Fast Fashion: An Overview of the topic
The Ugly Truth of Fast Fashion
Introduction to Fashion and Consumerism
- Fashion is a form of expression. What you wear represents who you are.
- Americans are projected to spend 1.1trillion during the holiday shopping season.
- Shopping can trigger a physical high due to the pleasure centers in the brain lighting up.
- In the 1980s, the average American bought about 12 new articles of clothing per year.
- Today, the average American buys 68 new pieces a year due to fast fashion.
What is Fast Fashion?
- Fast fashion retailers quickly replicate runway designs and offer them at affordable prices.
- It's a “see now-buy now” retail environment.
- Fast fashion is characterized by trendy, cheap, and disposable clothing.
- Popular fast fashion retailers include Fashion Nova, Topshop, H&M, and Zara.
- Fast fashion democratizes high fashion by offering knockoffs of designer brands at scale.
The Impact of Fast Fashion
- Fast fashion has become the dominant force in the clothing industry.
- Consumers want the feeling of luxury without paying full price.
- The average American woman buys 64 new articles of clothing per year, half of which are worn three times or less.
- H&M and Zara dominate the mass-market retail, catering to the demand for variety at affordable prices.
- Fast fashion is the only segment of the fashion industry that has grown over the last fifteen years.
- Legacy brands like Gap, Levi's, Tommy Hilfiger, and Calvin Klein struggle to compete.
Zara's Success and Business Model
- Zara's parent company, Inditex, is the world's largest retail clothing company.
- Zara's founder, Amancio Ortega, is one of the wealthiest people in the world, worth almost 70billion.
- Ortega prefers a normal life and avoids public attention.
- Zara was originally named Zorba but was changed due to a naming conflict with a local bar.
- Zara pioneered and perfected the fast fashion business model.
- Legacy brands release clothes in seasonal releases, taking months to design, manufacture, and distribute.
- Zara utilizes quick response manufacturing, which involves knocking off designs quickly, keeping raw materials on hand, and streamlining distribution.
- Zara monitors trends and social media feedback to regulate supply and demand.
- Zara employs dynamic assortment, introducing new products frequently to gauge what sells.
- H&M introduces new clothes every Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday.
- Fast fashion has created around 52 seasons a year which translates into something new coming in every week.
Environmental Costs of Fast Fashion
- Inditex alone makes 1.6billion pieces of clothing annually.
- Since 2005, Inditex has been opening more than one store a day.
- Social media drives the need for new outfits constantly.
- Compared to twenty years ago, clothes are kept half as long.
- Fast fashion's churn has a significant environmental cost.
- Textile production in 2015 created more greenhouse gases than international flights and maritime shipping combined.
- Growing cotton for a jacket requires 10,330 liters of water, equivalent to 24 years of drinking water for one person.
*Synthetic fabrics like polyester, nylon, and spandex use approximately 342 million barrels of oil a year. - Viscose production sources about 33% of its materials from ancient or threatened forests.
- Up to 70% of the harvested wood for viscose is wasted, with only 30% ending up in garments.
- Manufacturing fabrics involves using toxic chemicals that are often dumped in rivers near villages, such as the Citarum River in Indonesia.
Waste and Disposal
- The average American throws away 80 lbs of clothes a year.
- A Salvation Army Center in New York disposes of 18 tons of unwanted clothes every three days.
- Donated clothes that aren't sold often end up in landfills in the developing world.
- Of all fabric used for clothing, 87% is incinerated or ends up in a landfill.
Greenwashing
- Companies use greenwashing to market themselves as more environmentally friendly than they are.
- Inditex's 2018 annual report claims that 88% of their waste is reused or recycled, but this excludes waste from their factories and stores.
- H&M's Garment Collecting Program encourages customers to bring in old shirts, but almost 90% of clothes end up trashed or burnt. H&M gets you to shop more by giving you a discount to buy even more shit you'll soon be “recycling.”
- H&M and Zara have eco-friendly clothing lines like Conscious and Join Life, but their green claims often lack substance.
- Terms like “green,” “eco-friendly,” “ethical,” and “sustainably-made” have no legal definition.
- Zara claims its chinos reduce water consumption in the dyeing process, but dyeing only uses 1% of the total water.
- Zara claims its faux-leather coat is made with the “most sustainably produced polyurethane,” which contradicts the nature of oil-based products.
- Clothes labeled as ecologically grown cotton, not even a real term, and the amount of recycled Material is only the tag.
- Corduroy jacket, the coating is the most sustainably produced polyurethane. 7/8 is made with oil.
- Conscious line orange (autumnal sexy carrot) dress is 4% wool and 96% (Polyester, polyamide, plastic)
Solutions and Conclusion
- Wearing clothes for nine months longer can reduce the carbon footprint by 30%.
- Buying one used item this year instead of new can save nearly six pounds of CO2 emissions, equivalent to removing half a million cars off the road for a year.
- Wearing clothes longer or buying one item secondhand can make a big difference.