Waves

Wind-Generated Waves

Waves caused by surface wind blowing over water; characterized by varying height, length, and period.

Capillary Waves

Tiny ripples restored by surface tension.

Gravity Waves

Larger waves that are restored by gravity.

Swell

Wind-generated waves that have moved away from their source; characterized by long wavelength and uniform pattern.

Tidal Waves/Tides

Waves caused by the gravitational pull of the moon and sun on oceans; produce high tide and low tide cycles.

Diurnal Tide

Tide with one high and one low tide per day.

Semidiurnal Tide

Tide with two high and two low tides per day.

Tsunamis

Waves caused by seismic activity such as underwater earthquakes; characterized by long wavelength and high speed.

Rogue Waves

Unexpected, extremely high waves caused by nonlinear wave interactions.

Internal Waves

Waves that occur below the surface due to density differences in stratified water.

Wave Shoaling

Change in wave height, speed, and wavelength as waves move into shallower water.

Surf Zone

Area where waves break as they approach the shore.

Spilling Breakers

Gentle slope waves where energy dissipates gradually.

Plunging Breakers

Steep slope waves with concentrated energy causing strong erosion.

Surging Breakers

Very steep shore waves that surge up and create maximum impact at the coast.

Refraction

Bending of waves as they enter shallow water at oblique angles.

Diffraction

Bending of waves around obstacles or through gaps, creating shadow zones of low wave energy.

Reflection

Waves bounce back from steep cliffs or seawalls.

Longshore Transport (Littoral Drift)

Movement of sand and sediment along the coast due to waves hitting at an angle.

Tidal and Storm Surges

Extreme water levels caused by tides or storms, amplifying wave energy at the coast.

Erosion

The process by which waves erode cliffs, headlands, and rocky shores.

Deposition

The accumulation of sediment to form beaches, spits, and barrier islands.

Wave Height (H)

The vertical distance from a wave's trough to its crest.

Wave Period (T)

The time taken for two successive crests to pass a fixed point.

Wave Frequency (f)

The number of waves passing a point per unit time.

Wave Speed (c)

The distance a wave crest travels per unit time, calculated as wavelength divided by period.

Wave Steepness (S)

The ratio of wave height to wavelength, with waves breaking when steepness exceeds 1/7.