battery part 2

As far as your battery hold downs go, a lot of different designs. This is a wedge style. GM uses these, so does Ford. 
They essentially have a built-in lift on the bottom of the batteries and when you put the wedge in there, it kind of traps it in place. These common holddown styles have been used for many, many years. When you're gonna be dealing with these, if the batteries come gonna come out, if it looks corroded, if it looks rusted, if it looks any sketchiness whatsoever, quote a new one. 
Because if it breaks and you don't recommend a new one, whose fault is it? It's ours. So, it's much better to quote it and not need it than not to quote it. 
Keep me blaster, penetrating oil is your friend. Anytime we can spray this stuff ahead of time, it's gonna benefit you too. You can buy these kits for about 10 bucks at Walmart. 
They have universal ones, especially if your stuff is a little bit on the questionable side. So, reasons for battery failure. Damage battery cases. 
So if a car has been in an accident, probably took a pretty nice shock through the body. And these batteries can leak out electrolytes. Remember, this electrolyte is extremely corrosive. 
It is strong. It will burn right through your clothes. So if this ever were to happen and you had battery asses leaking out on the floor in the car, what should we put on it? 
Red spray. Hmm? Not the red spray. 
How do you neutralize an acid? Something easy. Not acid. 
You buy right in the dollar store at Walmart, big boxes. Of what? 80s or something? 
Baking soda. So it may fizz a bit, but it will neutralize. And then we can clean it up safely, not have to worry about being home. 
But when it comes to that stuff, make sure you're wearing gloves, and sprinkle it down, let it soak it up. I've also had some people use sand because that's what they had. Singing works pretty good for a lot of stuff. 
Um, So, Damage to the case. How about undercharging? Does anybody have a grandmother that only drives about five miles, about once a week? 
Yeah. So, you think that battery's gonna be fully charged, you think it's gonna be ready to row, ready to rip? Probably not. 
We used to have that at my last shop, especially. And even at the dealer, we'd have these new cars coming in. They're like, oh, it needs a battery. 
It's under warranty. These people aren't driving the cars enough. Batteries are not fully charged unless you take that thing on the highway and you let her eat. 
I told you. So you need to let it drive for a decent distance, so the alternator can really do its thing and recharge the battery. You just idling is not enough. 
So good drives will recharge batteries. They will never be fully charged, and they will end up dealing with solvation issues if you don't drive them. Overcharging is another issue that we deal with. 
Okay, let's put it there. So, when it overcharges, the battery will swell. It almost like it's got a gut. 
It will pop right out on the on the bottom side. It smells, once you smell a battery that's cooking, it's one of those smells that you never forget. Can they potentially explode? 
Yes. If they're overcharged. But generally, we'll start hearing steam. 
They'll boil almost. They'll start to swell, and so those are all your big signs. Now, generally, if you have issues with overcharging, it's because the regulators want bad in the alternator. 
Vibration. can also cause these batteries to shed and prematurely fail. His material is actively being knocked off the plates. We also have shorts between the plates, which cause dead cells. 
So when you're positive, and your negative plates actually touch each other. Now, so what gas is released from the battery when it's being charged? Hydrogen. 
So other types of batteries that we may deal with are nickel metal hydride batteries, and these were used on the hybrids for many years. So our Priuses, they're all nickel metal hydride. They are good batteries. 
They do last for a decent amount of time. And, you know, further time, they were not as expensive to produce. Now, we used to also use nickel metal hydride batteries and a lot of our power tools. 
The downside with nickel metal hydride is, as voltage gets low, what happens to performance? Exclose. Starts to slow down. 
Uh... But when they made the big switch to lithium ion, there was a major performance difference. Does anybody ever use a power drill impact with a lithium ion? 
What does it do? keeps going. It will go full board until boop done. 
So, lithium on batteries have that pro. Like I said, they're starting to do sodium ion batteries as well. So I wouldn't be surprised, especially if pricing comes down on that. 
If that's going to be a huge swing. Is there kind of using Lukiamion batteries or? Not really. 
I mean, most makes have switch to it. As far as recharge rates and longevity, lithium ion is better than nipplemental hydra. Most hybrid vehicles will use that implemental hydride, or they will be using your lithium ion battery packs. 
I'm trying to remember that. I think it's Paying a Sonic is one of the biggest battery distributors in the world. Uh, and they're also one of the main dealers for eurolithium ion batteries. 
So when a battery works, it gets hot, just like you do. So, especially if I'm dealing with an ED or if I'm dealing with a hybrid, these packs, especially if the vehicle is being solely powered by the pack, it's gonna get hot. So a lot of these hybrid vehicles will have their own separate cooling systems for the battery packs. 
