Materials of Design and Decoration - pt. 1

All About Fabrics

Introduction

• Fabric, also known as textile or cloth, is a flexible material.

• Composed of a network of natural or artificial fibers (thread or yarn).

• Formed by weaving, knitting, or pressing into felt.

• Refers to yarns, threads, and wools used to manufacture cloth.
  

PROCESS OF MAKING CLOTH FROM FIBERS (CHRONOLOGICAL ORDER):
    1. FIBER - (STAPLE/SHORT FIBERS) (FILAMENT / LONG FIBERS)

    2. YARN / THREAD - TWISTED FIBERS

    3. TEXTILE - METHOD OF FORMATION

    4. FABRIC - TEMPORARY FINISH THAT IS EITHER PERMANENT / SPECIAL
    5. CLOTH - END PRODUCT

Terminologies

• Textile: Any material made up of interlacing fibers.

• Fabric: Any material made by various processes such as weaving, knitting, crocheting, or bonding.

• Cloth: Refers to a finished piece of fabric.

History

• Egypt: Linen fabrics found dating from 5000 BC.

• Scandinavia and Switzerland: Woolen textiles from the early bronze age.

• India: Cotton spun and woven since 3000 BC.

• China: Silk woven since at least 1000 BC.

Fibers and Yarns

• Fiber: Fine, hairlike strands that form the basis of a yarn.

  • Staple fibers: Short fibers, randomly arranged and loosely twisted, resulting in softer yarns. All natural fibers are staple except silk.

  • Filament fibers: Long and continuous fibers, measured in meters or yards, laid parallel and tightly twisted to produce smooth, strong yarns.

• Yarn: Formed by twisting fibers together to create a continuous strand.

  • Spun yarn: Composed of staple fibers twisted together.

Classification of Fibers

• Natural (Animal, Plant, Mineral)

• Synthetic (Man-made)

• Blended Fabric / Smart Fabric - Mix of natural and synthetic to serve particular purposes.

Synthetic Fibers

• Developed in the 20th century.

• Mostly thermoplastic - soften and melt when heated.

• Rayon - first synthetic fiber, produced in 1939.

Blends

• Modern and smart fabrics maximize characteristics like lightness, breathability, waterproofing, or react to heat/light.

Natural Fibers: Plant Fibers

• Cotton

• Kapok

• Flax or linen

• Jute

• Hemp

• Manila hemp or abaca

• Ramie

• Natural rubber

• Jusi

• Pina

• Agave - usually for floorings

Cotton

• Most widely used plant fiber.

• Comes from the balls of the cotton plant.

• Threads are spirally twisted under a microscope.

• Staple fiber length varies from 6mm to 60mm (1/4\" to 2 1/2\").

Characteristics

• Positive:

  • Versatile and durable.

  • One of the densest fibers.

  • Known for comfort, wicks away moisture.

• Negative:

  • Flammable.

  • Easily wrinkled.

  • Low elasticity and resiliency.

• Old process: ginning

Kapok

• "Poor man's cotton".

• Derived from seed of java kapok tree.

• Too brittle to be spun into fiber; used as cushioning.

• Very lightweight and non-absorbent.

• Used as stuffing for personal floating devices; can support about 30 times its weight in water.

Flax (Linen)

• Probably the oldest fiber ever woven into fabric.

• Vegetable fiber grayish in color with silky luster.

• Final fiber length 300mm to 600mm (12\" to 24\"), averaging about 18\".

• Shroud of Turin

Characteristics

• Doesn't support flame if not yet treated.

• Reflects heat better than cotton and holds color longer.

• Can be used as table linens, draperies, slipcovers

Linen

• Less soft and absorbent than cotton but more resistant to mildew.

• Extremely strong, non-elastic, tends to be brittle.

• Disadvantages: wrinkles and creases easily.

Jute or Burlap

• Resembles flax but is made from stem and stalk of the jute plant.

• Fiber is very long and dimensionally stable.

• Burlap a fabric that is often made in jute.

Characteristics

• Harsh, brittle, lint badly, and wrinkles easily.

• High UV protection, sound and heat insulation, low thermal conduction, and anti-static properties.

• Excellent resistance to microorganisms and insects.

Hemp

• Comes from the plant located in temperate zone.

• Coarse fibers used in ropes and sacks, now used in clothing.

• From the stem of cannabis sativa plant (marijuana).

Manila Hemp

• Also known as abaca.

• Fiber is obtained from the outer layer of the leaf (related to banana leaves)

• Finer fibers often 5m (15ft) long, used for weaving clothing.

• Finest rope made from its fibers.

• Very strong with great luster and is very resistant to damage from salt water.

Ramie

• An inexpensive fiber from East Asia used as substitute of flax.

• Sometimes called China grass or grass linen.

• Strong fiber with natural luster comparable to silk.

• Unusual resistance to bacteria and molds.

• Extremely absorbent and dries quickly and has excellent abrasion resistance 3 to 5 times stronger than cotton and twice as flax.

