Summary of History of Fashion

Summary of Course Topics (1840 - 1980)

1840 - 1850

  • Horsehair crinoline: A popular fashion trend characterized by a stiffened or structured petticoat under skirts.

  • 1848 - Birth of the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood: An artistic movement that aimed to bring greater sincerity and detail to art, opposing the conventional styles of the time.

  • 1850 - 1860: Introduction of significant innovations and events in fashion and art.

    • 1852 - Napoleon III becomes Emperor: Initiates the Second Empire period in France.

    • 1851 - Singer sewing machine: Revolutionized clothing production by making home sewing easier.

    • 1852 - Le Bon Marché: One of the first department stores, reflecting changes in retail.

    • 1856 - Aniline dyes: Introduced vibrant colors in fabric dyeing.

    • Crinoline cage: A structured underskirt used to enhance skirt shape.

    • Worth: Refers to Charles Frederick Worth, often considered the father of haute couture.

    • 1851 - Great Exhibition of the Works of Industry of All Nations in London: Showcased industrial and design achievements.

    • 1851 - Amelia Bloomer in London: Advocated reform for women's clothing and the bloomer costume.

1860 - 1870

  • Crinoline evolution: The style became flatter in front and fuller at the back, indicating change in silhouette.

  • 1861 - Morris and his friends create Morris, Marshall, Faulkner & Co.: An important firm in the Arts and Crafts movement.

1870 - 1880

  • 1870 - Fall of the Second Empire of Napoleon III: Marks a transition back to republicanism in France.

    • Tournure: A new skirt fashion that gained popularity until it fell out of fashion temporarily.

  • 1874 - First Impressionist exhibition in Paris: Showcased a radical new style in art.

  • 1875 - Arthur Liberty opens Liberty & Co.: A notable arts and crafts store in London, it became iconic for its fabrics and design.

1880 - 1890

  • 1881 - The Rational Dress Society: Advocated for more reasonable and practical clothing for women.

    • Tournure comeback: The fuller style of skirts regained popularity.

  • 1882 - Oscar Wilde in New York: Highlights the cultural exchange and influences of European art and fashion.

1890 - 1900

  • Fashion trends: Bell-shaped skirts and gigot sleeves became prominent.

  • 1897 - Wien Secession founded: A group including Gustav Klimt and Koloman Moser, significant in design and architecture.

1900 - 1910

  • 1908 - Les Nouvelles Merveilleuses: Alludes to new fashion styles.

  • 1908 - Les Robes de Paul Poiret: Illustrated designs showcased by Paul Iribe.

  • 1909 - Fortuny patents the Delphos Dress: A notable achievement in fashion innovation.

  • 1903 - Wiener Werkstätte founded by Josef Hoffmann and Koloman Moser: A collective that combined fine craftsmanship with modernity.

  • 1905 - Fauvist painters Henri Matisse & André Derain at Salon d’Automne: They were significant figures in the movement, impacting art and fashion.

  • 1907 - Picasso's Les Demoiselles d'Avignon: Often regarded as the inception of Cubism.

  • 1909 - Marinetti publishes the Manifesto Futurista: Represents a call for future-oriented artistic expression.

1910 - 1920

  • 1914 - 1918 - World War I: Significant turmoil affecting all aspects of life, including fashion.

  • 1911 - Paul Poiret: Established Maison Martine after traveling in Germany and Vienna.

  • 1913 - First Chanel shop in Deauville: Marks the advent of a new era in women's fashion.

  • 1915 - First Chanel atelier opens in Biarritz: Further cementing Chanel’s influence on fashion.

  • 1910 circa - Russian Cubofuturism: An artistic movement combining elements of Cubism and Futurism.

  • 1912 circa - Delaunay’s Orphism: Focused on color and movement.

  • 1913 - Russian Suprematism: An abstract art movement.

  • 1913 - Marcel Duchamp’s Bicycle Wheel - Dada in Zurich: A landmark in the development of Conceptual Art.

  • 1914 - Manifesto futurista del Vestito Antineutrale: A call for neutral clothing styles amidst the war.

  • 1917 - Picasso and Cocteau for Parade show: Collaboration in avant-garde theater.

  • 1919 - Walter Gropius establishes Bauhaus in Weimar: A school for art, architecture, and design.

1920 - 1930

  • 1929 - Wall Street Stock Crisis: Financial collapse signals the beginning of the Great Depression.

    • Cultural shifts: Short skirts, short hair, contrasting the prior extravagant styles.