EBs have full on pooling systems just for the batteries. What happens when resistance gets high? Excuse me, when he gets high. 
Resistance increases. So the best things we can do for our electronic systems, our batteries, is to keep them cool, so they run efficiently, and they last. So, a lot of times with your hybrid systems, they use an air cooling system and it can be piped in through its own separate fan. 
We can also have, ooh, AC air plug into that air system as well. Most electric vehicles, though, your EVs, they don't use the air systems because these packs get way too hot for that. What they actually do is they use actual point to flow over the packs to full heat out of them. 
For some reason, that video pops up, but that particular one was of a hybrid pack in the back of our vehicles. So I had... I had a There it is. 
Where is Bob? I've actually got a hybrid battery pack out of one of our previous right down here. We're dealing with a substantial amount of voltage in this pack. 
The thing is, it's actually not one big battery. What's actually in them is a bunch of battery module packs that look like this. And these packs are wired in series and in parallel. 
Now, we're gonna spend a little bit more time on that. So which battery rating is tested at 0 degrees? Oh, cranky. 
Cold pranking names. Battery electrolyte is a mixture of water and what? Silver downside. 
Sulfur, gas. Which battery rating is expressed in minutes? Observe capacity. 
Each cell of an automotive 12 volt battery should produce how many volts? One, one, one, one. All right. 
So... These batteries here. If this battery produces two volts, and this battery produces two volts, if these are wired in parallel, how many volts do they produce? 
Two gold. How many imps? Well, if this has 10 amps and this has 10 amps, how many amps do you think they produce together? 
20 am. See where I'm going here? So if I hook up batteries in parallel, the voltage stays the same, but the amperage adds up. 
So I can get a lot more work with 2 batteries in parallel. But if I put them in series, what happens to my battery voltage? That decreases. 
It adds up. So then I have 4 volts, but how many amps do I have? So... 10 inches. 
So remember I talked about my experiments during COVID. We were kind of trapped at the house. couldn't do much on cars. So I worked on my son's Power Wheels Jeep. 
Why not? You know? So we would go for a walk every day, and this Jeep would only last one loop around the circle in our development. 
I said, I wonder if I can, you know, up those numbers. These are rookie numbers, right? So, what I did was, I bought another battery for that thing, and I hooked it up in parallel. 
I'm still only working with 12 holts, but guess what? We could go around twice. Because I doubled my average. 
We know Amperage does all the work, right? So then I'm thinking, I'm like, you know what? I saw an episode of Dude Dad, and you were doing Papa Wheelies. 
Oh, you know what? If you increase voltage, you can actually make them go faster. So if I increase voltage, motors spin faster. 
If I increase amperage, they spend longer. So what I did was I hooked them up in series. And I went from a 12 volt to a 24 volt system, and the Jeep was popping wheelies. was kind of dangerous. 
So I didn't keep that for very long. But that's what happens when you hook up batteries in different variations. So if I need to achieve 48 volts, I could put four batteries in series, right? 
But how long would it last? Not very. So if I wanted a decent 48 volt system, I'd probably want to do eight batteries, right? 
So, I would do... 4 groups of parallel. And then I would put them in series. I'd still achieve 48 volts, right, but I would get double the cold cranking hand. 
So diesels themselves, diesel trucks, they generally have two big batteries. They're both 12 bull batteries, 12 and 12. But if I have a 1000 amps on one and I have a 1000 amps on the other, I got 2000 cold pranking amps available on my startup. 
So your truck, Trey? Next time you look at the batteries on that one, take a look. What is your total amount of gold frame? 
This is probably pretty decent. There's big old diesels, they pull a lot of current when they start. Especially on a cold day like the day. 
All right, questions about batteries. I know that was really exciting. You can only get too excited about batteries. 
Would you be able to diagram the multiple batteries in the series currently? Or any series and apparently? We could. 
We could. So. So, let's say I had a battery. 
And you know what? I actually always like to go back when I was a kid. How many have changed batteries in a remote control car lately? 
That's good, right? I know you have. Anybody else? 
So, how many AAA batteries are generally in a remove control car? Okay. Four. 
Four. There's about four is, right? Do you remember how many volts each battery produces? 
Nope, you just put it in there and say, work, sucker. So, here's a AAA. So I got a one.5 . 
One and a half folds. So I got one triple A, that produces 1.5 volts, right? Well, if I have my batteries hooked in series, right? 
I have how many goals? Six. Three, and three, for a total of six holes, right? 
