1.1.1 coasts as a system

Factors Affecting the Coast:

  • Geological: Hard rocks resist erosion; soft rocks erode faster. Weak bedding planes increase erosion.

  • Anthropogenic: Human activity (coastal management, urbanisation, dredging) can disrupt sediment transport and cause erosion.

  • Marine: Waves (destructive/constructive), tides, and currents (longshore drift) shape the coast.

  • Climatic: Storms increase wave energy; seasonal changes and climate change (sea-level rise) enhance erosion.

  • Geomorphic: Fluvial (rivers), glacial (past influences), and mass movement (slumping, rockfall) impact coastal shape.

  • Sub-aerial: Weathering (freeze-thaw) and wind (sand transport) weaken cliffs.

  • Biotic: Vegetation stabilises dunes; coral reefs protect coasts. Human damage can weaken natural defences.

  • Tectonics: Uplift and submergence change coastal features, creating raised beaches, rias, and fjords.


Energy Sources Driving Coastal Systems:

  • Solar: Drives the hydrological cycle (precipitation, river input) and wave energy.

  • Gravitational: Tides, influenced by the sun and moon, direct energy focus.

  • Geothermal: Tectonic activity causes coastal uplift and subsidence.


Coastal System Components:

  • Inputs: Sediment from rivers, weathering, waves, human activity.

  • Stores: Beaches, dunes, sediment in transport, wave energy.

  • Outputs: Sediment leaving system, erosional (stacks, stumps) and depositional landforms (bars, beaches).


Sediment Budget:

  • Balanced: Sediment in = sediment stored + sediment out (stable coast).

  • Unbalanced: Sediment in < sediment stored + sediment out (erosion, retreat)