1. Fibers to Yarns to Fabrics(3)

Fibers to Yarns

The cotton flower is a vital source of fibers used in the process of spinning cotton yarn, which is fundamental to the production of cotton fabric widely used in clothing and household textiles.

Spools of Yarn

• Display an array of natural colors that showcase the beauty of raw cotton fibers.

Lecture Objectives

1. Identify various categories of fibers utilized in the textile industry.

2. Discuss the unique properties and descriptions that differentiate different fiber types.

3. Describe the complex fiber to yarn conversion process applicable to both natural and man-made fibers.

4. Recognize diverse methods of fabric construction that contribute to the fabric’s end-use.

5. Explain the timing and relevance of dyeing processes within textile production, including pre-and post-production dyeing.

Historical Background

Fibers - Yarns - Textiles: The journey of textile development can be traced back to the earliest known yarn created by Neanderthals over 40,000 years ago in France, which emphasizes human innovation in using natural materials.

• Fibers: Defined as thin threads that can be sourced either naturally or synthetically, often resulting from a combination of both approaches.

• Textiles: Materials produced from fibers by employing various weaving, knitting, or felting techniques.

Significant Milestones in Textile History:

• Yarn: Approximately 45,000 BCE marks the creation of the earliest yarn.

• Weaving: Began around 10,000 BCE indicating the start of sophisticated textile production.

• Felting (nonwoven process): Documented since 600 BCE.

• Knitting: Emerged around 500 CE, introducing new garment-making techniques.

• Industrial Non-Wovens: The advent of Industrial Non-Wovens occurred in 1930, marking a significant technological advancement in fabric production.

Categories of Fibers

Natural Fibers

• Animal (Protein) Based: Includes wool, silk, alpaca, and cashmere, sourced from animals.

• Plant (Cellulose) Based: Derived from plant sources such as cotton, flax, and hemp.

Man-Made Fibers

• Artificial Fibers: Derived from natural sources and transformed into fibers (e.g., rayon, derived from cellulose).

• Synthetic Fibers: Chemically created from fossil fuels or minerals (e.g., polyester, nylon, spandex).

Testing Fibers

• Numerous tests exist to identify different fiber types; a common test includes the burn test, which can be performed at home to differentiate between fiber types based on how they react to flame.

Fiber Properties and Attributes

• GREIGE GOOD: Unprocessed and unfinished fabrics or yarns in their natural state, critical for understanding quality issues.

Fiber Length

• All natural fibers, excluding silk, exist as staple fibers; initial forms of synthetic fibers are filaments before potentially being cut into staple fibers.

Fiber Descriptions

Types Based on Attribute:

• Length: Classified as staple or filament.

• Shape: Includes serrated, square, flat, trilobal, or hollow core shapes.

• Surface Finish: Can be smooth, rough, or grooved, affecting tactile properties.

• Longitudinal Configuration: Features like straight, twisted, coiled, or crimped structures.

• Physical Properties: Attributes include bulk, texture, luster, and the overall hand of the fiber, which describes its feel.

• Diameter: Varies by fiber type and influences the fabric's final aesthetics and performance.

Microscopic Views

• Different fibers can be explored microscopically to examine their sizes and shapes, particularly cotton, silk, and various synthetic fibers, providing insights into their properties.

Natural Fiber to Yarn

Natural fibers are spun into yarn, which then may be woven or knitted into fabric. The dyeing process may occur either pre- or post-fabric production, influencing the color and quality of the final product.

Fiber to Yarn Process

1. Carding: Aligns fibers in preparation for spinning, improving consistency.

2. Combing: Removes shorter fibers to achieve a smooth and refined finish.

3. Spinning: Twists fibers together to form a stronger and more durable yarn suitable for textile production.

Preparing Natural Fibers for Spinning

• Batch Production: Employs apparatus like drum carders to create a flat mass (bat) from carded fibers.

• Not every fiber undergoes carding; notably, fibers like linen and silk utilize different preparation methods.

Man-Made Fiber to Yarn

• Filaments are extruded and, if required, may be cut into staple fibers before the spinning process begins.

Yarn Characteristics

• Twist Direction: Yarns can be twisted in a "Z" direction (right) or "S" direction (left).

• Twist Measurement: The tightness of twist is gauged by TPI (twists per inch).

• Ply: When two or more spun yarns are twisted together, it is identified as a "ply".

• Yarn Count: A numeric expression that indicates the size of the yarn and its density.

Novelty Yarns

• Different types of novelty yarns include:

  • Bouclé Yarn: Characterized by loops along the yarn length to create texture.

  • Chenille Yarn: Made with short pieces of novelty yarn twisted perpendicularly, giving a plush feel.

  • Crépe Yarn: High twist yarns that result in a lively and crinkled appearance.

  • Marl Yarn: Composed of contrasting colors to create visual interest.

  • Metallic Yarn: Often fragile and prone to breakage, adding sparkle to textiles.

  • Variegated Yarn: Features changes in color along the length of the yarn, adding depth.

  • Nub Yarn: Contains intermittent knots, introducing irregular patterns.

Yarn to Fabric

Categories

1. Woven: Fabric created by interlacing yarns at right angles.

2. Knit: Fabric formed by interlocking yarns, allowing for stretch and versatility.

3. Non-Woven: Fabric produced from tangled fibers, typically used for items like surgical masks that require specific properties.

Dyeing Techniques

• Dyeing can be implemented at various production stages: at the solution, fiber, yarn, fabric, or garment level.

• Common methods include yarn-dyed and piece-dyed processes, with garment dyeing being less prevalent due to its complexities and costs.