And that would be kind of how I had it hooked up. Now, let's say that I wanted to go to 12 holes. If I put four more AAAs in there, and then we had a split... 
How many volts do I have? 12 volts or 6 volts? Oh, what? 
This is yours. You have a really connected curve, though. Oh. 
Is paradox? Six weeks. It's parallel. 
I got six poles. But if we're looking at our amperage numbers on these here... Let's see. 
All right, don't want to tell me that's 6 months. Hold on. So let's say if I had, say, one a.m. I got six inchs here, right? 
Well, since this is in parallel, how many total amps do I have? I got six volts, but I got how many Ms? Eight. 
One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight. So, I got eight amps there. I will. 
Six volts, 8 a.m. Now, instead of having a batteries in parallel, have them all stacking in a line. Oh, so they're all in series? Yeah. 
So if I had them volunteers, how many would do we want to have? So let's just do, as far as as many as I can drive, fordraw. And remember, I got to have an even number, because, you know, it just feels right. 
So I got three. I got three. I got three. 
How many volts is that? Nine. I got nine volts, sir. 
So that would be... two, four, six... six, nine volts, or excuse me, six triple A's wired in series, gives me a total of nine volts. But if they're all in series, if I only had one amp per battery... Yeah, six. 
How does that work? Give me six hours. Well, no, I'm fine. 
I didn't... We got one in. Because they're all in series. 
So whenever you hook up batteries, if I hook them up in series, I increase my value. of voltage. It goes up each one. So each one of these nine volts were 1.5 volts apiece. 
So if I stacked them in series, I would just add up my voltages. So I could get a high amount of voltage. That's great. 
But it doesn't last very long. So whenever you have big packs, especially like that, with a hybrid, we have these. These are my batteries. 
So now, these are, I can't remember exactly how many holes. It could be six volts a piece. I'm gonna have a bunch of these hooked up in parallel, and then I'm gonna put them in series. 
So I kind of have the best of both worlds there. So I have high voltage, but I also have longevity when it comes to battery design. So, your laptop batteries, they're probably hooked up in series. 
Some of them. Some of them, especially if you were to break them loose, you may have a total of 4 battery cells, and we have 2 of them that are in parallel, and 2 of them that are in parallel, and then they are going in series. So I still get my 12 volts there, but I have a lot more hampers to work with. 
So my battery can actually last through the whole day. Now, as far as battery goes, our battery life goes, you never really want to fully charge a battery to 100%, right? But anybody ever heard that? 
Yeah. You actually stress test your batteries a bit more that way. So they said, if you have a device and you want the battery to last as long as it possibly can, the maximum amount you really want to charge it to is about 80%. 
And then they also say, to prevent health from getting too low, you don't really want to discharge lower than 30%. So we kind of have this window here of 50%, and if you can keep your devices between those windows. So no, higher than 80%, no, lower than 30%, generally battery life is much longer. 
So if anybody with an EV that normally drives a car every week, they don't charge it to 100%. Now, when you go to like a fast charger or anything like that, generally they will do 100% because they're trying to get somewhere on a trip and they need that battery to be fully charged. But very rarely do you want to do that. 
Now, has anybody ever plugged their phone in and went to smart charging mode? Yeah, anything like that? How long are these phones supposed to last for? 
Till the warranty runs out, right? Do you think your phone cares if it goes 100%? No, because they're like, you know what? 
It doesn't matter, 'cause this thing, it's days are numbered to begin with. So if you are picky about that, think about that when you charge your phone up, too. Maybe don't charge it up all the way. 
Maybe don't let it get to zero when it dies. Because you're stressing the battery at that point. You keep it in a comfortable zone, it will last much longer. 
All right. Let's get into battery service. We'll go about a quarter of the way in, then we'll take another break. 
We'll have another four go out there. We'll give you all about 10 minutes. And then we'll start on the presentation. 
We'll work on our rotations at the end of the day. As soon as we're done with this one, then we'll kind of go into full rotations for the midterm part 4 board. Say, have I ever seen this before? 
Pop the Hood, and that's what you see. It's like a sick, morbid Easter bunny. So what is this? 
What associates this? What is in your mind? What is it doing? 
It's corrosion. But what is it doing to the battery? It's leeching. 
So this one here, see how it's on the positive post of the battery? So, corrosion is resistance, right? So if I've got a big old Easter bunny bit of corrosion on my positive cable, where all of my power comes out of when the car is driving. 
What does that mean? How much voltage do I actually have available at the fuse boxes now? I'll figure some place to make it. 
Yeah. Could I be losing a bolt right off the top before it even gets to the fuse box? Yeah. 
