Esthetics Chapter 6 Vocab

1. acai berry - berry rich in antioxidants, vitamins A, B, C, and E; protects, replenishes; helps heal damaged skin

2. alcohol - antiseptic and solvent used in perfumes, lotions, and astringents; specially denatured (SD) alcohol is a mixture of ethanol with a denaturing agent

3. algae - seaweed derivatives used as thickening agents, water-binding agents, and antioxidants; also nourishes the skin with vitamins and minerals

4. alginate - often seaweed based mask applied after a serum or treatment cream. They come in powder form and are mixed with water or serums, and dry to form a rubberized texture.

5. allantoin - derived from the root of the comfrey plant, helps to soften and protect while actively soothing skin

6. aloe vera - most popular botanical used in cosmetic formulations; emollient and film-forming gum resin with hydrating, softening, healing, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties.

7. alpha hydroxy acids - abbreviated AHAs; derived naturally from various plant sources and from milk; used for improving signs of aging, dry skin, and an uneven skin tone

8. alpha lipoic acid - a natural molecule found in every cell in the body; it is a powerful antioxidant and is soluble in water and oil

9. ampoules - small, sealed vials containing a single application of highly concentrated serum of extracts in a water or oil base

10. anhydrous - describes products that do not contain any water

11. argan oil - derived from the kernels of the argan tree; very light botanical oil used as an emollient

12. aromatherapy - the therapeutic use of plant aromas and essential oils for beauty and health treatment purposes; involves the use of highly concentrated, non oily, and volatile essential oils to induce such reactions as relaxation and invigoration, or to simply create a pleasant fragrance during a service

13. astringents - also called toners, these liquids help remove excess oil on the skin

14. azulene - derived from the chamomile plant and characterized by its deep blue color; has anti-inflammatory and soothing properties

15. benzoyl peroxide - ingredient with antibacterial properties commonly used to treat inflamed acne lesions

16. beta-glucans - ingredients used in anti-aging cosmetics to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating the formation of collagen

17. beta hydroxy acids - abbreviated BHAs; exfoliating organic acid; salicylic acid; milder than alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs). BHAs dissolve oil and are beneficial for oily skin

18. botanicals - ingredients derived from plants

19. calendula - anti-inflammatory plant extract

20. carbomers - ingredients used to thicken creams; frequently used in gel products

21. certified colors - inorganic color agents also known as metal salts; listed on ingredient labels as D&C (drug and cosmetic)

22. chamomile - plant extract with calming and soothing properties

23. chelating agents - a chemical added to cosmetics to improve the efficiency of the preservative.

24. chemical exfoliants - products with chemical agents used to dissolve dead skin cells and the intercellular matrix, or "glue", that holds them together (desmosomes)

25. clay masks - oil-absorbing purifying masks made with a clay base (such as kaolin or bentonite) that draw impurities to the surface of the skin as they dry and tighten

26. cleanser - soap or detergent that cleans the skin

27. coconut oil - derived from coconut, one of the fattiest and heaviest oils used as an emollient

28. coenzyme Q10 - powerful antioxidant that protects and revitalizes skin cells

29. color agents - substances such as vegetable, pigment, or mineral dyes that give products color

30. cosmeceutical - term used to describe high-quality products or ingredients intended to improve the skin's health and appearance

31. cosmetics - as defined by the FDA: articles that are intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance

32. cruelty-free - term used to describe products that are not tested on animals at any stage of the production process; nor are any of its ingredients tested on animals

33. delivery systems - systems that deliver ingredients to specific tissues of the epidermis

34. detergents - type of surfactant used as cleansers in skin-cleansing products

35. echinacea - derivative of the purple coneflower; prevents infection and has healing properties; used internally to support the immune system.