    • Jeanne Lanvin and the Robe de style: Notable designer influencing fashion of the era.

  • 1920 - Thayat creates tuta: Innovates men's and women's fashions.

    • Collaboration between Vionnet and Thayat: Represents a merging of styles and techniques.

  • 1924 - Jean Patou models in America: Expanding French fashion influence.

  • 1926 - Vogue comparison of Chanel's Petit Robe Noir: Highlights the significance of the little black dress in fashion akin to Ford cars’ mass production.

  • 1922 - Victor Marguerite’s La Garçonne novel: Reflects the changing social norms of the time regarding women's roles.

  • 1924 - Arts and collaboration: Picasso, Cocteau, and Chanel work on Le Train Bleu show.

  • 1924 - André Breton’s Surrealist Manifesto: Defines principles of Surrealism, influencing creativity across various domains.

  • 1925 - Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris: Major exhibition showcasing modern design.

  • 1929 - Foundation of Union des Artistes Modernes (UAM): A collective promoting modern art and design.

1930 - 1940

  • 1935 - Italian attack on Ethiopia: Highlights geopolitical events affecting fashion through wartime sanctions.

  • 1939 - Germany invades Poland - World War II breaks out: Marked a significant change in global dynamics.

    • Fashion influence: Feminine pajamas, Baias cut, notable designers like Fulco di Verdura and Charles James.

  • 1932 - Chanel collection of diamond jewelry: Attribution of high fashion to luxury items.

  • 1935 - Ente Nazionale della Moda born: Aimed to regulate and develop fashion in Italy.

  • 1939 - Closure of Vionnet and Chanel ateliers: Represents war's impact on the fashion industry.

  • Hollywood glam: Iconic figures such as Marlene Dietrich and Joan Crawford rise.

1940 - 1950

  • 1940 - Italy enters the war alongside Germany: Impacts fashion industry through rationing.

  • 1940 - France occupied by Germans: Changes in fashion manufacturing and distribution.

  • 1944 - Liberation of France and Paris: Cultural resurgence following the war.

  • 1945 - End of World War II: Marks a return to normalcy and fashion evolution.

    • Utility Fashion: Introduced due to material rationing.

    • Claire McCardell: A key innovator in American fashion during this period.

    • Zootsuit trends in America, Zazou movement in France: Represents youth culture's push against wartime constraints.

1950 - 1960

  • 1954 - Vietnam conflict begins: Global political struggles influence cultural sentiments.

  • Diana Vreeland: Influential fashion editor redefining style narratives.

  • 1951 - First Italian fashion catwalk by Giorgini in Florence: Signaling a shift in fashion show culture.

    • Notable designers: Emilio Pucci, Sorelle Fontana, Roberto Capucci emerge.

  • 1954 - Coco Chanel’s return: Significant revival of her fashion house and ideas post-war.

  • Cultural icons and cinema: Roman Holiday featuring Audrey Hepburn, with figures like Maria Callas, Marilyn Monroe, and Elvis Presley, signifying shifts in public consciousness through media.

  • 1957 - Dior passes, Yves Saint Laurent takes over: Continues the legacy of storied French fashion houses.

1960 - 1970

  • 1965 - First air raids in Vietnam: Heightened awareness and protests influencing fashion.

  • 1968 - Demonstrations in Paris: Cultural revolts inspire new fashion movements.

  • 1969 - Moon landing, Woodstock festival: Marked pivotal moments in culture and fashion representation.

    • Palazzo Pajama styles: New fashionable loungewear emerging.

    • Mod and Space Age styles: Introduced by designers like Pierre Cardin and André Courrèges.

  • 1962 - Yves Saint Laurent opens maison: Introduces significant changes in women's fashion with sophisticated styles.

  • 1966 - Introduction of Le Smoking: Marks significant gender-fluid styling in women's attire.

  • Italian High Fashion shifts: Migration of catwalks from Florence to Rome.

    • Late 1960s cultural revolutions: Captured through icons such as Twiggy, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, and emerging pop culture.

1970 - 1980

  • Fashion trends: Emergence of styles like Hippie, Glam, and Punk.

  • Notable designers: Zandra Rhodes, Missoni, and Biba reflect divergent cultural influences in fashion.

  • 1973 - Battle of Versailles: Represents a high-stakes fashion event uniting French and American designers, showcasing innovation and rivalry.

  • Cultural shifts in fashion: Embodying a mix of style statements, marked by the rise of individualism in personal fashion.