So, from here on out, when you see this, I want you to think of this as being a big old fat leech that's eaten up voltage. It's eating up potential before our fuse box even gets it. I had one of our public safety cars. 
They brought it over, and they said, I don't know what's going on with this thing. We just put a battery in it, and it doesn't start. It was, it was, you know, cranking slow, and then now it doesn't start. go right out there. 
We pop the hood. This is during class. And it had this on the battery. 
Right, he said it was brand new. That's what he said. It was replaced about 6 months before. 
So his new and my new are 2 different news. But odds are, this one had an issue with corrosion on the battery before. They may have somewhat cleaned it, but they never protected it. 
So, all we did was clean up the terminal. We pulled it off, cleaned it up, cleaned up the battery, put it back on, guess what? Hard right up. 
I had 2 volts to drop. in that version. Two volts right off the top, and it was essentially preventing the starter from doing this job. It was really bad. 
So whenever you put new batteries on, or if you ever have a car come in and it's got something like this on it, clean it off really good. Remember, it's a leech on the circuit. There are protective sprays that you could put on your terminals to prevent this from happening. 
I have started using dielectric grease. It actually works really good. And the vehicles that have used it on, corrosion has not come back. 
So, objectives, inspect the battery, and recommend correct service for it. We're gonna be talking about servicing batteries. We are gonna be performing a variety of tests on these batteries. 
And a diagnosis from them will also talk about the best charge rates for batteries. Know about service safety. And everybody knows how to safely jump a vehicle now, right? 
Which one do we go to first? Red on the dead. So getting into this, we remember, we said batteries last about three, five years. 
Most traditional batteries if the car is commonly driven, you will easily get five years. When I was at a dealership, whenever I was working at a shop, I had a car come in. I'm looking at this car before, you know, I even get to the physical car. 
But let's say that it was a 2020. Well, what year is it now? It's 25. 
What's that mean? Battery might be on its way out. So, I'm especially going to test that battery, put an eye on it, because I know we're getting to that point where that battery might be going bad. 
So manufacturers provide a code to tell where and when the batteries were made. Now, this is not always the case. These are not always easy to be seen. 
Generally, what we can see is most batteries that we replace, there is a sticker on the side of it that says when the battery was produced. And that's, especially if it's an afterworking battery, that's where I go by for age a lot. So if you pop the hood and it's a different battery than what the original battery was, you know, somebody beat you to it. 
Every car that comes in for service gets the battery checked. I don't care if it's new, especially if it looks old. Every battery gets checked. 
If I were to tell you how many texts that didn't test the battery, worked on a vehicle, and parked it. And the customer came out there, and the battery was dead. I'll already tell you how many stories I actually heard that. 
You'd probably be shocked. Never assume. Never assume a battery is good. 
Ah, looks newish. It still looks new. I mean, it's good. 
How long do cars sit on lots? Once. Four months. 
Four months. You know what salespeople are supposed to do? They're supposed to periodically go to each car and start them up. 
You know how often that happens? As much as they're supposed to. So I have a number of cars where they would be sold, they come in because the battery is dead. 
So the 1st thing they did was replace the battery and the brands back into the car. And this is even more so on hybrids. That was on a warranty, right? 
Oh, yeah. It was under one. Does dealers have to pay for it? 
So I'm actually, I'll let you dive into that. This is not something we actually deal with as much, so. So, during our inspections, definitely look at the date code if it's there, but definitely try to find the sticker for battery production. 
The battery production case. It will generally tell you the date and the year the vehicle pursuing the battery was produced and made in. I bought your battery. 
What do your connections look like? Are there any corrosion? Grab the cables, wiggle them, grab the battery. 
Make sure that the battery is properly held down. Make sure that the cables are tight. Make sure your case is in good connection, or can be good condition. 
Uh, if you can check the level of electrolyte, by all means, but most people aren't going to. Some of them actually have built-in hydrometers in here, and what the actual hydrometer tells you is how strong your electrolyte mixes. And it can also give you an idea of the cell that this is a window of as far as its health. 
Now, what used to happen when these particular maintenance free batteries is, the plastic that's used for the window would actually just stain the color. So even if the battery was bad, it was still green, so it looked like it was good. So Tech A says that distilled or clean drinking water should be added to a battery when the electrolyte is low. 
What do we think? Can you do that on AGM battery? Nope. 
It's non serviceable. So this would only be used on lead acid batteries. Now, this one, it says, distilled water. 
Yes, that would be fine. If you have an old that acid battery. You have to physically go to a store, buy distilled water and then you put that in. 
But where it says clean drinking water, that's where things get a little itfy. So that's where we have room to debate. So if I were to use well water and put it in my battery, what is in well water, minerals? 
