Fashion Techniques and Terminology Review

Straight of Grain (SOG):

• Refers to the warp of the fabric.

• Cross grain is the weft.

• Bias is at a 45-degree angle, not the cross grain.

Indicating Straight Grain:

• Always indicate the straight grain (warp) when cutting fabric.

• If indicating cross grain, write it out.

Terminology:

• Be aware of different terminology used in various regions (e.g., India).

• Cross grain is the weft, not the bias.

Marking Fabric:

• Include name and style number (if applicable).

• Mark front and back pieces, indicating quantity (e.g., 1 into fabric).

• Use "RS" in red to indicate the right side of the material, especially when marking on the wrong side.

• Mark on the wrong side of the fabric.

Fabric Considerations:

• Prioritize natural fibers for dyeing and manipulation.

• Cellulose fibers (cotton, linen) dye well.

• Protein fibers (wool, silk) may shrink.

Dyeing Techniques:

• Resistance Dyeing:

  • Techniques like tie-dye, shibori, and batik.

  • Shibori: Japanese technique involving stitching, twisting, folding, and binding fabric before dyeing.

  • Batik: Painting with wax as a resist.

• Color Theory:

  • Essential for dyeing, especially when mixing colors.

  • Be aware of tie dye variations such as bandhani.

Experimentation and Documentation:

• Document the Process:

  • Record steps with photos and/or videos.

  • Keep a diary to organize thoughts.

• Experiment with Techniques:

  • Bleach and spray bottles can be used for different effects.

Linings:
*Linings improve garment comfort and presentation

Concertina Pleat:
* A pleat incorporated into a lining for movement and comfort. Pleat is half the size of the hem.

Tucks Instead of Darts:
* Use tucks instead of full darts in linings for a smoother finish.

Seam Allowance:
* Add seam allowance for fraying.

General Advice:

• Always sharpen pattern lines for cleaner cutting.

• Transfer dart excesses in the right order, otherwise your garment will not align correctly.

• Know that garments and student work for fashion shows belong to the college and are not returned back to the student.