ANSC: Lecture Notes-Sept. 5: Wool and Mohair

Sources of Wool and Mohair

Wool: from sheep; Mohair: from Angora goat. Mohair typically has less crimp than wool.
Global context: Australia and New Zealand are major producers; the US is smaller and affected by policy and competitiveness.
Local environment: Alabama/Gulf Coast less ideal for sheep; climate influences where sheep and mohair-producing goats are raised.

Wool growth: grows from the base of the follicle; new cells accumulate at the base, moving the fiber upward while older cells die.
Fiber structure: medulla, cortex, cuticle; cuticle and crimp help fibers stick together (Velcro-like cohesion).
Crimp: fundamental for fiber cohesion, elasticity, and ability to trap air.
Keratin: primary protein in wool; relatively non-digestible; hair in general has similar protein but wool has unique fiber properties.
Lanolin: natural wax/lubricant in fleece; greasy wool contains lanolin; helps skin but must be washed for processing.
Erector pili muscle: makes hair stand up to trap air for warmth (in cold environments).

Greasy vs. scoured wool: greasy contains lanolin; scoured wool is washed/cleaned for fiber use.
Skirting and sorting: remove low-quality areas (e.g., belly/tail), separate by body area; pack by grade.
Fiber length and cleanliness: long, clean fibers fetch higher value; short fibers lower value; avoid multiple passes that shorten fibers.
Contaminants: keep foreign materials (hay twine, straw) out of the wool; avoid mixing high- and low-grade lots.
Color and dye: black wool less valuable due to dyeing limits with synthetics; whiteness/cleanliness influence value.
Marking and identification: use lanolin-based paint for marking to wash off; avoid permanent marks.
Grading terms: Merino and Rambouillet = fine wool; Cotswold, Lincoln, Romney = coarse wool.
Preparation steps: skirting, sorting by grade, and proper packing are essential for quality control.

Major producers: Australia and New Zealand dominate global wool/mohair supply.
US context: subsidies historically supported wool/mohair; removal/reduction of subsidies reduced domestic competitiveness.
Leading US greasy wool producer: California.
Other US states with significant roles in wool production: upper Midwest (e.g., Montana, Idaho) for sheep; Texas included in broader categories.
Environmental fit: Gulf Coast regions (hot climates) are less suitable for traditional wool sheep; cooler, dryer climates support wool production better.

Mohair origin: Angora goat.
Mohair characteristics: different crimp and luster compared to wool; generally coarser crimp; used for fibers with distinct properties.

Angora goat produces mohair; Merino and Rambouillet produce fine wool; Cotswold, Lincoln, Romney are coarse wool breeds.
Crimp and crimp-related cohesion are key to wool’s fiber properties.
Greasy vs scoured wool: processing step; scoured is cleaned wool ready for spinning.
Geography matters: Australia/New Zealand dominate supply; US producers rely on regional climates and policy.
Practical handling: separate belly wool; skirting; pack by grade; avoid contamination; use long, clean strokes when shearing.
Quick data points (for recall):
339 sheep in a day (video example) — much higher than typical lab numbers (e.g., 10 per day in early days of grad school).
World-record-like shear times discussed: around 39.31 seconds per sheep; some statements mention around 37 seconds.
Leading greasy wool producer in the US: California.
Key breeds and their wool type: Merino, Rambouillet = fine wool; Cotswold, Lincoln, Romney = coarse.

Crimp: natural waviness that helps fibers twist and stay together.
Medulla / Cortex / Cuticle: internal/outer fiber structures.
Lanolin: wool grease protecting and moisturizing skin; removable during processing.
Skirting: removing lower-quality wool before combining lots.
Greasy wool: wool with lanolin; Scoured wool: washed wool ready for processing.
Mohair: fiber from Angora goats; different crimp/shaft quality than wool.
Velcro analogy: crimp and cuticle structure give cohesive fiber behavior.