Minerals, there's certain deposits and other stuff like that. What could they potentially do to the cells in the battery? They could potentially cause a short. 
So that's another reason why we would do that. Now, tech B says that fresh electrolyte solutions, and a solution of acid in water should be added. Oh, yeah, if it gets low. 
What do you think about that? It sounds pretty legit, right? So, if the level ever gets low, we're not using Gatorade. 
So if the level ever gets low, remember that it's the water that evaporates, not the acid in a battery. So, you're never going to buy an electrolyte solution to replenish old school batteries. Now, back in the day, when batteries were shipped, they came dry. 
So when they went to a shop, there was not a single bit of liquid in the batteries. So, your parts person or your text? What they would do to prep the batteries is they would actually had a dry solution of the acid, so it was dried. 
So you would pre portion a certain amount of acid for each cell, and then you fill with distilled water to the top of the battery. Not too high. And then you would let the battery sit for a while, and then you could watch your voltage drives. as the chemical reaction occurred. 
That's how batteries used to come. They used to be shipped to drive. This particular case, even in the old days, we only ever added water, we never added extra acid. 
So, our battery cables in this particular one here, we always need to inspect this. So, positive side, are we seeing a common occurrence here? Positive seems to have an issue with issue with corrosion. 
Now, I've had negative cables corrode too, but in your book, it says that the positive side is more likely to do this. If it looks dirty, just a little bit, it's okay. Clean it off. 
But if it's really dirty, don't jump to clean the battery. The reason why is most shops have a service fee, you can sell a battery cleaning service, and you can get paid for cleaning the battery. So, if I had corroded cables, what might the customer complain of? 
Slow startup, electronic. Slow to start. Could I get a slow crank if I'm losing voltage off the top? 
Yes. Yeah. So battery servicing, this is for red acid batteries. replenish the water through the holes in the top. 
Make sure you use distilled water. Lead oxide is often found on positive posts, and it reduces or stops the flow of current. This is corrosion. 
Now, this says this corrosion may look like white powder. I have seen corrosion in blue, green, pink, like all the Easter colors. I've seen them also in white. 
So, a lot of times when I see these, I say it's like, an Easter bunny sitting on top of a batter, because when they get that bad, they will. I've even seen yellow. So, if it's any of those, you know, Easter pastels, probably dealing with corrosion, pretty bad there. 
And that corrosion eats voltage. Battery acid, like we said before, is extremely corrosive, and it can be neutralized with a base like baking soda. Now, remember, in your science days, when you were a kid, building a volcano, it's a lot of fun, right? 
But what happens when a vinegar or acid makes contact with a base? Like bacon soup. It will bubble. 
So, just be aware, when you do sprinkle that baking soda, you might have a little bit of chemical reaction, but it will neutralize. It will calm down, and then it will be safe to clean. But it's not a bad idea to have some baking soda around. 
New batteries may be ship dry, like it said, add to electrolyte, and allow it to sit in about 15 minutes, then start checking for your voltage. So when it comes to replacing a battery, I am a stickler when it comes to this. The negative cable gets connected, disconnected first. 
Negative cable first. This says, do not twist, terminal plants. So, loosen up your clamps as best you can, and I grab the clamp assembly as a hole and go back and forth. 
As I'm pulling, and it should come right off the battery. Remove the hole down clamp, lift the battery out. While you're pulling the battery out, if it's wet on the bottom, what potentially could it be? 
I see. The V acid. Now, acid has a smell to it, went in doubt, throw some baking soda to own that mother. 
So, neutralize it, wipe it out. Wear gloves. If I were looking at the battery and it looked like it was swollen, like it had a pot belly, odds are what was going on. 
It was overcharged. And overcharged situations are much more likely to result in acid leaks. Now, if that battery was overcharged, was it the battery's fault? 
No. No. It was not the battery's fault. 
It was the alternator's fault, most likely alternator, or the regulator that tells the alternator how much they charge the battery. So, two causes of increased resistance. Battery, acid, vapors, and air in your battery. 
If your battery terminal clamps are looking iffy, replace them. If you don't have a tight connection, what are you increasing? Resistance. 
True. We need to have clean terminals. They need to be tight on the cables, and they need to be sufficiently tight on the battery when it's bolted down. 
Not overly tight, but tight enough. That battery also needs to be properly secured. We do not want it rolling around when it comes to taking turns or anything like that. 
Or if I hit a pothole, I don't want to bounce enough and arcing off the bottom of the hood. Or to be overcharged, is that more common for people that don't drive that much? Probably not. 