• Usually combines with cotton and rayon due to its stiffness.

Natural Rubber

• The latex (liquid part) could be extruded into fiber.

• Unique among the fibers.

• Highly elastic, flexible, and impermeable to water and air.

• Deteriorates in sunlight.

Jusi

• Made from banana fibers.

• Fiber of Barong.

Piña Fiber

• Made from the leaves of pineapple.

• Usually combines with silk and polyester to create fabric.

Animal Fibers

Wool (Sheep)

• Sheared from domesticated animals, primarily sheep.

• Fibers' length varies from 1\" to 18\".

• Colors vary from pale neutral to dark brown.

Characteristics

• Known for its exceptional resiliency and elasticity.

• Excellent use in carpets.

• Great resistance in abrasion, antiseptic.

• Has pleasingly soft hand and can be blended.

• Burns slowly and is self-extinguishing.

Hair

• From camel, goat, mohair, alpaca, llama, the vicuna or horsehair

• Pashmina- the current buzzword of the fashion industry.

• Shahtoosh "Pleasure of Kings" The world's most expensive fabric

  • Mohair-silk like fabric; from angora rabbit

  • Cashmere-taken from the lowly Kashmiri goat / fiber of the kings

Silk Fibers (worms)

• Considered the most beautiful of all fibers due to its marvelous, natural luster.

• Average length of each filament is about 600 yards.

• Its filament is extremely fine though quite strong in relation to it's size.

• Strongest natural fiber.

• Wrinkle resistant, fragile and discolor in strong light.

• Subject to mildew and rot in humid climates.

• Swells when damps and shrink when dry; burn slowly

Grades of Silk

• Organzine or Thrown Silk: Finest cultured silk yarn and is made from the longest filaments Up to 1500mts long

• Tram, Spunsilk : Use shorter strands (or broker strands) and have less luster and sheen

• Tussah: Silk fabric woven from silk made by wild, uncultivated silkworms, Naturally tan in color, cannot be bleached, and has a rougher texture than cultivated silk. Used to describe fabrics designed to imitate this kind of silk.

• Duppion/Dupioni: Fiber formed by two silkworms that spun their cocoons together in an interlocking manner., Yarn is uneven like linen, irregular, then regular filament

• Thai Silk: From Thai silk worms, Considered one of the finest fabrics in the world; end product coming out with unique patterns and colors (discolor at certain color)

Metal Fibers

• Threads of gold, silver, or copper woven into filmily casements or wall hangings.

• Fibers do not tarnish.

Asbestos

• Mineral with fluffy strands which are generally combined with cotton to produce a textile.

• The only natural mineral found in fiber form.

• Completely fireproof-used as fire fighter's apparel, ironing board covers, and in other hazardous industry applications.

• It's use in most applications is no longer legal due to the reason of serious diseases acquired by the user when inhaled

Synthetic Fibers

• 2 kinds of synthetic fibers

  • Cellulosic Fibers: Natural cellulose fibers, Manufactured regenerated fibers

  • Non-Cellulosic Fibers: Purely manufactured

Cellulosic Fibers

• Rayon: First man made fiber invented in 1910 by the American Viscose Company; Cellulose made from wood pulp and remains almost pure cellulose; Can imitate the feel and texture of silk, wool, cotton and linen; Soft, smooth, cool, comfortable, and highly absorbent; Do not insulate body heat; Light and abrasion resistant; and Subject to mildew and will not rot under prolonged exposure to sunlight.

• Acetate: Thermoplastic; Invented by the Celanese corporation in 1924; Also called as acele, avisco, celanese, chromspun, estron; Made from wood pulp and cotton linters; Is made into draperies, upholstery, curtains, and bed spreads and manufactured into acetate velvets, crepes, taffetas, and satin; "Dry clean only"; Takes color well; Soft and drape able; Blend with a wide variety of other fibers.

• Lyocell: Made up of 100% cotton; Introduced in 1900's; The development of this fabric is due to rayon's negative environmental impact; it is manufactured fiber of solved-spun; Manufactured fiber composed of solven-spun cellulose; Properties: possess a soft, cellulose fibers that attracts designers. Used in apparel, furnishings and industrial products

• Tri-Acetate (Arnel): Strongest among the cellulose fibers; Developed in the United States by Celanese corporation in 1954; Derive from cellulose by combining cellulose with acetate from acetic acid and acetic anhydride; Appearance and properties are very similar to those of acetate but washable; Shrink resistant and maintains a crisp finish; Discontinued since 1986 by the epa environmental protection agency due to use of the solvent methylene chloride considered an environmental hazard

Non-Cellulosic Fibers

• Nylon: Also called as A.C.E., Antron, Cordura; Developed by E.I. Dupont de Nemours & co. Inc in 1939; A polymer fiber made from petroleum by-product with other elements; One of the strongest of all fibers; Abrasion resistant; has excellent elasticity, and could be heat set; Does not absorb oil and most air-borne dirt and is resistant to chemicals; Easily dyed and washable; Repels fungus, mildew and mold and is dimensionally stable; Should be flame-proof when used in public areas; Deteriorates with prolonged exposure to sun light; Prone to static and pilling; Made into carpets, rugs, curtains, upholstery, draperies and bedspreads in home fashion..

