Waxing Treatments and Hair Removal Methods

Waxing Treatments

• Unwanted body hair can be a sensitive issue for both men and women.
• Western societies: Most women dislike body hair.
• Eastern European societies: Hair is sometimes considered attractive.
• Women are often concerned about hair on the face, underarms, legs, and bikini area.
• Many men prefer hair removal from their chest and back.

Temporary Hair Removal Methods

• Waxing
• Tweezing
• Shaving
• Sugaring
• Threading
• Depilatory creams
• Abrasives (e.g., pumice stone)

Waxing

• Popular method in beauty salons.
• Two main types:
  • Hot Wax
  • Warm Wax
• Hot wax is long-established but has been largely replaced by warm wax.

Hot Wax

• Basic ingredients: beeswax, resins, and a soothing agent like azulene.
• Beeswax: A true wax from the honeycomb, solid in appearance.
• Resin: Added to beeswax for flexibility.
• Color varies depending on the manufacturer.
• Melting point: approximately $50^\circ C$. Working temperature: approximately $68^\circ C$.
• Modern hot wax machines:
  • Enclosed heating elements
  • Thermostatically controlled to prevent overheating
• Hygiene: Hot wax should not be re-used.
• Machines are smaller, easier to clean, and should comply with British Standard regulations.

Warm Wax

• Ingredients vary; they are not true waxes.
• Mixtures may include rubber latex solution and solvents or organic substances like honey.
• Some mixtures need warming; others can be applied cold.
• Does not set hard on the skin, making it easier to treat larger areas quickly.
• Working temperature: approximately $43^\circ C$.
• Heated in a compact, thermostatically controlled unit to a fairly low temperature.
• Warm wax is discarded after use, ensuring hygiene.

Roller Wax

• Cartridge with a roller applicator head attached to a handle.
• All parts are disposable except the handle.
• Hygienic because of disposable components.
• Applicators resemble roll-on deodorant sticks and come in various sizes.

Other Methods of Hair Removal

• Tweezing: Hairs are pulled out of the follicle in the direction of hair growth using tweezers.
• Shaving: A razor is stroked over the skin against the direction of hair growth, removing hair at the surface.
• Depilatory Creams: Alkaline chemical creams that dissolve hair at the skin's surface.
• Sugaring:
  • Sugar Paste: Applied by hand in the direction of hair growth, then removed quickly against the hair growth.
  • Strip Sugar: Similar to warm wax, requires a wax removal strip.
• Threading: Twisted cotton thread is rolled over the skin to catch and pull out hairs; suitable for the eye area.
• Abrasives: Abrasive gloves or pumice stones are rubbed over the skin, breaking off hair at the surface.

Comparison of Waxing Methods

Hot Wax

• Advantages:
  • Effective for strong hair growth (e.g., underarm, bikini line).
  • Suitable for ethnic hair types with bent follicles.
• Disadvantages:
  • Takes longer to heat up.
  • Application and removal take longer (double the time of warm waxing).
  • Cannot be re-applied if all hairs do not come out.

Warm Wax

• Advantages:
  • Good for removing hair from larger areas.
  • Quickest waxing method.
• Disadvantages:
  • Less efficient for coarse, dark hair.
  • Can be sticky or painful if the therapist is not proficient.
  • May cause ingrown hairs.