If they don't drive that much, we're gonna have more of an undercharge issue, right? So remember, to fully charge up a battery, that car needs to be driven at least 15, 20 minutes on the highway. That's really what the alternator wants. 
That's quality time with alternator and battery right there. At least 50, 55 miles an hour for a decent amount of time. Now, most of you probably hit that on your way to school today, right? 
So your batteries were sufficiently charged. Plus, I'd say you lived in downtown, and you never got above 40 miles an hour. RPMs were generally low. 
Do you think that battery was sufficiently charged? Probably not. Now, doing that for a month is probably not going to make a major difference, but doing it for multiple months, it's probably gonna end up reducing your battery's life. 
We're gonna deal with salvation, and the battery's gonna eventually put it. All right. We get to move on? 
How about this one? Check the paper. It's stuff we've kind of talked about already. 
The only thing that's maybe different is two causes of increased resistance inside of a battery would be air and the battery acid vacation. Especially if you're water level is low. So, let's say that you have a battery come in, and it's failed. 
Or the battery holder is low. If it is a serviceable lead acid battery, one is subsid, you can do is just to pop off the service gaps, and check and see what level the actual electrolyte is. And if the electrolyte is low in there, you know, it's gonna potentially affect how much voltage the battery can produce, especially if it has that air and battery battery acid vapors, especially higher than what it should be in there. 
It's gonna create resistance. It's not going to produce like this. Now, before you go disconnecting a battery, what should we probably do? 
So... You got it. So, how many people have favorite radio stations? 
How many people have certain presets on the radios? Other stuff like that. How about your block? 
Now, some cars, if you change the battery out, they have capacitors wired and parallel to some circuits. So it runs off the capacitor, so the clock never dies. The radio presets are still maintained. 
But is that always a guarantee? So, what we do is we use something called a memory saver, and memory savers are usually used with a battery pack, kind of like this here. So, it usually has like the 9 volt setup where you can plug it in here and it will go into the OBD 2 port. 
And when I disconnect the battery, And since I have a connection with OBD 2, it pulls voltage from this battery pack, so it's able to maintain everything in the car as well. Now, maintaining what the vehicle has learned is actually pretty important. Does anybody ever replace a battery and a car ran like absolute dog crap? 
All right, so imagine forgetting everything that you learned in your life up to this point. But then also waking up with a body that was not new. Well, that's kind of what your car does. 
So over 50,000 miles of driving, the car learns how you drive. So, it learns how you never really come to a full stop when you come to a stop sign. It learns how you like to accelerate. 
But it also learns what it takes to smooth, what, to have a smooth idol, let's say that. Now, over those 50,000 miles, how many times do you think the thrall plate has opened in Polish? How much air do you think gets sucked in? 
Uh, do you think that that throttle plate where the mouths of the engine is going to be super clean either over 50, 60,000 miles? Probably not. So as that plate starts to get a little goggy, the car learns that, Hey, you know what? 
I need to open my mouth a little bit more so that I can still run properly, because it's a little dirty. Now, what happens is... all that, all those presets, everything the cars learn up to that point, if you do not use a memory saver, change a battery out, it forgets all that. So the throttle plate closes, it acts like it was square one, 1st day of production. 
So one of the issues that we run into is these cars will not stay running. They'll stall out, they'll die. Because they have to relearn a lot of that stuff ahead of time. 
So that's another reason why we want to use the memory saver. At Toyota, people would do it all the time. So they would come in, they'd say, oh, this car's running like crap. 
I just changed the battery. Oh, that was the big giveaway. So what we would do is we go in, we clean the, probably, and get all the dirt and dump that was, you know, created over the years of driving, and then it would start to relearn much faster. 
But to somebody that knows nothing about that, the car has to relearn. I gotta do all my radio presets. I gotta do the clock. 
I gotta do all that stuff. It's kind of a pain. That comes to your car as soon as you start enough to die, and then, like, if I had a car to live this morning, I would have to get on the gas, not so free to stay running sometimes. 
Yeah. But then after that, we would start running warm. So you could do that, yeah. did that. 
Depending on your vehicle, you actually have to go into a reinitialization process, too, to get your windows to work right. With the windows switch, in the master switch, in the market. So that was another thing, too. 
So, what you'd have to do is you'd have to put your driver's side window down to your passenger side window down all the way. And then you could use the driver switch and then power both of them up and down. But it did not control the passenger side until you did that reinitialization. 
I have a question too. Like, for cleaning the throttle plate, you use, like, a certain, like, spray or something, or you can just walk it off. So it's a good question. 