• Acrylic: Acrilan, Crislan, Orlon, Zefran; Developed by E.I. du Pont de Nemours and co. Inc in the United States 1950; Produced from acrylonitrile, a petrochemical; Soft, light and fluffy in construction; fibers have outstanding wickability and quick drying to move moisture from body surface Flexible aesthetics for wool-like, cotton-like, or blended appearance, easily washed, retain shape, resistant to moths, oil and chemicals; Dyeable to bright shades with excellent fastness and superior resistance to sunlight degradation; Made into blankets, area rugs, upholstery, pile, luggage, awnings and outdoor furniture

• Modacrylic: Also called Synel, Verel; Developed by union carbide in 1949; Made of polymer resins - elements of natural gas, coal, air, salt and water; Fibers dye easily, washable and drip dry; Resistant to acids and alkalis; Flame resistant and is used for draperies and casement cloths

• Olefins/Polypropylene: Also called Herculon, Vectra Developed by the Hercules inc. In 1961 from a by-product of petroleum; Upholstery-weight textiles are strong, light in weight and generally bulked; Do not absorb moisture or air-born dirt, resistant to abrasion, mildew, rot, moths and vermin; Strong and inexpensive, chemically inert, thermoplastic and static-resistant

• Polyester: Terylene, Dacron, Fortel, Trevira; Introduced by Du Pont Co. In 1953; Most popular synthetic fiber to use as fabric; Considered as workhorse fiber of the industry; A derivative of coal, air, water and petroleum; Polymer fibers are strong and have the ability to withstand sunlight; Resist air-born and oil-born dirt; Washable and drip-dry; Abrasion resistant Contributing desirable properties to the blend without destroying those of the other fiber; Versatility and blending are one of the unique advantages of polyester

• Glass Fiber: Also called fiber glass, ppg fiber glass; By owns-corning fiberglass corporation in 1936; Resistant to flame; Strong and does not absorb moisture and dyes well; best used to draperies or casement cloth; Poor resistance to abrasion and is troublesome to sew; Skin irritation from tiny broken fibers limits the used for fabric as apparel

• Polymide Nylon: Chemical fiber with the make-up similar to nylon; Outperforms existing synthetics in washability, wrinkle resistance and ease of care; Does not shrink; Resembles silk in luster, weight, color, feel and drapability but can be ironed at high heat like cotton

• Vinyl (Saran): Used for outdoor upholstery and screening; When woven with other materials, used in curtains, drapery fabrics and wall covering; Unaffected by sunlight, ease-to-care, wrinkle resistance, cease retention and dyability; Usually blended with rayon and modacrylic with vinyl dominating

• Spandex Cellulosic Fibers: Cleerspan, Glospan, Lycra, Interspan, Elastane; Strong, durable, stretches and recovers; Can be blended with other fibers to add elasticity and resilience to a fabric without altering appearance; Easily dyed, good moisture-resistance

• Polylactic Acid Polymer PLA: Made through fermentation of the corn plant; Known as biodegradable polyester as it has similar characteristics with polyester and silkiness of a silk; Moisture regain surpass polyester making it more comfortable when used for pillows and upholstery; Biodegradable, recyclable and environmentally friendly

• Aramids: Marketed under the trade names normex and kevlar; Normex is a high temperature-resistant fiber mostly used in apparel such as firefighters' clothing and space suits. Kevlar is also a high temperature-resistant fiber used mostly as a barrier fabric between the upholstery cushion and fabric in seating. Also used in bullet-resistant vests; Difficult to dye

Blended Fabrics

• Combine fibers with certain qualities with fibers of other qualities that complement each other.

• Advantages: improve appearance, properties (durability, easy care), handle, profitability.

• Common blends: Polyester/Cotton, Nylon/Wool, Nylon/Acetate, Ramie/Polyester, Ramie/Acrylic, Wool/Cotton, Linen/Cotton, Linen/Silk, Linen/Rayon, Silk/Wool, Rayon/Cotton.

Methods of Fabric Formation

• Felting

• Filming

• Knitting

• Twisting

• Weaving

Felting

• Matting together of fibers by moisture, pressure, and heat.

• Results in continuous dense cloth that is firm, slightly fuzzy, and comparatively low tensile strength.

• Has no grain or direction; can be cut, sown, or draped in any way without hemming

Filming

• Produced originally in sheet forms by extrusion through a wide dye, forming in molds or rolling between rollers.

• Sheet is finished product in highly varied forms that is thick and opaque, leather-like, suede-like softness, embossed, etc.

