EBSCO-FullText-26_01_2025

Introduction

• Article Title: The Enchanted Spectacle

• Author: Caroline Evans, Reader in Fashion Studies at Central Saint Martins College, London.

• Publication: Fashion Theory, Volume 5, Issue 3. pp.271-310.

• Key Themes:

  • Fashion shows as a theatrical and seductive spectacle.

  • Relationship to art, theater, film, consumerism, and commodification of femininity.

Historical Context of Fashion Shows

• Emergence of Fashion Shows:

  • Originated in the early 1900s with couture houses, department stores, and charity events.

  • Significant elements include marketing theatricalization and the intertwining of fashion with capitalist spectacle.

• Capitalism & Spectacle:

  • Guy Debord's notion of the "society of the spectacle" emphasizes how images obscure reality and utilize fashion shows to mask commercial intentions.

The Evolution of Models and Fashion Shows

• The Role of Models:

  • Living mannequins began in the 19th century; early fashion shows featured both live models and dummies in store displays.

  • Women as consumers in high society—objectified within the spectacle of fashion, reflecting class distinctions alongside their working-class counterparts.

• Cultural Implications:

  • Women navigate commodification of their image and identities through fashion consumption, shaping gender and class dialogues.

Theatricalization of Fashion

• Lady Duff Gordon (Lucile) and the First Mannequin Parades:

  • First mannequin parades claimed by Lady Duff Gordon, mirroring theatrical presentations.

  • Focus on creating entertaining environments for showcasing fashion, blurring lines between products and performers.

• Arts and Performances:

  • Fashion shows drew inspiration from theater and created narratives through showcases, often involving elaborate setups and dramatizations.

Notable Couturiers and Their Innovations

• Charles Frederick Worth:

  • Innovated the concept of house mannequins in fashion presentations.

  • Established a certain style and extravagance by intertwining the mannequin's social presence within elite circles.

• Paul Poiret:

  • Transformed parades into visual spectacles, combining the commercial and artistic elements of fashion through elaborate shows and thematic displays.

The Impact of Gender and Class on Modeling

• Gender Representation:

  • Women are both the subjects and objects within fashion narratives; modeling implicates complex relationships of desire, commerce, and identity.

• Class Dynamics:

  • The representation of upper-class women and the fetishization of their bodies reflects broader societal norms and shifts, linking back to the history of femininity and labor.

The Fashion Show as Theater:

• Emergence of the Modern Catwalk:

  • Development into a sophisticated performance space showcasing artifice, identity, and gender construct.

  • The evolution of runway shows in the 20th century reflects an ongoing dialogue between fashion as commercial art and personal identity.

The 1960s and Beyond

• Innovations by Mary Quant and Pierre Cardin:

  • Contribution of music, movement, and modern styling marked a departure from traditional fashion shows, offering dynamic presentations.

• Celebrity Culture and Supermodels:

  • Rise of 'supermodels' in the late 20th century, changing the market and promoting the spectacle of fashion where personality became intertwined with the act of modeling.

The Spectacle of Contemporary Fashion Shows

• The Influence of Media and Technology:

  • Fashion shows transformed into massive media events, using photography, film, and high-profile celebrity involvement to broaden reach and influence.

• The Focus on Individuality:

  • Contemporary shows increasingly showcase thematic narratives, conclusion on performance, and spectacle—culminating in high-energy, unconventional presentations.

Conclusion

• The interconnectedness of fashion, culture, and identity culminates at the runway, illuminating complexities beneath the glamorous presentation of fashion as commodity.

• Fashion shows now embody a theatricalization of modernity where identity is fluid, highlighting the ongoing evolution and cultural significance of fashion in society.