CHAPTER 8 FACIAL TREATMENTS

IMPORTANCE OF UNDERSTANDING FACIAL TREATMENTS

• foundational skill for all skin care services )must be able to provide services hat are safe and beneficial to your clients)

• Providing education and consultations on how the skin work, along with the effects of environmental, dietary, aging, and lifestyle choices, are parts of a facial that establish a partnership between the client and esthetician

• Facial treatments focus on resting an ongoing program to help reduce the appearance of skin concerns (oiliness, fine lines, wrinkles, acne) while also engaging the client in a daily maintenance program with long term benefits to achieve well balanced skin throughout their life

• Facial treatments are the core introductory skill that estheticians perform that lead to other more advanced and result-oriented services (result in repeat appointments and solid client base)

• Facials offer 2 benefits at the same time : improvements in the skin and relaxation

FACIAL

• professional service designed to improve and rejuvenate the skin

• Typically includes deep cleansing such as extractions, hydration, massage, mask application or mild peels, possible use of skin treatment machines, and finally the application of serums, moisturizer, and sunscreen

• Facials should be customized for each individual client by choosing the correct products and ensuring the protocol steps implemented are appropriate for that client (skin analysis will provide information of what protocols and products to use)

FACIAL TREATMENT BENEFITS

• deep cleanses

• Exfoliates

• Increases circulation and detoxifies

• Relaxes the senses, nerves, and muscles

• Slows down symptoms of premature aging

• Addresses conditions such as dryness, oiliness, and redness

• Softens the appearance of wrinkles and aging lines

• Helps lessen the appearance of blemishes and minor acne

• Provides access to an estheticians expertise for at-home skin care maintenance

• Supports skin health and making good lifestyle choices

• IMPORTANT TO KNOW FACIALS AND ESTHETICIANS CANNOT DIAGNOSE OR TREAT MEDICAL CONDITIONS SUCH AS ROSACEA OR CYSTIC ACNE

ESSENTIAL SKILLS NEEDED TO SUCCESSFULLY PERFORM FACIALS

1. Impeccable customer service and proper communication skills (client-relation skills are important and knowing how to connect and communicate effectively with clients)

2. Exceptional skills (knowledge of skin histology, skin analysis, skin care products, contraindications, technological advances, facial equipment, massage techniques, and your touch, pressure, and flow in the facial)

3. Mastering retail sales techniques (retailing and client consultations)

4. Ongoing education (take classes at an academy or online webinar, subscribe to online resources, commit to attend at least 1 esthetics class or conference yearly, getting degrees at different levels)

KEY ELEMENTS OF CLIENT INTERACTION

1. Focus on the client

2. Client comfort

3. Inform the client

4. Be diligent, organized, and skillful

FOCUS ON THE CLIENT

• be genuine in your concern for your client and focus on their neeeds

• Give the client your full attention at all times

• Ask the client what their skin care concerns are, listen carefully before you respond

CLIENT COMFORT

• help the client to relax by speaking in a quiet and professional manner

• Provide a professional atmosphere and work efficiently

• Make sure the client is comfortable (proper beds and chairs are important)

• Always wear disposable gloves

• Keep your nails smooth and short to avoid scratching the clients skin

• Remove rings, bracelets, and other jewelry that ay injure the client, get in the way, or cause a distraction during the treatment

• Be aware of your touch and the amount of pressure you apply to the face

INFORM THE CLIENT

• provide a skill analysis and educational consultation

• Explain the benefits of the products and service you offer and answer any questions they may have

BE DILIGENT, ORGANIZED, AND SKILLFUL

• maintain neat and clean conditions in the facial work area

• Arrange supplies in the orderly fashion

• Keep implements in a closed container when not in use

• Follow systematic procedures

• Measure or use pre-measured products for consistency and best results

• Apply and remove products neatly, and avoid getting them in the eyes, mouth, and nostrils

