Class 8: Spain and Portugal

Introduction to Fine Wine

  • Introduction to Fine Wines from Spain and Portugal

    • Overview of recent quality advancements in Spain’s wine production.

    • Technological innovations and new generations of winemakers have transformed the landscape.

    • Many regions in Spain now produce world-class wines.

    • Previous reliance on only a few regions for decent wines has shifted.

  • Recognition of Quality

    • Global recognition of Spanish wines lags due to several factors.

    1. Indigenous grape varieties unfamiliar to non-Spanish consumers.

    2. Aside from Rioja, most regions lacked international acclaim.

    3. Traditional heavily oak-aged styles clash with modern fruity trends.

    4. Limited emigration of Spaniards compared to Italians, impacting international exposure.

    • Spanish wines gaining recognition both locally and in export markets.

    • Note that market share varies:

    • Scandinavian countries, Germany, and the British Isles: Spanish wines account for 10-30% of the market.

    • France, Italy, and U.S.: often less than 10%.

Factors in Spain’s Wine Success

  • Development of reputation for fruit-forward wines.

    • “International style” characterized by less oak aging for reds and fresh dry whites.

    • Unfamiliar regions, such as Priorato, Ribera del Duero, and Bierzo, now produce high-quality wines.

    • Rias Baixas and Rueda producing popular white wines.

  • Bulk production has generally been kept local, maintaining quality at lower price points.

  • Adoption of international varietals by regions:

    • Pioneering efforts by Miguel Torres in Catalunya since the 1960s.

    • Torres's influence on perceptions of Spanish wine quality.

  • Growth of high-quality Spanish restaurants globally has enhanced wine exposure.

    • Tapas bars have particularly helped drive interest in pairing wines with foods.

    • Revival of the Sherry industry due to exposure.

Spain's Wine Laws

  • Modelled after French and Italian laws; six levels of quality recognized:

    1. Denominacion de Origen Calificada (DOCa):

      • Top designation; includes Rioja and Priorato (where it is known as DOQ).

    2. Denominacion de Origen (DO):

      • Equivalent to AOC/AOP; quality wines from specified zones (60 zones).

    3. Denominacion de Origen de Pago (DO Pago):

      • Recognizes high quality estate wines not conforming to region’s norms.

    4. Indicacion Geografica Protegida (IGP):

      • New EU term replacing Vino de la Tierra; higher quality table wines.

    5. Vino or Vino de España:

      • Basic EU term replacing Vino de Mesa.

      • “Joven”: Young wines not qualifying for Crianza (limited oak aging).

      • “Crianza”: At least two years aging, six months in oak (for reds).

      • “Reserva”: Total three years aging, one year in oak (for reds).

      • “Gran Reserva”: At least five years aging, one and a half years in oak (for reds).

The Regions of Spain

Northwest “Green” Spain

  • Galicia:

    • Characterized by rainy conditions producing highly valued wines like Rias Baixas.

    • Albarino grape noted for its perfume, acidity, and green apple character.

Old Castile (Castilla y Leon)

  • Bierzo:

    • Noted for rich wines made from Mencia, exhibits unique flavors blending olive, cherry, and black pepper.

  • Ribera del Duero:

    • Recognized for high-quality red wines; vineyards at heights of 2,400-2,600 feet.

    • Main grape: Tempranillo with Bordeaux varieties.

    • Tempranillo offers spicy, cherry flavors, has great depth and resists oxidation.

    • Noteworthy wine: Vega Sicilia's Unico, aged up to 8 years in oak.

  • Rueda:

    • Transitioned from oxidized whites to stylish dry whites from Verdejo and Sauvignon Blanc.

North-Central Spain

  • Rioja:

    • Spain's most famous wine region, gaining prominence in the 1850s with Bordeaux techniques.

    • Known for predominant use of American oak; increasing use of French oak.

    • Key grapes:

    • Red: Tempranillo, Garnacha, Mazuelo, Graciano.

    • White: Viura, Malvasia, Garnacha Blanca.

