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Fabric Construction Methods

Types of Fabric Formation

• Knitting: Involves forming yarn into interconnected loops, creating a stretchable fabric that is generally softer than woven options.

• Weaving: The interlacement of warp (vertical) and weft (horizontal) threads at right angles, resulting in a variety of fabric textures and strengths.

• Interlooping: Involves forming yarn loops where each loop is released only after forming a succeeding one, creating a unique set of characteristics specific to knitted fabrics.

Techniques of Knitting

• Interlacing: This method involves intertwining threads at angles, which can enhance the fabric's strength and elasticity.

• Interlooping: Specific to knitted fabrics, where loops are formed that intermesh with one another to provide elasticity and drape.

• Braiding & Knotting: Techniques that intertwine threads, often used for decorative purposes or structural support in specialized fabrics.

Knitted Fabric Characteristics

• Structure: Composed of horizontal courses of yarn, differing from the flat structure of woven fabrics, which can offer increased flexibility.

• Loop Formation: Each loop is interlocked, creating a distinct fabric texture and allowing for varied appearances based on yarn type and tension used in construction.

Types of Knitting

• Weft Knitting: Loops formed horizontally from a single yarn, usable in both circular or flat configurations, creating fabrics suited for garments as it allows greater stretch.

• Warp Knitting: Loops formed vertically from warp yarns, resulting in lengthwise structures that are more stable and less likely to unravel than weft knitted fabrics.

Course and Wales Terminology

• Courses: Horizontal rows of loops in a knitted fabric, critical for evaluating the fabric’s density and overall texture.

• Wales: Vertical columns of intermeshed loops, indicating the fabric’s structural integrity and aesthetic quality.

Features of Wales

• Loop transfers can occur between needles, affecting the fabric’s elasticity.

• Wales are interconnected by sinker loops (in weft knitting) or underlaps (in warp knitting), contributing to the fabric’s thickness and support.

• The technical face of the fabric displays wales clearly, often impacting the fabric's usability in various applications.

Parts of a Knit Loop

• Needle Loop: The upper part of the loop, crucial for determining the fabric's texture and elasticity.

• Sinker Loop: The lower part of the loop that connects neighboring stitches, playing a significant role in the fabric's stability.

• Open vs. Closed Loop: This defines the crossing of yarns at the bottom of the loop, impacting how the fabric drapes and behaves under tension.

Stitch Formation

• The basic unit of intermeshing, typically consisting of three intermeshed loops, influences the overall strength and appearance of knitted fabric.

Notations in Knitting

• Purpose: Simple symbolic representation of knitting patterns for clarity in designs, allowing knitters to interpret patterns easily.

• Types:

  • Verbal notation: Descriptive instructions for knitters.

  • Line/Looping diagram: Visual representation showing the formation of stitches.

  • Diagrammatic notation: Uses symbols to denote different stitches or techniques, streamlining the pattern reading process.

  • Symbolic notation: Standardized symbols for various stitches to facilitate quick understanding.

Course Length & Stitch Density

• Course Length: The length of yarn required for one course, calculated based on loops and stitch length, affecting fabric yield and cost.

• Stitch Density: Total number of loops in a measured area; consists of the sum of wales and courses per unit area, crucial for determining the fabric's overall weight and feel in applications.

Single vs. Double Jersey

• Single Jersey: A weft knitted fabric made by one set of needles, typically lighter and stretchier, used for t-shirts and lightweight garments.

• Double Jersey: A weft knitted fabric produced by two sets of needles, resulting in a thicker and more durable fabric ideal for outerwear and sports apparel.

Machinery in Knitting

• Needle Bed: Location of needles in a machine; varies between cylindrical and flat configurations, impacting the fabric's final form and stretch characteristics.

• Cylinder: The grooved steel bed that facilitates vertical movement of needles, essential for weft knitted fabrics.

• Dial: The upper section of double knit circular machinery that allows for radial needle movement, enabling complex designs and patterns.

Machine Gauge & Feeders

• Machine Gauge: The number of needles per inch on a bed, which directly determines the fabric fineness and characteristics, crucial for standardizing production.

• Feeders: Yarn guides that supply yarn to needle hooks, ensuring an efficient knitting process and precise fabric making, affecting quality and consistency.