• Do not let water or products drip dow the clients neck or in the eyes or ears

PERFORM THE FACIAL SETUP PROCEDURES

• setup your room and prepare all supplies needed for a facial treatment

• Important to assemble supplies in an organized, efficient manner and have them on hand before beginning the treatment

• Review the contraindication information

• Use the client charts and consultation information

MEETING AND GREETING CLIENTS

• one of the most important communications you will have

• Be polite, friendly, and inviting

• Always approach with a smile

• Always introduce yourself to new clients and greet returning clients by name, a brief yet warm handshake will make the client feel welcome

• Set aside a few minutes to take new clients on a quick tour of the facility (helps clients feel comfortable and at home)

• It is common courtesy to devote the time you are with your client to your client and their needs (refrain from discussing your own problems or allowing your mood to intrude on the service)

• Be professional yet genuine (clients can sense if you are genuine and open and will have more confidence in your expertise)

PREPARE CLIENT FOR THE FACIAL TREATMENT

1. Changing instructions

2. Assist the client onto the facial bed

3. Drape and adjust for comfort

CHANGING INSTRUCTIONS

• clients can change into their robe or wrap and remove their shoes in a changing room or the treatment room

• Explain what clothing can be removed (shoes, restrictive pants, bras)

• Let the client know the neck and shoulders are usually bare for facials

• Dark fabric will collect lint from sheets, so it is best to remove clothing that will be under sheets

• Instruct client on how to prepare for the treatment and how to put on the facial wrap

ASSIST CLIENT ONTO BED

• show client how to get on the facial bed safely and where to position their head

