twill, or satin background

• Floats more varied in length than damask

• Several colors usually used

Tapestry

• 2 or more set of filling warp and filling are used, complicated

• Face warp never woven on back, back filling does not show on fabric face

• Used in upholstery, handbags

• Heavy fabric

What are the characteristics and examples of double weaves?

• Different appearance from on side the other; sometimes reversible

• Heavier than most other weaves

• Made from 3 or more sets of yarn

Double cloth (5 sets of yarns)

• Two fabric layers woven one on top of the other, 5th in the warp direction interlaces with both layers

Double weave (4 sets of yarns)

• Two fabric layers that periodically switch position from top to bottom

• Fabrics are separate between interlocking points and form ‘pockets’

What are the characteristics and examples of pile weaves?

• Made of 3 sets of the yarns: 1.) a warp yarn, 2.) a filling yarn, 3.) and extra warp or filling yarn

• The extra yarn forms loops or cut ends on the surface of the fabric

• Pile ½ inch high or less

• Fabric requires special care (not to flatten/crush pile)

Examples

Terry cloth

• Made of uncut pile weave with loops

• Made of spun yarns

• Good absorbency

• Uses for towels

Velveteen

Coduroy

Velvet

Panne Velvet

• Pile is laid down in a single direction

• Made of filament yarns

• Highest luster, best drape, among the file weave

• Soft and smooth hand

What is velveteen?

• Made of cut pile: shearing and napping (or brushing)

• Made of spun yarns (made of short staple fibers)

• More body, less drape matter

• Uses for jacket or bottom weight

What is velvet?

• Made of cut cut pile: shearing and napping (or brushing)

• Made of filament yarns

• Smooth, lustrous, good drape

• Uses for dreses and tops