• Newest techniques eliminate the cut-and-sew, or even the sheet stage to produce the finished product as in film on the form

Knitting

• Utilizes machinery wherein blunt rods or needles are used to form a single continuous yarn into a series of interlocking loops; Sometimes is much faster than weaving and produces dimensionally stable knit fabrics

Braiding

• The interweaving or intertwining of three or more strands of yarn or other material. So the strands pass over and under one another

Twisting

• Intertwining and sometimes knotting of yarns that run in two or more directions. Used to make nets and ropes

Weaving

• Most of our fabrics are made; Warp-lengthwise yarns; Weft-crosswise yarns

Types of Weaves

• Plain weave

• Twill weave

• Satin weave

• Pile weave

A. Plain Weave

• Made by the simple interweaving of warp and weft threads; Each yarn passes over and then under the weft yarns; Plain weaves wear well but tend to wrinkle; Plain-weave is strong and hardwearing.

  • Plain Single Weave

  • Plain Double Weave (basket weave): Two or more weft threads are interlaced into the same number of warp threads.

  • Rib Weave: The weft yarn is heavier than the warp yarn with the result of a diagonal texture becoming more apparent.

B. Twill Weave

• Regular twill: the long threads of floats pass over and under the same number of yarns

• Irregular: the floats pass over and under a different number of threads; Ex. Denim, gabardine and herringbones

    Advantage

• Resist oil

• Wrinkle less

• More flexible

• Drape able than plain weaves

C. Satin Weave

• Emphasizes the continuous weft yarn with as few interruptions of warp as possible; the warp yarns skip four to seven weft yarn

• Sateen is a form of satin weave; a variation of mercerized cotton

D. Pile Weaves

• This refer to fabrics that are woven in such a way as to create loops or piles that stand out from the surface of the fabric; The fabric is woven with three fibers, the warp, the weft and an extra set of either warp or weft, Once woven, these extra fibers may be cut, uncut, or a combination of both.

• Velvet Pile created by weaving one of the two sets of yarns into a plain weave to create a solid back, while lifting the second set of warp yarns by means of a hook to form a loop slightly higher than the backing weave.

• Frise - Same process used as in the velvet pile, except that the lifted yarns remain uncut

Combination or Figured Weaves

• Tapestry: Decorative fabric made by weaving colored weft threads alternatively over and under the warp threads to form a pictorial or ornamental design. A hand-woven fabric made with dobbins; It can be woven on practically any type of loom but the jacquard is most commonly used. It is essentially a plain weave but is made in a special weave across the warp; into one another, or around adjacent warps, leaving a narrow slit. Interlocked joint, Slit juncture, Diagonal juncture, Dovetail

• Extra Warp and Weft Pattern Weaves: Are those in which extra warp and weft yarns are added to the fabric during weaving

• Double-Cloth Weaves: Accounted to ancient Peruvians

• Open or Lace-Like Weaves: Leno a loose weave in which the warp threads are bound in half twists around each other and around a filler yarn, alternating in position on each row to form a knot to keep the yarn from slipping., Gauze very similar to leno, difference is that the warp threads maintain the same position in relation to the weft.

• Tension and Textured- Related Weaves: Are weaves in which uneven tension in either weft or warp yarns produces an uneven surface effect.

Fabric Finishes

Classification Of Finishes

• Temporary finish - finish that lasts until the fabric is washed or dry-cleaned

• Durable finish - lasts longer than temporary but it may become unsatisfactorily with the passing of time

• Permanent finish - lasts until the garment is of service

• General finish - include finishes that affect the texture and appearance of the cloth.

• Special finishes those which affect the performance of the cloth; also called as functional finishes because they give the fabric special service feature which improves it's properties and functions

General Finishes

• Beetling (Pinukpok): Common finishing process for linen; The fabric is hammered, and the yarns are flattened by the impact of wooden mallets. Firm, flattened, lustrous appearance

• Bleaching: Makes the fabric white and impurities are removed through the use of chemicals such as peroxide or chlorine bleaching compounds. Increase the fabric's ability to absorb dye stuff uniformly

• Calendering: A finishing process which makes the fabrics smooth and glossy

• Crabbing: A wool finishing process to prevent creases of other forms of uneven shrinkage in latter stages of finishing.

• Decating or decatizing: Improves the appearance, enhances luster and hand of the material

• Fulling: An important finish applied to wool fabrics

• Mercerizing: Common finishing process for cotton; To achieve the glossy or shinny finish

• Singeing or Gassing: The purpose of removing the fuzz of protruding fibers. It makes the fabric surface smooth; Accomplished by quickly passing the fabric over jets of flames or white-hot metal plates.