• Assist the client in getting comfortable

DRAPE AND ADJUST FOR COMFORT

• drape the clients hair

• Adjust the pillow, bolster, and linens

• Client should feel relaxed from the very beginning

BASIC FACIAL TREATMENT PROCEDURE

1. Client consultation (review of contraindications, discuss completed client intake form, signing of consent form)

2. Client draping and esthetician hand washing

3. Initial skin analysis and continue client consultation (treatment plan creation)

4. Warm towels (optional) and facial cleansing with appropriate cleanser and toner

5. In-depth skin analysis

6. Exfoliation procedure (optional) *facial device option : high frequency*

7. Massage (massage and mask steps can be reversed)

8. Softening with steam or warm towels (can also steam during massage or exfoliation)

9. Extractions and/or deep pore cleansing (if applicable)

10. Mask (clay, hydrating, or any type appropriate for client) *facial device option : galvanic *

11. Toner

12. Serums, eye treatments, and lip treatments

13. Moisturizer

14. Daily sun protection products

15. Service completion, including post consultation and home care

SUGGESTED TIMING

• setup time : 5 minutes

• Consultation : 3-5 minutes

• Draping : 2 minutes

• Towels : 2 minutes

• Cleansing : 3-5 minutes

• Skin analysis : 5 minutes

• Exfoliation : 8-10 minutes

• Steam or towels : 5 minutes

• Extractions : 10 minutes

• Massage : 10 minutes

• Mask : 8-10 minutes

• Toner : 1 minute

• Moisturizer : 1 minute

• Post consultation : 5 minutes

• Total time : 60 minutes

ACNE FACIAL

• setup time : 5 minutes

• Consultation : 3-5 minutes

• Draping : 3-5 minutes

• Towels : 2 minutes

• Cleansing : 3-5 minutes

• Skin analysis : 5 minutes

• Exfoliation : 5 minutes

• Steam or towels : 5 minutes

• Extractions : 10 minutes

• Massage : skip or brief

• Mask : 8-10 minutes

• Toner : 1 minute

• Moisturizer : 1 minute

• Post consultation : 5 minutes

• Total time : 50 minutes

EXPRESS FACIAL

• setup time : 5 minutes

• Consultation : brief

• Draping : 2 minutes

• Towels : 2 minutes

• Cleansing : 3-5 minutes

• Skin analysis : brief

• Exfoliation : 8-10 minutes

• Steam or towels : 5 minutes

• Extractions : skip

• Massage : skip or brief

• Mask : brief

• Toner : 1 minute

• Moisturizer : 1 minute

• Post consultation : 5 minutes

• Total time : 30 minutes

SKIN ANALYSIS CHECKLIST : LOOK, TOUCH, ASK, LISTEN

1. LOOK for any obvious skin conditions and note the skin type

2. TOUCH the skin, noting its elasticity, softness, texture, and skin condition

3. ASK questions while analyzing (continue consultation), analyze pore size, hydration level, pigmentation, muscle tone, broken capillaries, facial wrinkles, signs of skin disorders, and so on

4. Choose the products

5. Note the information on the clients chart (can be doe before, during, or after the facial)

INITIAL CONSULTATION

• determines the products and procedures to be used and gives you time to discuss your recommended treatment as well as begin to discuss the clients home care needs

• Review clients completed initial consultation form

• CONSENT FORM

TREATMENT PLAN OPTIONS

• CLEANSING (cream, liquid, mousse, gel, steam hot or cold)

• EXFOLIATION (AHA, BHA, enzymes, microdermabrasion, rotary brush)

• ADVANCED PROTOCOLS (galvanic, high frequency, microcurrent)

• MASSAGE (oil, cream, gel, serum)

• MASK (sheet, cream, mud/clay, alginate, mineral)

CLEANSING

• cleanse to remove impurities and makeup before the in-dept analysis and treatment

• proper cleansing is imperative to the success of your facial

• cream based for more dry or mature skin

• mousse for combination skin

• gels or liquids for oilier skin

• before cleansing remove eye and lip makeup

• before cleansing contacts must be removed

• avoid over-rubbing or overstimulating the skin

SKIN ANALYSIS CHECKLIST (LOOK, TOUCH, ASK, LISTEN)

1. look for any obvious skin conditions and note the skin type

2. touch the skin, noting its elasticity, softness, texture, and skin condition

3. continue the consultation, asking questions while analyzing (analyze pore size, hydration level, pigmentation, muscle tone, broken capillaries, facial wrinkles, signs of skin disorders)

4. chose products

5. note the information on the clients chart (can be done before, during, or after the facial)

MECHANICAL EXFOLIATION

• use of a rotary brush or microdermabrasion

• Gently removes dead skin cells and aids in deeper cleansing

GRANULAR OR MANUAL EXFOLIATION

• use of a granular product, such as honey and jojoba beads or rice bran wax

• Help remove dead skin cells and debris by manipulation with the fingertips

CHEMICAL EXFOLIATION

• such as enzyme, AHA, BHA, azelaic acid, or kojic acid

• Can be chosen based on level of accumulation of dead skin cells and skin sensitivity

DEINCRUSTATION

• process used to soften and emulsify sebum and comedones (blackheads) in the follicles

STEAMER

• nozzle is placed approximately 18 inches away from the client

• no longer than 10 minutes

• Do not use on inflamed, hypersensitive, or rosacea skin

EXTRACTION

• manual removal of impurities and comedones

MASSAGE

• promotes physiological relaxation, stimulates blood circulation, helps muscle tone, cleanses skin of impurities, softens sebum, helps slough off dead skin cells, helps relieve muscle pain, provides sense of well being

COMPLETING THE SERVICE

1. Explain to client what to do next (ex: meet you outside in the waiting room)

2. Recommend products and show them (write them a home care instruction sheet)

3. Explain you will also record the products you recommend in their file

4. Recommend they reschedule once a month for a facial and any other beneficial service

5. Ask them what products they would like to take home

6. Thank them for coming (let them know you enjoyed meeting them)

POST FACIAL CHECKLIST

• remove gloves and wash your hands

• Say goodbye to the client after the consulatation

• Rebook the client and make sure they have taken products for home use

• Make client chart notes

• Write up retail sales

• Prepare room for next client or end of day

• Wear gloves during cleaning procedures

POST SERVICE EQUIPMENT / ROOM CHECKLIST

• clean wax machine and turn it off at the end of day

• Clean and disinfect steamer (refill with distilled water)

