Textiles exam 1

Rayon has a ________ degree of polymerization than cotton, making it _________*

Lower, weaker

Lower DP=

shorter molecules

Higher DP=

Longer molecules

Short molecules= ______ fibers

weak

long molecules= ______ fibers

strong

Pilling is more likely to occur on fabric made from _________ yarns*

staple/short

Pilling is less likely to occur on fabric made from _________ yarns*

filament

a fiber that is 9 denier is ____ tex*

1

fabric from textured yarns are ________ than from flat filament yarns

bulkier

______ fibers yield softer fabrics

finer

As the diameter of fiber increases, fabrics made from that fiber will have a _____ hand*

rougher

As the diameter of fiber decreases, fabrics made from that fiber will have a _____ hand*

softer

An object/garment has color other than black because…*

Selective refraction of visible light

Range of visible light is__________ nanometers to human eye*

380-780

Range of visible light is__________nanometers in a machine*

400-700

raime is the most common _______ fiber after linen

natural, bast

POY=*

Partially oriented yarns

FOY / FDY =*

fully oriented / fully drawn yarns

most common filament yarns are POY or FOY/FDY?*

POY

________ oriented yarns must be used in texturing*

partially

The weight in grams of 9000 meters of fibers (filament yarns)*

Denier

Denier =*

9000 x [ g / m ]

The weight in grams of 1000 meters of fibers (yarns)*

Tex

Tex=*

1000 x [ g / m]

tex is 9x ______ than denier*

thicker

a fiber is 9 denier, therefore it is ___ tex*

1

a 9 m long fiber weighs 1mg. The denier is______*

1= 9000 [0.001/9]

a 9 m long fiber weighs 1mg. The tex is______*

1.1= 1000 [0.001/9]

dtex=*

0.1 tex

__ tex = _ dtex*

1, 10

_ tex = _ denier*

1, 9

1 mg = ___ g*

0.001

Number of hanks (Skeins) of 840 yards if yarns weighted one pound*

cotton count

Number of hanks of 560 yards if yarns weighted one pound*

wool count

higher yarn count= ____ yarns

finer

____ yarns are cheaper

thicker

yarn count=*

hanks / total lbs

Cotton——1 hank = ______ yards*

840

Wool——1 hank = ______ yards*

560

$ / yd =*

($ / hank) / (yd / hank)

Fibers with high length/width (aspect ratio) have good….

flexibility

_____ strength is used for fibers and yarns

tensile

_____ strength is used for fabrics

breaking

The ability of fibers to hold each other together in yarn making process

cohesiveness

Cohesiveness affects yarn…

spinnability, strength, smoothness/luster

cohesiveness is affected by

scale, crimp, twist

the mass per unit volume of a fiber

density

steps of spinning manufactured fibers*

liquification, extrusion, solidification

types of spinning*

melting, dissolving (dry or wet spinning)

amount of light reflected by fiber

luster

high luster cross sectional shapes

round, trilobal

low luster cross sectional shapes

kidney, serrated

Stretching filament before it is completely hardened*

drawing

drawing increases*

orientation of polymers

more oriented fibers= better*

strength, chemical resistance

random arrangement of polymers=

amorphous area

organized arrangement of polymers (3 dimensions)

crystalline

organized arrangement of polymers (1-2 dimensions)

orientation

drawing increases*

orientation, tenacity

drawing decreases*

elongation

_______ yarns have lower strength, higher stretch, higher bulk, softer hand, lower luster, better absorbency, more pilling, are cheaper*

spun

______ yarns have higher strength, lower stretch, lower bulk, stiffer hand, less absorbency decreased pilling, higher luster*

flat filament

cotton, kapok, linen, ranie, jute, hemp, sisal, yucca, wool, silk*

natural

viscose/rayon, acetate, triacetate, lyocell, azlon

regenerated

viscose/rayon, acetate, triacetate, lyocell, glass, metalic, nylon, olefin, saran, acrylic, polyester, aramid, vinyon, melamine*

manufactured

nylon, olefin, saran, acrylic, polyester, aramid, vinyon, melamine, modacrylic, spandex*

synthetic

polyester, nylon, acrylic, olefin, acetates

thermoplastic

BCF*

Bulk continuous filament

texturing is done to improve…*

bulk, resiliency, stretch, aesthetics

texturing modifies fiber_____*

shape

______ introduces coils, loops, twists, or crimps to flat filaments*

texturing

heat and moisture, false twist (air jet), crimping (knit-de-knit, gear crimping)*

texturing methods

fibers with ____ orientation and crystallinity have high tenacity, low elongation, increased luster, low absorbtion, high chemical stability, low dye affinity, are rigid, worse hand*

High

fibers with _____ orientation have low tenacity, high elongation, are pliable, less lustrous, good absorption, low chemical stability, high dye affinity, good hand*

Low

Ability of a bone dry fiber to absorb moisture in the air

moisture regain

moisture regain %=*

(moist wt - dry wt) x 100 / dry wt

Ability of a fiber to take water into itself

absorbency

moisture travels along surface, away through fabrics (capillary effect)

wicking

water loving, absorbent*

hydrophilic

water fearing, not absorbent

hydrophobic

oil loving

oleophilic

the stretching or lengthening of a fiber, yarn, or fabric

elongation

point of elongation where item breaks

breaking elongation

elongation %=*

(extension / original) x 100

the percentage of return from extension

recovery

recovery %

(recovered / extension) x 100

_______ recovery occurs instantly after a stress is removed

elastic

_______ recovery occurs slowly after elastic recovery

creep

resistance of a fabric to a rubbing effect

abrasion resistance

______ resistance combines resiliency tenacity, and yarn/fiber construction

abrasion

Color + complimentary color =

white

things needed to see color

light, material, eye

a good match under one or a few light sources but not under all light sources*

metameric match

a good match under all light sources. also called unconditional match

nonmetameric match

▵E < 1 =*

no obvious color distance

color is ___ dimensional

3

black to white / lightness

value

cast / red, yellow, blue, green, etc.*

hue

saturation / brighness

chroma

systems which attempt to classify or describe colors in an orderly, logical manner to facilitate color specification

color order systems