• Sizing Or Dressing: Other terms for starching. The cloth is filled with starch to increase strength, smoothness, stiffness, or weight of the fabric

• Tentering, Stentering or Heat-Setting: This straightens and restores the cloth to its proper dimensions

Special Finishes

• Antiseptic finish: A chemical treatment designed to make a fabric bacteria-resistant

• Anti-Static Finish: A chemical treatment applied to synthetic fabrics to prevent the accumulation of static electricity

• Crease-Resistant Finish: Applied mostly on fabrics such fibers as cotton, linen, ramie, and rayon: the fabrics quick recovery from crease and wrinkles. Moisture is still absorbed by the fabric but swelling

• Flame Retardant Finish: Chemically treated to retard flammability. Ammonium sulphonate - effective flame-proofing compounds.

• Glazed finish: Obtain through chemical and mechanical means (resin treated fabrics have greater durability than those mechanically achieved glazed surfaces)

• Heat-reflectant finish: Also called insulated finish. Makes a fabric suitable for either hot or called weather. Heat-reflectant fabrics are suitable for reversible vests and blazers.

• Mildew-resistant finish: Given mostly to rayon, cotton and linen fabrics which are most susceptible to attack by mildew in moist and humid conditions.

• Moth-resistant finish: Sometimes referred to as moth-proofing finish. Chemical finish especially to wool fabrics to make them resistant to attack by moths and Capet Bettles.

• Napping: A mechanical finish of subjecting the surface of a fabric to a brushing process to raise the fiber ends thus creating a surface fizziness. Flannelette-typical sample of a napped fabric

• Shrink-Resistant Finish (mechanical method): fabrics so treated may have less than 2% shrinkage in the warp and filling directions. A sanforized label or mark applied to cotton or linen fabrics indicates a mechanical shrink-resistant finish that has met standards of less than 1% shrinkage

• Slip-Resistant Finish: It prevents the warp yarns from slipping along the filling yarns. It is stretched and dried under tension.

• Soil And Stain-Resistant Finish: Chemical finish usually given to rug and upholstery fabrics repel soil and stain. Silicone is the compound used for this type of finish. The treated fabrics become water-repellent such that water-borne stains cannot penetrate.

• Wash And Wear Finish or Mini-Care Finish: Also referred to drip-dry finish. Wash and wear fabrics will dry smoothly and need little or no ironing after washing. They have a good, soft hand and neat appearance.

• Water-repellant finish: Makes a fabric resistant to wetting but not waterproof. Permits the fabric to breathe, allowing passage of air, water vapor, and perspiration through it.

• Waterproof finish: Totally coats the fabric thus closing the pores and enabling it to shed water under all pressures. These fabrics do not breathe

Dyes and Dyeing

• 2 kinds of colorant:

  • Dyes (Liquid Form): soluble substances which penetrate into the fabric and are fixed by a chemical action, heat or other treatment.

  • Pigment (Powder Form). are insoluble color particles which are held on the surface of a fabric by a binding agent

• Acid dyes: colored water-soluble organic compounds, mainly salts of sulphuric acid. For wool, silk, nylon and casein.

• Basic dyes: oldest among the artificial dyes Best for silk, wool, nylon casien fiber. Less value in cotton, linen and regenerated rayon unless a mordant (chemical which helps the dyes to penetrate the fabric) is used.

• Direct or Salt Dyes: color both protein and cellulosic fibers. Direct dyes for cotton, linen, viscose and rayon ( with this, those fabrics achieve very bright full colors).

• Disperse dyes: formerly called acetate dyes; originally developed for acetate fibers; now used for coloring acetate, polyester, and acrylic and nylon fibers.

• Developed dyes: used for cotton, linen and viscose rayon

• Reactive dyes: wool and silk can be dyed in this fashion, however the best result are obtained in cotton.

• Sulphur dyes: used for cotton and viscose rayon. Dull in color and include a few blues, green, maroons, oranges and yellow.

• Vat dyes: fastest dyes for cotton, linen and rayon. Also used in made fibers with the use of a mordant.

Basic Methods Of Dyeing Fabrics

• Solution dye: some of the man-made fibers may be dyed in a solution before filament is formed.

• Fiber dye (stock dye): the fibers are dyed before the yarns are spun and woven into fabric

• Yarn dye: the yarns are dyed before they are woven into checks, plaids, stripes or herringbone designs.

• Piece dye: cloth is dyed after fabrication.

• Cross dye: fabric of two or more fibers is placed in a dye bath containing two or more different dyes. Each fiber will be dyed for which it has an affinity

• Solid fabric: from one fiber is dyed one color.

• Union dye: mixes dyes for fabrics made from two or more fibers so that the fibers will dye the same color.

Fabric Design

• Structural Design: Yarn type and arrangement, Weaves, knits and variations

• Applied Design: Printing

Printing

• Block printing: oldest method of printing design on fabrics.

• Stencil printing: the design is cut on a cardboard, wood or metal. A color is applied penetrating only the cut portion.

• Burn-out printing: acids are used in this type of printing.

• Discharge or extract printing: the color is discharged or removed from the fabric, thus, creating a design.

