LANDFORMS AND LANDSCAPES TEST

Swash is the forward movement of water up the beach after a wave breaks. It carries sand and sediments onto the shore, helping to build up the beach.
Backwash is the water flowing back into the sea after a wave retreats. It can pull sand and sediments away from the beach, contributing to erosion.

How waves change the coast:

Change & Environment: Waves cause erosion by wearing away cliffs and shorelines, and deposition by building up beaches and sand dunes.
Interconnection & Scale: Large, powerful waves (from storms) can reshape coastlines quickly, while smaller waves create gradual changes over time.

This is what happens to sand on a beach where the waves strike directly onto the beach:

1) Sand moves straight in and out – The waves push sand up the beach and pull it straight back, leading to minimal lateral movement.
2) No longshore drift – Unlike angled waves, which create longshore drift, direct waves do not transport sand along the coast.
3) Steeper beach formation – Repeated direct wave action can move sand offshore, making the beach steeper over time.

A grain of sand follows a zigzag pattern along the shore due to angled waves.

Rocks erode at different rates due to hardness (soft rocks like sandstone erode faster than hard rocks like granite) and exposure (constant waves, wind, and chemical weathering speed up erosion).

Constructive waves add sand to a beach because they have strong swash (which carries sand up the beach) and weak backwash (which doesn’t pull much sand away). This builds up the beach over time.

Different ways humans use coastlines:

•Tourism – People visit for swimming, surfing, and holidays.

•Fishing – Catching fish and farming seafood.

•Transport – Ships move goods and people.

•Living – Many people build homes near the coast.

•Industry – Factories, wind farms, and oil rigs.

Coastal protection – Sea walls and dunes stop erosion.

1. Define swash and backwash.
   - Swash is the movement of water up the beach after a wave breaks.
   - Backwash is the movement of water down the beach, returning to the sea

2. Explain how waves contribute to coastal erosion.
   - Waves erode the coastline through hydraulic action, abrasion, attrition, and
   solution. Strong waves can wear away rocks and carry away sediment.

3. What happens to sand on a beach where longshore drift is occurring?
   • Waves push sand along the shore – Waves hit the beach at an angle,
   carrying sand up the shore in the direction of the wave.
   • Sand moves in a zigzag pattern – The backwash (water flowing back into
   the ocean) pulls sand straight down due to gravity, creating a repeated
   side-to-side movement.
   • Beaches change shape over time – Sand is gradually removed from some
   areas (causing erosion) and deposited in others (creating new landforms
   like sand spits or bars).

5. Why do softer rocks erode faster than harder rocks?
- Softer rocks, such as sandstone, are more easily broken down by wave action,
while harder rocks, such as granite, resist erosion.

6. What is the difference between constructive and destructive waves?
- Constructive waves build up beaches by depositing sand and sediment, while
destructive waves erode beaches by removing material.

7. List five ways humans interact with and use coastal areas:
1. Tourism and recreation
2. Fishing
3. Transportation and shipping
4. Coastal settlements and housing
5. Industrial activities

8. Bonus Question: Write down 3 new facts about coastal landforms.

• Tombolos – Natural bridges formed by sediment connecting an island to the mainland.
• Arches to Stacks – Sea caves erode into arches, which collapse into stacks over time.
• Diverse Beaches – Beaches can be made of sand, pebbles, shells, or volcanic rock.

1. Define the following terms:
- Erosion: The process by which rocks and soil are worn away by natural forces
such as wind and water.
- Deposition: The process by which sediments, soil, and rocks are added to a
landform or landmass.

2. How do waves change the shape of the coastline over time?
- Waves cause erosion, transportation, and deposition, leading to the formation
of features like cliffs, bays, headlands, and beaches.

3. What is longshore drift, and how does it affect the movement of sand?
Longshore drift is the process by which sand and other sediments move along a coastline due
to waves hitting the shore at an angle.

1. Waves Approach at an Angle – Waves carry sand up the beach at an angle (swash).

2. Gravity Pulls Water Back – The water then moves straight back down the beach due
to gravity (backwash).

3. Sand Moves Along the Shore – This repeated movement causes sand to slowly shift
along the coastline in the direction of the waves.

Over time, longshore drift can change the shape of beaches, create sandbars, and even lead to the formation of features like spits.

4. Describe how a sea stack is formed.
- A sea stack forms when waves erode a headland, creating a sea arch. When the
arch collapses, a column of rock (the stack) is left standing.

5. Why do some coastal areas have more sand than others?
- Coastal areas with constructive waves tend to accumulate more sand, while
those with strong currents or destructive waves lose sand.

6. Describe the main characteristics of a destructive wave.
- Destructive waves are high-energy waves with a strong backwash that erodes
the coastline and removes beach material.

7. Identify five human activities that can contribute to coastal erosion.
1. Sand mining
2. Coastal construction (e.g., seawalls, piers)
3. Deforestation near coastlines
4. Climate change and rising sea levels
5. Dredging and port activities

8. Bonus Question: Write down 3 interesting facts about coastal processes.
• Waves Shape Coasts – Waves erode, transport, and deposit materials,
forming beaches and spits.
• Storms Speed Up Change – Cyclones can erode beaches and reshape
coastlines overnight.
• Longshore Drift Forms Landforms – It moves sand along the coast,
creating spits and tombolos