36. emollients - oil or fatty ingredients that lubricate, moisturize, and prevent water loss

37. emulsifiers - surfactants that cause oil and water to mix to form an emulsion; an ingredient that brings two normally incompatible materials together and binds them into a uniform and fairly stable blend

38. enzymes (for exfoliation) - provide gentle exfoliation and dissolve keratin proteins within dead skin cells on the surface

39. essential oils - oils derived from herbs; have many different properties and effects on the skin and psyche

40. exfoliants - mechanical and chemical products or processes used to exfoliate the skin

41. exfoliation - peeling or sloughing of the outer layer of skin.

42. fatty acids - emollients; lubricant ingredients derived from plant oils or animal fats

43. fatty alcohols - emollients; fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen

44. fatty esters - emollients produced from fatty acids and alcohols

45. fragrance-free - this term indicates that no additional ingredients have been added to a product to specifically provide a fragrance; however, it may already contain ingredients that have a scent

46. fragrances - give products their scent

47. fresheners - toners, skin-freshening lotions, and liquids applied after cleansing to soothe and hydrate

48. functional ingredients - ingredients in cosmetic products that allow the products to spread, give them body and texture, and give them a specific form such as a lotion, cream, or gel; preservatives are also functional ingredients

49. glycerin - formed by a decomposition of oils or fats; excellent skin softener and humectant; very strong water binder; sweet, colorless, oily substance used as a solvent and as a moisturizer in skin and body creams

50. glycoproteins - skin-conditioning agents derived from carbohydrates and proteins that enhance cellular metabolism and wound healing

51. gommage - also known as roll-off mask; exfoliating creams that are rubbed off the skin

52. green tea - powerful antioxidant and soothing agent; antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, skin brightening, and a stimulant

53. healing botanicals - substances from plants such as chamomile, aloe, plant stem cells, and botanical oils that help to heal the skin

54. hemp seed oil - derived from hemp seeds, very light botanical oil used as an emollient

55. herbs - hundreds of different herbs that contain phytohormones are used in skin care products and cosmetics; they heal, stimulate, soothe, and moisturize

56. humectants - ingredients that attract water; humectants draw moisture to the skin and soften its surface, diminishing lines caused by dehydration

57. hydrators - ingredients that attract water to the skin's surface

58. hydrophilic agents - ingredients that attract water to the skin's surface

59. hypoallergenic - refers to ingredients or products that may be less likely to cause allergic reactions

60. jojoba - oil widely used in cosmetics; extracted from the bean-like seeds of the desert shrub. Used as a lubricant and noncomedogenic emollient and moisturizer

61. keratolytic - agent that causes exfoliation, or sloughing, of skin cells

62. kojic acid - skin-brightening agent

63. lakes - insoluble pigments made by combining a dye with an inorganic material

64. lanolin - emollient with moisturizing properties; also an emulsifier with high water-absorption capabilities

65. lavender - antiallergenic, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antibacterial, balancing, energizing, soothing, and healing

66. licorice - anti-irritant used for sensitive skin; helps lighten pigmentation

67. lipids - fats or fat-like substances; lipids help repair and protect the barrier function of the skin

68. liposomes - closed lipid bilayer spheres that encapsulate ingredients, target their delivery to specific tissues of the skin, and control their release

69. liquid paraffin - emollient ingredient derived from petroleum sources

70. lubricant - coats the skin and reduces friction; mineral oil is a lubricant

71. mask - also known as pack or masques; concentrated treatment products often composed of herbs, vitamins, mineral clays, moisturizing agents, skin softeners, aromatherapy oils, beneficial extracts, and other beneficial ingredients to cleanse, exfoliate, tighten, tone, hydrate and nourish and treat the skin

72. mechanical exfoliants - products used as a physical method of polishing dead cells off the skin

73. methylparaben - one of the most frequently used preservatives because of its very low sensitizing potential; combats bacteria and molds; noncomedogenic

74. mineral oil - lubricant derived from petroleum

75. modelage masks - also known as thermal masks; thermal heat masks; facial masks containing special crystals of gypsum, a plaster-like ingredient

76. moisturizers - products formulated to add moisture to the skin.

77. natural,all natural - terms often used in marketing for skin care products and ingredients derived from natural sources

78. noncertified colors - colors that are organic, meaning they come from animal or plant extracts; they can also be natural mineral pigments.