• Roller printing: machine counterpart of hand block printing

• Duplex printing: printing which creates design on the face and back of the fabric, simulating a woven pattern. Achieve with the use of duplex machine or the roller printing machine

• Resist printing: batik printing is the best example of resist printing. Uses a substance to prevent dye from reaching certain areas of fabric, creating patterns.

• Photo printing: same method in developing a photograph; the fabric to be printed is covered with chemicals that are sensitive to light.

• Plisse printing: chemicals are used to produce the puckered design.

• Warp printing: the warp yarns are printed, usually with the use of rollers, before they are woven into a fabric.

• Screen printing: a lacquer coating is applied to all parts of the screen on which the design does not appear. The screen is put on top of the fabric to be printed and the dye or printing paste is sprayed, painted or rubbed back and forth with a rubber paddle called a squeege

• Transfer printing: transferring prints from pre-printed release papers to fabrics.

• Free hand painting: done for special purposes; simplest method of fabric designing

Applied Design - Others

• Applique: applying one piece of fabric to another larger piece

• Embossed designs: are raised designs found on the surface of the fabric

• Flocked designs: tiny pieces of fiber, called flocks are made to stick to the fabric.

• Glued or pasted design: are cut out designs held to the fabric surface by the use of glue or an adhesive

• Moire design: watered appearance

Fabrics For Floor Coverings

• Carpet: General designation for, Provides floors with both resilience, and warmthin a wide patterns.

Types of Fibers Used

Natural Fibers

• Wool: Generally, the most expensive carpet fiber; Naturally flame resistant. New Zealand wool absorbs dye easily; colors with great clarity and uniformity, staples are lustrous and tough, and color is almost white, Argentinean wool - noted for its gloss and sheen with natural resistance to soiling, Indian wool crush resistant wool., Iraqi wool-high abrasion resistance and durability, Scottish wool-finest of all carpet wool

• Sisal (Scratch Rush): Natural products that grow like grass, Strong and woody fiber produced from the leaves of the agave plants, Tends to stain and crush easily, but still stronger and durable than any natural fiber; Colorfast and static-free Used mostly in twine, rugs, floor mats and rope

• Coir (Coconut Plush): tough, does not pill, can withstand a great deal of abrasion, highly resistant against insect

• Cotton: softer than wool but less durable

• Jute: the softest of all natural fibers. Darken when exposed to sunlight and disintegrates with prolonged to moisture

• Maize: made from corn husks

Synthetic Fibers

• Nylon: Most popular fiber used; Versatile and easy to maintain and clean and withstand with high foot traffic Usually combined with wool for durability

• Acrylic: One of the first synthetic fibers to be used successfully in the production of carpet; Highly resistant to sunlight, stains and mildew

• Modacrylic: It has better heat retention and is flame retardant as compared to acrylic

• Polyester: Soft and luxurious Strong and durable with abrasion resistance It has low static build-up factor

• Polypropylene Olefins: Newest and one of the most economical Comparable to nylon in durability, strength and wear resistance; Lightest commerdal carpet fibe; Absorbs little moisture resists stains, cleans well, and almost completely free of static build up.

Brand Names

• Acetate-brand names like avisco, celaire, cromspun, estron

• Azlons-brand name like vicara

• Rayons avicolor avicron, avsio, corval, fibro, kolorbon, skybloom, skylaft, soluran, spunvis, stylux, tufton

• Saran like rovana, saran.

• Triacetate brand names like arnel

Combination of Two or More Fibers into a Single Carpet Yarn

• Objective of blending: performance standards, a more appealing aesthetic quality and improved economics; Example: 70% wool and 30% nylon = abrasion resistance (nylon) and the warmth and luxury (wool).

Parts of a Carpet

• Face: the wearing surface of carpet or rugs

• Primary backing: yarns' ground; foundation of yarns

• Latex to glue on the roots of the yarns onto the cotton canvas cutting

• Secondary backing also known as carpet pad; often woven jute or polypropylene.

Methods of Manufacturing Carpets

• Tufting

• Weaving

• Knitting

• Needle punch Carpet

• Flocked carpet

Tufting

• Far less expensive and faster to produce woven carpet

• For mass production of affordable carpet

Weaving

• Traditional way of making a carpet on a loom

• Most woven carpet is heavy, dimensional stable and strong

• Does not required secondary backing

Knitting

• Similar to woven carpet because pile and backing are made in a single operation;

• A knitting machine uses three sets of needles to loop the pile backing yarn and stitching yarns together. With latex coating on the backing part for strength and body

Needle Punch Carpet

• Fibers (usually acrylic or polypropylene) are punched into a web of synthetic fiber to form a homogenized layer of fiber.