Other Hair Removal Methods: Advantages and Disadvantages

• Cutting:
  • Advantages: Quick, no training needed, can be done at home, painless.
  • Disadvantages: Short-term results, suitable for small areas, can cut the skin.
• Shaving:
  • Advantages: Quick, no training needed, can be done at home, painless, cheap equipment.
  • Disadvantages: Not suitable for all skin types, short-term results, stubbly regrowth, can harm the skin, can be unhygienic.
• Plucking:
  • Advantages: Good for removing hair in small areas, cheap equipment.
  • Disadvantages: Only for small areas, can risk breaking hairs, not suitable for all clients (e.g., poor eyesight).
• Threading:
  • Advantages: Inexpensive, no equipment is used, good for ethnic hair, as effective as plucking.
  • Disadvantages: Training needed, risk of breaking hairs.
• Impregnated Cold Wax Strips:
  • Advantages: Minimal training and equipment required, clean, fast procedure.
  • Disadvantages: Risk of bruising or damaging skin, painful, costly for large areas.
• Abrasives (gloves/pumice stones):
  • Advantages: No training or equipment required, desquamates, cheap treatment.
  • Disadvantages: Hair only removed from the surface, skin damage may occur, not good for strong hairs.
• Electrical Appliances (e.g., electric razors):
  • Advantages: No training required, good for home use, reusable equipment, clean and quick.
  • Disadvantages: Removes hair from the surface only, stubbly regrowth, can cause skin damage, can be expensive.
• Bleach:
  • Advantages: No skill required, quick results, good for facial hair, can be used in between epilation treatments.
  • Disadvantages: Not suitable for all clients, skin sensitivity test required, only suitable for small areas, regrowth can be more noticeable, can cause skin irritation.
• Strip Sugaring:
  • Advantages: Water-soluble, quick, and cost-effective, good for larger areas.
  • Disadvantages: Often less efficient than other forms of waxing, difficult technique to achieve.
• Manual Sugaring:
  • Advantages: Water-soluble, reduces the risk of burning, cost-effective.
  • Disadvantages: Time-consuming, difficult technique to achieve.
• Hair-Removing Cream:
  • Advantages: No training required, relatively pain-free, can be done at home, low costs.
  • Disadvantages: Not suitable for all clients (may cause allergies), can be messy, hair is only removed on the surface of the skin.

The Hair

• Hairs are dead keratinized structures.
• Grow from hair follicles in the epidermis.
• Hair shaft: The part above the hair follicle.
• Hair bulb: Enlarged base enclosing the hair papilla.
• Hair papilla: Receives blood supply and nourishment.
• Hair bulb formation: Epidermal cells push downwards into the dermis.

Hair Composition

• Cuticle: Outer layer of overlapping transparent keratin scales.
• Cortex: Middle layer of elongated cells containing pigment (melanin).
• Medulla: Center layer of loosely connected keratinized cells interspersed with air cells.

Types of Hair

• Vellus: Fine, downy, almost invisible hairs on the face and body; not pigmented, shallow root.
• Accelerated Vellus: Fine, downy hair, visible due to pigment; deeper root.
• Terminal: Coarse hairs on the scalp, underarms, and pubic areas; pigmented, well-developed papilla and matrix, deep in the dermis.
• Lanugo: Fine downy hair found on the fetus; disappears after birth, replaced by vellus hair.

Hair Growth on the Body

• Head: Capilli
• Face: Barba
• Eyebrows: Supercilia
• Eyelashes: Cilia
• Nostrils: Vibrissae
• Ears: Tragi
• Armpit: Hirci
• Pubic Region: Pubes

Causes of Hair Growth

• Congenital Pattern (inherited): Determines color, texture, etc.
• Topical Pattern (irritation): Increases blood flow, leading to deeper and stronger hair growth.
• Number of Follicles: More follicles result in thicker-looking hair.
• Hormones: Can affect hair growth (e.g., menopause).
• Cultural Influences: Race and geography influence hair patterns.
• Illness: Can affect hair growth, making it lank and lifeless.
• Medication: Drugs can affect hair growth (e.g., chemotherapy).

Stages of Hair Growth

1. Anagen: Active growth phase; follicle extends downwards.
2. Catagen: Papilla separates from the matrix.
3. Telogen: Resting phase; new hair may form underneath the old one.

• Hair is found all over the body except on the palms, soles, and lips.
• Distribution varies from person to person.

Planning the Treatment

Preparation of Work Area

• Place wax machine on a stable surface away from flammable materials.
• Position for ease of movement during treatment.
• Place all equipment and materials within easy reach.
• Protect the couch with a plastic sheet and couch roll.
• Remove clothing from the treatment area and protect the client’s clothes with a paper roll.
• Position the client comfortably on the couch.