• Wipe and disinfect the equipment used

• Clean all containers and wipe off dirty product containers with a disinfectant

• Clean and disinfect all counters, sinks, surfaces, and floor mats

POST TREATMENT SUPPLIES CHECKLIST

• wash and disinfect brushes, spatulas, tweezers, and other multi-use implements used during the process

• Clean and disinfect bowls and other multi-use items (dry and store properly)

• If there is an autoclave on the premise, put multi use implements in for sterilization

• Remove dirty linens and remake the bed

• Turn off the bed warmer

• Put lines, towels, and sheets in hamper

• Change disinfectant to comply with state regulations

• Remove or change towels n the workstation tables

• Put away supplies

• Put away supplies

POST TREATMENT SINGLE USE ITEM CHECKLIST

• place soiled items such as gloves in a covered waste bin

• Place disposable extraction lancets in sharps container

HOME CARE CONSULTATION

• block out about 15 minutes to explain proper home care

• have them sit in a well lit area with a handheld mirror (so they can see the talked about conditions)

• expalin in simple terms the clients skin conditions and infrom them how you propose to treat the conditions and ow often treatments should be administered (in the spa and at home)

• set out products you want the client to purchase (explain each product, how to use them, what order to use them)

• important to have retail products available

EXPRESS FACIAL

• professional service designed to improve the appearance of the skin that takes less than 30 minutes

• 15-30 minutes

EXPRESS FACIAL STEPS

1. Brief consultation

2. Properly drape client and wash your hands

3. Analyze the skin with magnifying lamp

4. Perform a cleansing to remove makeup (rinse well)

5. Perform exfoliation or facial massage (remove exfoliant and tone skin)

6. Apply mask for approximately 10 minutes

7. Remove mask

8. Apply moisturizer and sunscreen

9. Recommend treatment for next visit

10. Recommend home care

DRY SKIN

• usually the result of underactive sebaceous glands that produce sebum

• skin appears coarse, tight, dull in color, and often with visible lines and wrinkles

• may become dry from overexposure to the sun and wind, harsh soaps, poor diet, lack of fluid intake, medication, and environmental factors and aging

TREATMENT GOAL FOR DRY SKIN

• hydrate the skin with rich masks and creamy cleansers as well as a gentle form of exfoliation to remove the dead, dry skin cells and prevent them from accumulating on the surface

TREATMENTS FOR DRY SKIN

• serums and creams can balance and protect skin

• gentle enzyme peel, gentle alpha hydroxy acid peel, light microdermabrasion

• for a mask : peptides, hyaluronic acid or emollient, natural ingredients such as seaweed or a thermal mask

• massage and galvanic machine

• LED

• moisterizing cream with an oil base, antioxidants, and a full spectrum sunscreen

DEHYDRATED SKIN

• most common skin problem

• major cause is evaporation and loss of sebum from the surface of the skin due to harsh drying soaps, alkalis, drier months, heat, and climate change

• skin may have enough oil but skill feel dry and flaky

TREATMENT GOAL FOR DEHYDRATED SKIN

• restore internal skin hydration and retain inner moisture by preventing transepidermal water loss

• conentrate on hydrating and nourishing treatments that deliver the highest amounts of moisture to the skin