Flocked Carpet

• Electrostatic methodfibers are electro statically, treated and sprayed onto an electrically charged backing sheet which has been treated with adhesive

Textures of Carpets: Cut Pile

• Cut Pile Plush

  • Has a luxurious look and feel

  • Subject to shading and shows footmarks

  • Saxony Plush

    • Uses thicker yarns

    • Texture between cut pile plush and cut pile

  • Twist/frieze

  • Shag

    • Heavier, rougher texture

    • Made in solid color or multi-tone effect

    • Multi-directional, high pile twist, giving an attractive informal look

    • It has heavily textured surface created by the long, twisting yarns

• Loop Pile

  • Created by weaving, tufting, or knitting the pile yarns into loops.

  • Left uncut; sometimes referred to as round wires in woven carpet

  • Tougher and more easily maintained than cut pile

• Combination Loop and Cut Pile

  • Adds a degree of warmth to an all loop pile. It can be produced in tufted and woven construction

• Sculptured textures

  • Carving

    • Process of incising a design into a carpet or rug which has already been woven

  • Sculptured textures:

    • recessing

      • Is the process actually weaving a design into a low level rather than shearing down or carving it into the carpet

    • Embossing

      • Is the process of weaving a design in a higher level

    • Beveling

      • Rounding off those parts of a carpet that have already been carved, recessed or embossed

Methods of coloring

• Dyeing

  • Coloration in carpet can be achieved at three possible times in the manufacturing process: during fiber development, before the carpet is tufted or before the secondary backing is applied.

• Printing

  • Screen printing

    • Employs flat templates, or screens, through which dyes form the finished pattern on the carpet

  • Deep-dye printing

    • Similar to screening. An electrostatic charge forces the pre-metallized dyes used in this process deep into the pile.

  • Roller printing

    • Employs embossed cylinders to deposit the design on the face of the carpet. Each cylinder paints a different color.

  • Jet printing

    • Utilize rows of very closely spaced jets which spray the carpet with color as it passes by.

  • Rotary screen printing

    • A combination of roller and screen printing in which a perforated cylindrical screen issued to apply color.

Rugs

• A single piece compact, woven, knitted, or tufted fabric, has boarders, and intended as a floor covering

• Each rug is a separate unit and is meant to cover only a portion of the floor area, and not the whole floor

Classification

• Antique

  • 100 years or more.

  • Purists believe that oriental rugs are antique only if it dates prior to 1856 before synthetic dyes where in use

• Semi-antique or old

  • Between 50 and 100 years old

• Possible values in oriental rugs

  • Utility value-depends entirely on the durability of the fabric as a floor covering as floor covering;

  • Art value-depends upon the color and design rather than upon the texture;

  • Collector's value-depends upon the rarity of the art value

Parts of a Rug (Oriental)

• Warps

  • The parallel strings stretched from loom beam to loom beam upon which rows of knots are tied. Strongest part of the rug

• Wefts

  • The filling yarn that are woven through the warps, they run across the width of the rug, over and under the warp strings and between rows of knots.

• Pile

  • The surface yarn that makes up the face of the rug

• Knots

  • Are tied by looping yarn around pairs of warps and cutting off the standing end. The end of the knot become the pile or nap of the rub

• Edge bindings

  • Made by wrapping several warps at the edge of the rug with yarn to reinforce this part of the rug

• End finishes

  • Holds knots and weft from working off the rug's

• Fringes

  • Are formed by gathering and knotting together bundles of warp strings at both ends of the rug after the been cut from the loom.

• Field

  • Is the background of the rug inside the borders. It may be solid or patterned.

• Border

  • Is composed of decorative designs repeated in one direction around the outside of the rug

    • Main border

      • Is the widest decorative design around the outside of the rug

    • Guard borders

      • Narrow decorative designs flanking the main boarders

• Medallion

  • Is the round, oval or polygonal design element that sometimes occupies the center of the field

• Corner Brackets or Spandrels

  • Are design which sometimes fill the corners of the field

Weaving Methods

• Machine woven

  • Axminster

  • Velvet

  • Wilton loom

  • Chenille

• Hand woven

  • Braided

  • Crocheted

  • Embroidered

  • Hand hooked

  • Hand tufted

  • Hand knotted

    • Persian knot

    • Turkish knot

• Flat weave

Classifications of Oriental Rugs By Pattern Type

• Geometrical rugs

  • Rugs of primitive and tribal people of Persia

  • Kazakh - woven with sharp reds, blues and off whites

  • Bachtiari - bright yellows, greens and red

  • Boukara - woven rugs usually in some shade of red and until recently, some in ivory predominate

• Floral Rugs

  • Usually made of fine quality wool. Intricate flowing patterns indicate a sophisticated lifestyle.

• Conventional Rugs

  • Tend to use repetitive, stylized, conventional rugs;

  • Small motifs are repeated again and again.

  • Persian

    • Generally, have a delicately colored all-over pattern of flowers, vines or leaves, which start from a center medallion and almost completely cover the background color;

    • Soft and delicate colors blending with one another.

  • Indian

    • Decorated with motifs of flowers, vines and animals;

    • Characterized by more brilliant colors and a more naturalistic style.

