Fashion and costuum

period 1

Archaic Period

800 – 480BC

Classical Period

480–323 BC

Hellenistic Period

323–146 BC Alexander the Great founded and conquered cities far beyond Greece

Materials ancient Greece

• Linen is made from flax

• The Greeks also had wool

• Silk: only from the 4th century BC, in the Hellenistic period

Chiton: ancient Greece a simple linen undershirt (tunic)

Ancient greece

Johann Joachim Winckelmann not Steeling , first archaeologist and art historian

Ancient Greece

Size ratio’s: left by Polykleitos

Ancient greece peplos a woollen dress for women

• For married women, and coloured

• Sometimes stitched

• The more layers, the richer

Ancient greece Himation Used to cover the hair if a woman was at the market, or worn as a cloak

ancient greece Chlamys

A sturdy woollen cloak for men. More of a travelling cloak

ancient Rome

53 BC to 476

Ancient Rome Strophium: a cloth worn over the breast, basically a bra

Ancient Rome Loincloth: worn on the bottom half, by both women and men

Ancient Rome Tunic (tunica): the basic undergarment

Ancient Rome Dalmatica: developed from the tunic. Fore men It is similar to what the pope would wear

Ancient Rome Palla a cloak for women, but for richer women

Layers (from the inside out)

under tunic → stola → palla

Ancient Rome The toga A man with status wore a toga

You can't put it on by yourself, it is super big

Ancient rome toga pura or toga virilis

an avarge toga for citizens , without decorations and left undyed in natural colours of white or grey tints

Ancient rome toga candida

a bleached white toga for people applying for higher office

Ancient Rome toga praetexta

A toga of natural colours with purple bands at the edge, for magistrates and priest, but also for young boys and girls that have not entered puberty

Ancient Rome toga purpurea

a entirely purple toga that represent status worn by the emperor

Ancien rome toga picta

in bright collors and richly embroidered, sometimes stiff wiht gold treats. this tyoe of toga is costume worn by triumphant warlords but also by emperors and consuls during such events as circus festivals

Ancient rome Toga pulla

Adarkuly dued toga, worn in times of mourning

West Roman Empire

394-467

East Roman Empire

394- 1453

Start of Medieval Europe

5th -11th century

Constantine the Great

late Roman emperor Constantine freed the Christians

Ancient rome Colour and status dyes

1. 
   

• Oak (bark and galls): brown, grey or black

• Onion (skins): yellow to orange

• Weld: yellow

• Madder: red

• Woad: blue

• Indigo: blue, imported from India and more expensive than woad

snails -Purple

Byzantine culture

394 -145 The church was very important. Christianity was the main religion

Byzantine culture art

The art changed. The body became a sin and needed to be covered up

Bodies in the art are unrealistic, because the body was sin. Humans are not important, God is

People were completely covered up

Byzantine Tunic (tunica): allone For rich people it was made of linen or silk

Byzantine headpeace

Byzantine Tablion

a piece of rich material, purple or gold, worn at the front or back

Byzantine Brocade

a textile in which a golden (or silver) thread is woven in with other materials. It is expensive

byzantine Superhumeral: a really rich necklace (collar) for the empress

Feudal system

a power structure to secure stability

Feudal system Hierarchy

a king , bishop, noblemen, knights (soldiers), clergy, workmen, peasants

Crusades:

groups of Christians travelled to the East and tried to convert people there to Christianity

Accentuation

ear;y middle ages

1050-1350

Long garments

Long hair

Early attempts to fit clothing more closely to the body

early middel ages

• Taking in the side seams

• Cutting the sides open and tying them with lacing

• Gusset

• Gores

tailering exist since the 12th

Chainse: an under-tunic, made of linen or silk

It is an undergarment. On top they wore a cotte, likely lined

braie or bracca early pants version

sumptuary laws

they instructed differences: issued by law what to wear keeping everyone in rak in society

Middel ages chainse: under tunic (fine pleated linen or silk) worn under outergarment

Middel ages Gores: They are wedge-shaped (triangular) pieces added to give the skirt more width.

Middel ages cotte likely lined split at the front fore men

Middel ages bliaud outer garment with train lacing at the side or the back long, hanging sleeves v shaped neck soft material, not lined. split at the front/back fore men

escarpins low, slip on shoes women

middel ages chemise undershirt men

The 13th century

The bliaud develops into a surcot, worn on top of a cotte

The surcot has lots of colour and patterns

gusset riangled or diamond shaped piece of fabric

trips mideval age sandel

touret

crespine

chaperon

dyes collor chloting where a status symbol

only for nobility: purple crimson, scarlet and white

mi-parti coller patern

Late Middle Ages & Early Renaissance

ca. 1350 - 1500

14th century

plague epidemic

slow decline of church power

merchant classes

Chain mail was made to go over undergarments, with straight-cut doublets

late middel ages

Suits of armour or plate armour

fitted perfectly to the soldier, with a fitted double (also called a pourpoint) underneath

late middel ages

Doublet: jacket-like, built up from around 30 pieces. Broad shoulders, narrow hips, long, with slits at the sides, very fitted. All pieces were quilted

Jaque (upper garment, derived from the doublet) various sleeve constructions possible

late middel ages

Poulaines: crazy pointy shoes, really long

late middel ages

Cotardie (cotehardie): a fitted underdress with an open neckline

above Cotardie

Surcot: the upper layer, with open armpits

late middel ages

Houppelande: the upper layer. A heavy, voluminous garment, pleated, in wool, velvet or brocade, with a high waist. (Pillow) It looks pregnant. For rich people. Worn over the cotardie, perhaps with fur

late middel ages

Corset- tightly fitted low cut dress, with a laced split in the middle front

late middel ages

Surcot ouvert: an opened surcot, with low cuts at the sides

late middel ages

Cotardie (for men): an upper garment that replaced the surcot

late middel ages

bourrelet (horned headdress, horns filled with wool /cotton)

kruseler (construction of several veils with frilled borders)

late middelages

pomander: a silver or gold ball with small segments, in which to put aromatic material. Worn as a necklace, as perfume

Burgundy

ca. 1420-1480

Burgundy

Hennin a pointy, triangular headdress. It can be cut off at the top (truncated)

Burgundy

Doublet and jaque: hardly any difference anymore

bugundy

Robe worn as outerwear derived from houppelande but more slim and compact combined with double

burgundy

Robe for women: over-frock with V-neckline, worn over corset/cotardie

horizontal separation (seam)

A meaningful technical step involving the robe

burgendy

Giornea a loose, hanging cloak with open sides

burgendy

Black was the new red

begin renesanse Textiles

Two toned changeant effect fabric, moiré

begin renesanste textiles

Pomegranate (also artichoke) motive in fabric design in brocades for example

1430s to the 1480s

Hennin: A tall, cone-shaped headdress, worn usually with a veil. Flat-topped (truncated) versions existed