• massage with the use of serums

TWEL

• trans epidermal water loss

AGING AND MATURE SKIN INGREDIENTS

• needs antioxidants

• vitamin a

• vitamin b3

• vitamin c

• vitamin e

• minerals

• green tea

• grapeseed extract

• AHA

• hyaluronic acid

• sodium hyaluronate

• sodium PCA

• glycerin

• peptides

• lipids

• polyglucans

• coenzyme Q10

• liopsomes

AGING AND MATURE SKIN TREATMENT GOALS

• hydrate and revitalize the skin

• establish regularly scheduled skin evaluations and sin analysis

• ongoing program of anti-aging treatments done in a series

TREATMENTS FOR MATURE AND AGING SKIN

• extended massage with moisterizing serum and cream

• peptide, collagen, and hydrating masks

• use procedures similar to those for dry skin

• products for reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles

• thermal mask force feeds nutrients and helps soften appearance of the skin

• firming products

• AHA treatments and products to exfoliate

• light therapy, iontophoresis, and galvanic and microcurrent are effective

TREATMENT GOAL FOR SENSITIVE AND ROSACEA SKIN

• indentify and avoid those stimuli that provoke a sensitive, sensitized or rosacea response

• provide the skin with topical application of ingredients that can help calm and soothe the appearance of the skin (seaweed, silver, quercetin, rutin, olive oil, olive leaf extracts, calamine, calcium carbonate, green tea, allantoin)

• Help maintain the skin’s protective moisture barrier by using fatty acids, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, niacimamide, linoleic acid, squalene, phospholipids, lecithin, evening primrose oil, tocopherol (vitamin E), and ascorbyl palmitate (vitamin C), and low percentages of an AHA such as lactic acid.

• Encourage the client to consult a dermatologist when experiencing severe sensitive skin or rosacea flare-ups.

• For home care, advise these clients to avoid vasodilators that dilate capillaries: heat, the sun, spicy foods, and stimulating products.

CONTRAINDICATIONS FOR SENSITIVE AND ROSACEA SKIN

• stong exfloiants

• steam during treatment

• stimulating machines or manual massage

• drying products (ph 8 or higher)

• excessive heat (hot water, steam, towels)

TREATMENT GOAL FOR HYPERPIGMENTATION

• chemical exfoliation and brightening agents

GUIDELINES FOR HYPERPIGMENTAATION

• Ingredients that can help brighten the appearance of the skin include kojic acid, alpha arbutin, glycolic acid, mulberry, licorice root, azaleic acid, bearberry, and citrus such as lemon work to help reduce the appearance of dark spots (can be used with AHA or BHA)

• Harsh skin-bleaching agents such as hydroquinone (which is banned in several countries) may damage the skin and are controversial.

• Remember that overexfoliating can cause damage and make hyperpigmentation worse—or conversely, cause hypopigmentation. Hypopigmentation results from reducing the appearance of melanin to the extent that lighter skin patches are now evident.

TREATMENT GOAL FOR OILY SKIN

• This type of skin can develop breakouts easily, so it is important to treat the skin with effective deep cleansing and purifying products

• Galvanic current, steam, and extractions can benefit oily skin to keep the pores free of comedones, and exfoliation with oil-controlling ingredients and BHA can lead to a great result as well.

ACNE SKIN

• blackheads, whiteheads, pimples, and pustules

TREATMENT GOAL FOR ACNE

• Eliminate blackheads from the skin that lead to more breakouts.

• Thorough cleansers and deep-cleansing masks that include AHA and BHA are recommended, and the facial treatment should include extractions.

• Extractions must be done gently and without pain to the client.

• Treatment care and client education regarding acne can be ongoing, and the results are rewarding for clients and the esthetician.

PRODUCTS FOR ACNE FACIALS

• BETA HYDROXY ACID (salicylic acid)

• SULFUR MASK

• ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS (glycolic, lactic, malic, citric, and tartaric acids)

• VITAMIN A (retinol)

• BENZOYL PEROXIDE

• KOJIC ACID

• SPOT BLEMISH TREATMENTS

• INCREASED VITAMIN C

  
  

ACNE CARE TIPS

• Eliminate comedogenic products. Oil-free does not mean “noncomedogenic.” Examine the ingredients on product labels to determine if they are appropriate for problem skin. (Refer to Chapter 6, Skin Care Products: Chemistry, Ingredients, and Selection, for ingredient information.)