Classification of oriental rugs by geographic origin

• Turkoman

  • Closely woven with a short, firm pile, predominantly red with designs including squares, diamonds, octagons and other simple angular motifs.

• Caucasian

  • Small rugs with contrasting, strong colors woven by nomadic tribes with geometric designs, often incorporating stylized people and animals.

• Turkish

  • Sometimes called Asia Minor, woven in both geometric and floral designs but with smaller patterns than the Persian or Indian;

    • Brighter, sharper colors

• Chinese

  • Prayer rugs

    • Recognizable by their soft ground colors of yellow, rose, salmon-red, beige, browns (with the use of silk dyes)

    • Pattern in one blue color

    • Designs are Chinese religious symbols

Other Hand Made Area Rugs

• American Indian

  • Colorful hand-woven rugs (Navajo) of wool. Motifs are primitive geometric patterns, st boarders. Weave is flat

• Alpujira (Spanish)

  • Coarse, heavy rugs originally meant as bedspreads, hand-loomed by peasants in alpujira, spain.

  • Bold designs woven in 2 to 10 colors; include tree of life patterns flowers, leaves and grapes

• Arraiolo

  • Hand embroidered accent rugs made in either bright

• Aubusson

  • Named for French town of Aubusson;

  • Made of wool, linen, and cotton;

  • Usually has a plane cream ground with floral designs and arabesques in pastel shades of rose, blue, lavender, green and beige;

  • Weave resembles needlepoint;

• Braided-Hand-Made (American)

  • Consisting of many scraps' fabric braided and sewn together into colorful round or oval rugs of various sizes.

• Dhurrie (Tibetan)

  • Is a flate woven and reversible rug

    • Old times: with bold geometric designs in bright colors

    • Modern Times: Subdued Color and Patterns

• Flokati (Greek)

  • Shaggy wool area rug in solid colors as well as natural off-white shade.

• Kelim/Kilim/Kelem (turkey, italy, romania, persian gulf states, morocco or hungary)

  • Hand woven rugs with all-over geometric patterns with a center motif.

• Moroccan

  • Hand woven with thick, shaggy pile and fringed edges. Dominant geometric patterns with strong contrasting colors like black and rust brown, white or bright orange on red grounds.

• Needlework (Needlepoint or Gros-Point)

  • Tapestry-stitch embroidery worked with wool yarns on a canvas mesh backing

• Rya (Scandinavian)

  • Hand knotted shaggy weave with alternating short and long pile, in abstract or contemporary peasant designs.

• Savonnerie

  • Designed for century houses and palaces during 18th and 19th century

  • Hand woven rug with a high pile, in pastel colors and floral and scroll patterns

  • Produced in the rug factory at the former soap Paris and sewn into squares.

Upholstery

Types of Upholstery:

1. Cotton

2. Silk

3. Wool

4. Leather

5. Flax / Linen

6. Nylon

7. Polyester

8. Olefin

9. Vinyl

10. Acrylic

11. Acetate

12. Rayon

13. Polyester and Nylon blend
        

14. Abrasion

    • Wyzenbeek (American Fabric Test) and Martindale (European Standard In Fabric Test) tests are the 2 methods commonly used to predict wearability.

      • 3,000 rubs is equivalent of 1 year use in Martindale

      • 900 double rubs in Wyzenbeek (x 33\% from rubs

Fabric Properties

• The actual performance of a fabric is determined by many factors such as "fiber content, weaves, "finishes, furniture design, maintenance, cleaning and usage.

• Durability of an upholstery fabric is a complex interaction of a number of performance tests that, in addition to abrasion, includes seam slippage, pilling, tensile strength, and usage.

  • 3,000-9,000 double rubs (Wyzenbeek method) residential

  • 9,000 - 15,000 double rubs for commercial application

  • 15,000 - 30,000 double rubs for heavy duty application

  • 30,000 and up extra heavy-duty application

Basic Fabric Properties

• Yarn/seam/slippage: measures the ability of a sewn seam to resist slippage or breakage when subject to tension.

• Breaking tensile strength: measures the extension length of fabric to it's breaking point.

• Colorfastness to light: measures resistance to fading or color degradation when exposed to light.

• Colorfastness to dry and wet crocking: measures fabrics' ability to withstand wet and dry rubbing without color degradation or the transfer of color.

• Pilling: a test to measure the amount of pilling (formation of fuzzy balls on the surface of the fabric) and the fuzzing that will occur.

Leather

• Durable and flexible material created by the tanning of animal rawhide and skin, often cattle hide (cow skin)

Leather Types

• Ostriches Leather - Hermes, Prada, Gucci, Louis Vuitton

• Stingray leather-wallet and belts

• Kangaroo leather-motorcycle leathers, soccer footwear, boxing speed bags

• Lamb and deerskin - used for soft leather in apparel

• Deer and elkskin - work gloves and Indoor shoes

• Suede leather

  • Most commonly refers to a type of leather with a soft, napped finish

  • Suede leather is made from the inner splits of a side of leather