Chapter 3 Introduction to Stabilizers

The term stabilizer refers broadly to any product that can be used to help structure the fabric.

Waistbands of skirts and pants and waistline facings need firmness and stability so they fit firmly to the body.

Any area of the garment where buttons and buttonhole are applies needs to be stabilized.

Neckline and armhole facings need interfacing or stabilizing tape to prevent them from stretching in the stitching process.

Hems of jackets are often stabilized if the jacket is not underlines.

The following fabrics are commonly used to stabilize garments: organza, hair canvas, cotton batiste, netting, china silk/habotai, satin, wigan, curtain linings, flannel, batting, broadcloth, wool flannel, cotton flannelette, buckram, or two layers of the garment fabric.

Thinsulate, batting or sew in fleece are underlining options that add warmth without adding bulk.

Textured weft is a woven/fusible interfacing that blends well with textured fabrics.

Two popular knit interfacings are tricot (crosswise stretch only) and all-bias 8-way stretch interfacing.

Don’t stitch twill tape around shaped seams, such as necklines and armholes, because it isn’t bias cut and flexible enough to use there. It can be used for slightly curved seam lines such as a curved waistline of a skirt or pants.

Fabric selvage makes an excellent sew-in stabilizing tape for sheer fabrics.

Tricot tape will not give the firmness required to hold the waistline or the top edge of a strapless bodice firmly to the body.

An underlining is another layer of fabric or interfacing applied to the entire garment fabric or certain sections of the fabric to add structure or even warmth without bulk.

An underlining can also be referred to as a backing.

Seam tapes are used to structure garments in light to medium weight fabrics because they will not add bulk.

The fabric and stabilizer weights need to be compatible and equal to each other.

Always choose a stabilizer that needs the same care as the garment fabric.