Unrealistic vs. Realistic Aims

• Unrealistic: Permanent hair removal.
• Realistic: Waxing lasts 3-6 weeks.
• Unrealistic: All hairs grow back at the same time.
• Realistic: Hairs grow back erratically due to different growth cycles.
• Unrealistic: Hairs grow back sharp and prickly.
• Realistic: Shaving and cutting leave sharp ends.
• Unrealistic: Waxing lightens hair color.
• Realistic: Waxing does not change hair color.
• Unrealistic: Painless.
• Realistic: Feels like a plaster being taken off; pain threshold varies.

Consultation

• A full consultation should be carried out before any treatment commences.
• The treatment plan and client record card must be completed accurately.
• Discuss realistic outcomes with the client.

Contraindications

• Skin diseases
• Severe varicose veins
• Broken skin
• Bruising
• Recent exposure to ultraviolet rays
• Hypersensitive skin
• Warts and moles
• Recent scar tissue
• Defective circulation
• Severe diabetes
• Very thin, papery skin
• Sunburn
• Previous reaction to treatment
• Excessive ingrown hairs from previous waxing
• Medication that thins the skin

Preparation of the Client

• Perform a thermal skin test to check sensitivity to heat.
• Check for contraindications.
• Clean the area with pre-wax cleanser to remove grease.
• Apply talcum powder against the hair growth.
• Test the wax temperature on the therapist’s wrist and a small area of the client’s skin.

Precautions for Safe Use

• Ensure all wax machines are wired correctly and comply with British Standards.
• Heat wax in a safe position away from flammable materials.
• Do not move the wax machine while hot.
• Do not overheat the wax; regularly check the temperature.
• Clean the machine immediately after use.
• Keep covers in place when not in use.
• Dispose of waste in bins provided.

Application and Removal - Warm Wax

• Apply wax with a spatula in the direction of hair growth, as thinly as possible at a $90$ degree angle.
• Place a muslin strip on the wax, smooth down, and pull back against the hair growth, almost parallel to the skin.
• Rub the area to relieve stinging and apply after wax lotion.

Application and Removal - Hot Wax

• Apply wax with a spatula against the hair growth.
• Build several layers until the strip is thick (approximately two inches wide).
• Flick up the edge of the strip quickly when it is flexible, but beginning to set.
• Grip the raised edge and pull off decisively, following through with a soothing rub.
• Remove any remaining traces of wax with after wax oil or lotion.

Contra-Actions for Waxing

• Allergic reaction
• Burning the skin
• Blistering the skin
• Bruising
• Hair breakage
• Swelling
• Excessive erythema
• Stripping of the superficial epidermis/skin
• Ingrown hair

Waxing Handy Hints

1. Always test the wax before applying to a client.
2. Make sure the hairs are at least $1/4$ inch long.
3. Ask the client to help stretch the skin (e.g., bikini area).
4. Don’t waste wax by waxing over areas already waxed or applying too much wax.
5. Remove strip parallel to the skin to avoid breakage.
6. Ensure areas to wax are clean and dry.
7. Apply a little powder to the area for sensitive clients.
8. Be generous with after-wax lotion.
9. Advise the client about aftercare: no deodorants, sun exposure, swimming, hot baths, electrical treatments for 24 hours; use loofah and body lotion to prevent ingrown hairs.

After Care Advice

• Wash or shower in lukewarm water only
• Do not use soap as this could irritate the skin
• Do not use any perfumed body lotions/self tan/make up/deodorants
• Do not expose the area to ultraviolet light or other heat treatments/sun bed
• Avoid excessive exercise
• Avoid tight clothing in the area
• Do not swim
• Avoid touching the area, where possible
• No electrolysis or electrical machines on the area
• All of the above need to be avoided for at least 24 hours
• Erythema can be reduced by using after wax lotion at home.