• Control oil through proper product usage. Do not irritate the skin with harsh products.

• Exfoliate the skin. Keep the skin clean and exfoliated to keep sebum and cells from building up. Beta or alpha hydroxy acids are beneficial. Do not overuse these products. Once a day is sufficient.

• Protect against environmental aggressors, dirt, grease, UV light, humidity, and pollution.

• Practice stress reduction and good nutrition.

• Have regular facials once a month or as needed.

ACNE HOME CARE

• ask clients not to pick

• cleanser, exfoliant, mask, toner, lightweight hydrator, spf

• make sure ingredients arent irritating or contraindicated

• A foaming or gel cleanser with an exfoliant (AHA, salicylic acid, or benzoyl peroxide) is the best choice. Use an astringent with alcohol to prevent infection.

• lightweight, hydrating, oil-free moisturizer and spf

• clay mask is reccomended twice a week (with camphor and sulfur is best)

• other products may include hydrating and soothing masks to balance drying products

MANUAL COMEDONE REMOVAL

• guaze wrapped around gloved fingers

• dampened with astringent

• useful for majority of extractions

COMEDONE EXTRACTORS

• metal tools used for open comedone and sebacous filaments

COTTON SWABS

• smaller than fingertips

• useful around the nose area

LANCETS

• removal of milia or pustues (if state allows)

• small, sharp, pointed needle used to make a tiny opening in the epidermis

• cysts and nodules must be treated by a derm

SUCCESSFUL EXTRACTIONS

• pressure on skin surrounding the follicular wall

TREATMENT OF MILIA

• milia (small epidermal cysts referred to as tiny whiteheads)

• keratinized sebum trapped under the skin surface

• lancet

ACNE FACIAL TOOLS

• comedone extractor

• cotton

• cotton squares

• cotton swabs

• eye pads

• fresh linens

• trash can with closing lid

• guaze

• gloves

• hand cream

• lancet (if allowed)

• makeup remover

• mixing bowl

• robe for client

• scissors

• sharps container

• sink or basin of water

• spatula

• unscented tissues

ACNE FACIAL PROTOCOL

1. wash hands and put on gloves

2. deep cleansing

3. analyze the skin

4. steam and apply serum

5. proceed with deincrustation

6. perform extractions

7. apply astringent or toner

8. apply a clay based mask for deep cleansing and remove with towels

9. apply soothing mask and remove with wet cotton

10. apply moisterizer

11. perfrom galvanic or high frequency treatment

12. finish with post treatment consultation

TRAITS OF MENS SKIN

• larger pores

• more active sebacous glands

• characterized by excess oil and numerous blackheads

• often dehydrated from soaps, shampoo, hot showers

• can be both excessively oily and have surface dryness

• need hydration but also deep cleansing

• aging concerns

• hyperpigmentation concerns

TIPS FOR MALE CLIENTS

• tubes and pumps are easy to open and more male friendly

• home care should begin with only 2 products (cleanser and hydration)

• add sunscreen if they want 3 products

• educate them on sun protection and skin cancer facts

• suggest them shave in a downward direction

• eye products

• special male facial option

• avoid fragrant products

• keep service as clean and simple as possible

• be aware of the products and retail you reccomend

• simple products

• men dont want to leave with red irritated skin from extractions

• sponges and towels instead of cotton and guaze

FOLLICULITIS

• inflammation of the hair follicles

• and infection characterized by inflammation and pus

FOLLICULITIS BARBAE

• when the hair grows slightly under the skin and is trapped there causing a bacterial infection

• treatment goal os to alleviate the irritation, dry up and disinfect the pustules and desensitize the area

PSEUDOFOLLICULITIS

• razor bumps

• resembles folliculitis wit