Chapter 5 Seams

Structural seams: Shoulder seam, side seam, and sleeve underarm seam, help define the garment silhouette; placed within the garment silhouette to shape the garment to the body.

Enclosed seams: Occur at the edges of collars, some pockets, and waistline and cuff edges, etc.

Tissue stitching: Seams can be sewn using strips of tissue paper in a color nearest to that fabric.

Staystitching: A single row of stitching applied to one layer of fabric to reinforce and prevent seams from stretching and distorting in the stitching process.

Staystitching must be used for reinforcing shaped and angled neckline edges before collar, facing, or lining is applied

Stitching directionally: Stitching from the top of the garment to the bottom of the garment. Prevents seams from looking twisted.

Pinking shears: Shears with blades with either triangular shaped edges or scallops. Produces an edge on the seam allowance that helps prevent unraveling. Produces a flat and smooth seam finish.

Closed serged seam: Both cut edges of the seam are serged together and pressed to one side.

¼ inch serged seam: A cost defective alternative to stitching a French seam

Safety stitch: Stitches the seam line and the edge finish simultaneously.

Piped seam: A bias-cut piece of fabric wrapped around cording and inserted into a seam. Decorative element that highlights a seam, and is still part of the structural design.

Eased seam: Has slight fullness on one side of the seam and is most often used to create roundness or fullness. Sleeve cap and waistline.

The longer section to be eased must be notched.

Grading seams: Refers to the trimming of the seam allowance to different levels to eliminate bulk.

Topstitching: Refers to rows of stitches that are stitched on the surface of the fabric on top of the seam. Makes a seam stronger, highlights the design lines and helps the seam lay flat.

Edgestitching: A row of topstitching 1/16 inch away from the seam line, with the correct side of the fabric facing up.

Double topstitched seam: Combines an edgestitch and a welt.

Twin needle topstitching: Produces two "perfect" parallel rows of topstitching on the correct side of the fabric, and a zigzag-like stitch on the underside.

Saddle stitch: Evenly spaced and stitched approx. 1/4 inch long and 1/4 inch wide. Parallel to the seam line.

Pick stitch: A small stitch showing on the fabric surface with a longer stitch underneath.

Hong Kong finish: Encases raw edges with bias binding. Used in high end garments and used on unlined jackets and coats.

Stitching in the ditch: A technique used to secure and complete a Hong Kong finish. A row of stitches on the correct side of the fabric and buried in the seam well or seam line.

Running stitch: Will not hold a seam together on a garment but can be used for gathering and easing by hand.

Slipstitch: Used to stitch hems or to mend broken seams by hand

Godets: V-shaped/triangular pieces of fabric that are inset into a seam. Adds flare and fullness to the section where it is inserted.

Hairline seam: A narrow, 1/4 inch closed seam. A finish for sheer fabrics and an alternative to French seams.

French seam: A narrow enclosed seam that looks like a small, neat, tucked seam from the wrong side. Ideal for sheer fabrics.

Flat felled seam: Seam with the raw edges of both seam allowances folded under as the seam is stitched; a strong and durable seam

Rigilene boning: Thin, flexible boning made from polyester. Made in 1/4 or 3/8 inch widths.

Plastic boning in casing: 1/4 inch wide boning is inserted into cotton or polyester casing after the casing has been stitched to the seams.

Open serged seam: Serged along each cut edge.