79. oil soluble - compatible with oil

80. olfactory nerves - "smell" receptors in the nose that communicate with parts of the brain that serve as storehouses for emotions and memories

81. organic - term used to describe natural-sourced ingredients that are grown without the use of pesticides or chemicals

82. palm oil - derived from the oil palm tree; one of the fattiest and heaviest oils used as an emollient

83. papaya - natural enzyme used for exfoliation and in enzyme peels

84. parabens - one of the most commonly used groups of preservatives in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and food industries; provide bacteriostatic and fungistatic activity against a diverse number of organisms

85. paraffin wax mask - mask used to warm the skin and promote penetration of ingredients through the heat trapped under the surface of the paraffin

86. peptides - chains of amino acids that stimulate fibroblasts, cell metabolism, collagen, and improve skin's firmness. Larger chains are called polypeptides.

87. performance ingredients - ingredients in cosmetic products that cause the actual changes in the appearance of the skin

88. petrolatum - emollient ingredient derived from petroleum sources

89. pH adjusters - acids or alkalis (bases) used to adjust the pH of products.

90. phthalates - plasticizers used in skin care formulas to moisturize and soften skin, and to dissolve or blend ingredients

91. plant stem cells - derived from plants to protect or stimulate our own skin stem cells; health and anti-aging benefits

92. polyglucans - ingredients derived from yeast cells that help strengthen the immune system and stimulate the metabolism; hydrophilic and help preserve and protect collagen and elastin.

93. polymers - chemical compounds formed by combining a number of small molecules (monomers) into long chain-like structures; advanced vehicles that release substances onto the skin's surface at a microscopically controlled rate

94. preservatives - chemical agents that inhibit the growth of microorganisms in cosmetics; they kill bacteria and prevent products from spoiling

95. quaternium-15 - an all purpose preservative against bacteria mold and yeast. probably the greatest formaldehyde releaser among cosmetic preservatives; may cause dermatitis and allergies

96. retinol - natural form of vitamin A; stimulates cell repair and helps to normalize skin cells by generating new cells

97. salicylic acid - beta hydroxy acid with exfoliating and antiseptic properties; natural sources include sweet birch, willow bark, and wintergreen

98. seaweed - seaweed derivatives such as algae have many nourishing properties; known for its humectant and moisturizing properties, vitamin content, metabolism stimulation and detoxification, and aiding skin firmness

99. serums - concentrated liquid ingredients for the skin designed to penetrate and treat various skin conditions

100. sodium bicarbonate - baking soda; an alkaline inorganic salt used as a buffering agent, neutralizer, and a pH adjuster

101. squalene - derived from olives; desensitizes and nourishes; an emollient

102. sulfur - reduces the activity of oil glands and dissolves the skin's surface layer of dry, dead cells; commonly used in acne products

103. sun protection factor - abbreviated SPF. Ability of a product to delay sun induced erythema, the visible sign of sun damage. The SPF rating is based only on UVB protection, not UVA exposure.

104. tea tree oil - soothing and antiseptic; antifungal properties.

105. titanium oxide - inorganic physical sunscreen that reflects UV radiation.

106. toners - also known as fresheners or astringents; liquids designed to tone and tighten the skin’s surface

107. unscented - products formulated to have no smell; because most ingredients in a formulation do have an odor, more ingredients have to be added to neutralize the smell

108. urea - properties include enhancing the penetration abilities of other substances; anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, and deodorizing action that protects the skin's surface and helps maintain healthy skin

109. vegan - a product that is labeled vegan should not contain any animal ingredients or animal by-products

110. vehicles - spreading agents and ingredients that carry or deliver other ingredients into the skin and make them more effective

111. water soluble - mixable with water

112. witch hazel - extracted from the bark of the hamamelis shrub; can be a soothing agent or, in higher concentrations, an astringent

113. zinc oxide - mineral physical sunscreen ingredient that reflects UVA and UVB rays; also used to protect, soothe, and heal the skin; is somewhat astringent, antiseptic, and antimicrobial