    • Sub-regions: Rioja Alavesa (coolest), Rioja Alta (warmer), Rioja Baja (hottest).

  • Navarra:

    • Extension of Rioja’s style; known for Garnacha and traditional Rosado wines.

Catalonia (Catalunya)

  • Penedes:

    • Major production area for Cava (sparkling wine).

    • Uses indigenous grapes: Xarel-lo, Parellada, Macabeo.

    • Similar production techniques to Champagne but with shorter aging requirements.

  • Priorato:

    • DOCa with low-yielding vineyards and international varietals.

    • Notable “Llicorella” soil contributes to flavor intensity and complexity.

  • Montsant:

    • A DO producing wines similar to Priorato but with less weight.

The Levant

  • Hotter regions with thick-skinned grape varieties.

  • Jumilla:

    • Focus on Monastrell; harvesting early for quality and balance.

The Meseta

  • La Mancha:

    • Largest fine wine region; primarily Airen and Cencibel (Tempranillo).

    • Production characterized by high-yielding grape varieties alongside international ones.

Andalusia

  • Known for Jerez (Sherry); major production area with diverse styles.

    • Sherry production methods involve unique maturation processes influenced by regional geography.

  • Key grape: Palomino Fino, adapted to local growing conditions.

Introduction to Portuguese Wine

  • Portugal’s potential in wine production remains underutilized compared to Spain despite similar conditions.

  • Factors influencing success:

    1. Reputation primarily based on low-quality wines.

    2. Cooperatives slow to innovate, impacting overall quality.

    3. Sometimes overly protective wine laws hinder quality advancement.

    4. Less utilization of international varietals.

    5. Fewer recognized wine regions for high-quality table wines.

Portugal's Wine Laws

  • Similar structure as Spain with distinct quality categories:

    1. Denominacao de Origem Controlada (DOC):

      • Highest quality designation akin to AOC/AOP.

    2. Indicacao Geograficas Protegidas (IGP):

      • EU designation for higher quality table wines.

    3. Vinho:

      • Basic wine designation prohibiting specific mentions on labels.

    4. “Reserva” and “Garrafeira”:

      • Categories indicating superior wines with stricter aging requirements.

Key Portuguese Wine Regions

Vinho Verde DOC

  • Known for fizzy white wines made primarily from local varieties; notable exceptions exist.

Douro DOC

  • Recognized as Portugal's most promising red wine region, producing deep and rich wines.

Dao DOC

  • Improvements in quality have been seen recently; historical limitations placed on grape purchasing.

Bairrada

  • Dominated by the Baga grape, producing challenging wines needing careful winemaking techniques.

Ribatejano VR and Ribatejo DOC

  • Previously characterized by high yields; now improving quality with investment.

Estremadura VR

  • Largest region, known for good value wines though traditionally moderate in quality.

Bucelas DOC

  • Noted for high-quality white wines made predominantly from Arinto grape.

Colares DOC

  • Famous for red wines but under threat from modernization.

Setubal Peninsula

  • Known for Moscatel de Setubal, made from Muscat of Alexandria.

Alentejano VR

  • A region of innovative winemaking; conducive conditions for a variety of grapes.

Alentejo DOC

  • An umbrella appellation encompassing various DOCs, producing diverse quality wines.

Algarve VR

  • Relies heavily on tourism, with the majority of wines sold locally rather than exported.

Port Wine

  • First mapped wine region; steep terraced vineyards producing Port.

    • Traditional methods and historical British influence shaped the production of Port.

  • Region divided into three: Baixa Corgo, Cima Corgo, Douro Superior.

  • Key grape varieties: Touriga Nacional, Tinta Cao, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca, Touriga Franca, Tinta Amarela.

  • Port production process involves maceration followed by fortification.

  • Styles of Port: Ruby, Tawny, Vintage, and others.

Madeira

  • Unique aging process via temperature influences and oxidation.

  • Historical importance to American trade during the revolution.

  • Age designations vary, differing from those in Port; must reflect the blend's youngest wine.