So back in the day, they used to use carb cleaner for cleaning your throttle plates and other stuff like that on carburetor. It is extremely potent. It's strong stuff. 
And these newer cars now, they have a special coating on the throttle plates. If you use burp cleaner on it, the coding will come off and it'll close your sensors to face. So you need to use specialty throttle body cleaner for cleaning those plates. 
It's better to use no cleaner at all whatsoever if you don't have the specialized problem. Because you can you can essentially make more issues. You can use their own stuff. 
And that can cause, like, an easy dish when it accelerates, a dirty charter plate. It can cause some hesitation. Usually it calls more so stalling, especially when you try to idle because the plate closes too much and it's not getting enough air in. 
So, if you're changing a battery from here on out, I have battery savers, describe a pack, but grab a battery saver, goes into OBD 2 port, where we hook up our scan tools, and then it goes to the pack, and then follow me to change your battery out. But then you won't have to deal with any of those presets. So, these are all the things we do. 
Now, how do I put it back on? Reverse procedure. Now, positive goes on, everything gets typed up, and then I finish with the ground. 
Finish with the ground. The ground comes off first. The last to go back on. 
All right, so, battery was not properly secured on a vehicle, and... customer was driving around, back and forth, back and forth. Uh, and after an extended period of time, started burning a hole through the hole filter. The old 4 Danger Ranger was pretty common for this. 
They thought it was a good idea to run a lot of your high current cables right by the wheel filter, and what would happen is people would scratch the insulation on them too, trying to get the oil filter off, and periodically, we'd have them come in like this and have burnt holes in the oil filter. Is oil flammable? It will catch fire, right? 
It takes a little bit. But we're dealing with high amounts of current through that battery cable. And it will initially catch fires. after a while. 
So when it comes to battery testing, you can use a hydrometer just like we used in intro class. to check the specific gravity or the strength of the electrolyte. Remember, healthy batteries don't freeze. Weak batteries do. 
So if my electrolyte mix is on the weaker side, we're gonna have a dead battery. It says dead batteries freeze at 19 degrees Fahrenheit. Now, in Delaware, we don't generally get that cold, but do we from time to time? 
Yeah. I was visiting friends in Pennsylvania a couple years ago. It got down negative 10. 
Uh, so, just think, what may be okay in Delaware is not okay in the next date over. So these are always things we want to do. Remember when we do a, when we were doing those inspections, the customer said, Hey, I'm going on a statewide trip or multi-state trip. 
Batteries should always be at the top of the list. If that battery is iffy, we're replacing it. Because that's the last thing we want to worry about. 
So, whenever it talks about specific gravity in a battery, this is more so dealing with lead acid issues. Not so much AGM with the Iman, anything like that. So we're talking about the strength of the electrolyte, each one of the cells. 
And if I have a variance of 50,000s, the batteries could have a defective cell. So, as far as specific gravity goes on the older batteries, you can pop the caps and check them. This is really not anything that you're gonna be doing or seeing in the field much anymore. 
But it is something that is in the book. I don't have these questions on the test either. But what we're dealing with specific gravity on a battery, we're referring to the strength of the electrolyte. 
And the drule is, we want no more than 50,000s of difference between each cell. All right, so the first test that we usually like to do on a battery is just the battery state of charge. So, many of you have probably done that already. 
So if I'm doing an electrical diet, and odds are I got to have the key on to do these tests. What's generally the first thing we check? Battery? 
Batter. You take your meter, you send it to what? Oh, DC. DC volts, NBC, but we're working on, right? 
We're hoping to see about 12 holes, hopefully a little more. That's our good baseline. So a battery voltage test. 
Now, let's take a peek. Sorry. If you go on page six, of your notebook, we've got a lot of battery tests. 
I got a little stock for jump starting. I got a little tidbit here on charging. I've got a battery load test, and I got a battery dream test. 
And on the next page, I even have some more info on a lot of these tests. So as we're talking about this stuff, as you're doing it, you may want to make a little bit of notes on this stuff to help you remember how to do this stuff. But a badger, excuse me, a battery test, or a battery voltage test, is pretty simple. 
We're just hooking up with a meter, and we're seeing what we're working with. Just because a battery has 12 wolves does not mean it's good. Just means that we can proceed further with chest. 
Now, how many have seen that one person that walks in the gym that walks like this? They may look strong, right? But really, we know that appearances can be deceiving. 
You got to put it to work so we can see its true work. That same person, once they get on the bench, may not be able to actually do the work that they're acting like they can do. So, when it comes to battery voltage testing, we go to that, that's what we do first. 
Let's see. I get into this right now. What I do want to bring up here... 
At rest, I'm looking for about 12 volts. I have about 12.6 volts. I'm looking really good there. 
Remember, each cell of the battery produces about 2.1 volts. So if I add them all up, a healthy battery has about 12.6 holes total. So this says if voltage is less than 12.4 recharge. 
I don't think that's going to happen. But do know that if it is under 12, probably should recharge the battery before doing any kind of serious testing. So, a battery state of charge test. 
This is what it looks like. Easy bolt on the battery. Looks like we're good to go, right? 
We can proceed with the next step of testing. So, if that matter was a little low, probably gonna need to recharge. Now. 
The easiest thing to remember when it comes to best charging practices for batteries. is the low rider motto. What is the low rider motto? Any takers? 
It's also my meat smoking motto. Low and slow. So when I recharge a battery, I do a low amount of amperage for a long period of time. 
It's like it gets massaged in. Now, can you charge a battery high amberage for a short period of time? You can. 
You think it likes it? No. I always get this visual of, like, that, you know, big Swedish masseuse, and they're, like, doing, like, the pile driver on the person on the table. 
It's a massage too, right? He thinks it is enjoyable? Probably not. 
So, the best way you can charge a battery is low and slow. So, if I had issues with salvation, depending on how I recharge it, I can break up that salvation and bring a battery back to life. Some chargers are actually specifically designed for that. 
Now, my little chargers that I have out on the list there, those are triple chargers. They are also low amperage, slow charging. They're also smart chargers which are nice. 
But the thing is, with any of those little chargers, you have to have a decent amount of charge first. If you want them to do anything. So you actually need to get a good charge on that battery first, and then it can maintain. 
So, a slow charge is a rate of charging between 3 amps and 15 amps for a longer period of time. So whenever a vehicle is left in storage, at least for a month at a time without being started, batteries do have a tendency to discharge. So there are natural parasitic rings that occur that can occur. 
So, if it is going to be in storage for a while, you either want to disconnect the battery or you want to put some kind of battery maintainer on it. How many put maintainers on their wall mowers or anything like that over the winter? Batteries aren't cheap. 
And I don't think they're gonna get any cheaper. So if you can maintain them, any form, it's probably gonna help. So, a battery needs to be at least at 75% charge before doing any kind of serious testing. 
Why? Is because if the battery is not looking so good, it could potentially make my alternator or my starter look bad. Because they don't have the potential that they need. 
Now, when I do a battery load test, this is probably the most effective test that you can possibly do. Because you put a battery to work. Now, we got a video for it. 
I pull it up. This is performed with a usually standing load tester, and when you perform a battery load test, you load half of the batteries cold cranking amps. You throw half of it for 15 seconds. 
So with the battery load test, if the battery has 600 pole cranking amps, I'm going to throw 300 cold cranking amps worth of load at it for 15 seconds. And what we want to see is battery voltage not getting below 9.6 volts. And what we want to see is as soon as I take that load away, my voltage springs right back up close to where it was before. 
That's a good battery. That's what we see. Now, your handheld testers that you've been using, put no load on batteries. 
None whatsoever. What they actually do is they check the health of the cells, they're able to see the cold cranking amps. And, you know, they're like, it's a nice civil conversation between the tester and the battery, but no work is done. 
So one of the issues that we tend to see is this handheld batteries that we were using will eventually pass batteries that actually aren't good. Once they're put under load, they fail. So in your workbooks for this week, tomorrow, we are gonna be doing parasitic grain testing, and we're gonna talk about that today, but we're also going to be doing battery tests. 
So, handheld testers are called conductance testers. So what I'm gonna have y'all do first is... everybody gets tested with a conductance tester. And once it does that, we're gonna see, you know, how many cold cranking amps are available? 
You know, overall health, and it's gonna pass or fail. Once we do that, we're gonna use our handheld tester, or she's not handheld, or carpalute tester, and we're gonna throw the beans at it. We're gonna see if it truly does pass or fail. 
So when load testing a battery, what do I go by? I go by CCAs. This would be how I would hook it up. 
This one here has big old plants on it, positive, negative. And then I have something called an inductive pickup. What do you think the inductive pickup breeds on? 
Yeah. Yeah. Mm hmm. 
So, with this particular machine, I actually turn my knob, and as I'm turning my knob, I actually get to see how many amps are being pulled. How much of a load I'm applying? So this is on a battery load tester. 
This is the most accurate form of battery testing out there. Now, the issue is, whatever video I had in here does not seem to load right now. So I'm gonna go on ahead and try to find that exact video. 
So you all can see it. And you know what? While I'm doing this, let's take a break. 
So, next group of four.