Ocean Currents and Tides - Quick Reference
Ocean Significance and Structure
- The ocean covers 70.8% of Earth's surface; contains 97% of Earth's water; hosts about 2.4×105 discovered species; regulates global temperatures; participates in the Hydrological and Carbon Cycles; essential for life.
- The upper part of the ocean in direct contact with the atmosphere is the mixed layer; it has nearly uniform properties of temperature and salinity and acts as a boundary layer with the atmosphere.
Ocean Currents: Overview
- Currents are masses of ocean water that flow from one place to another.
- Surface currents account for about 10% of the ocean’s movement; deep currents account for about 90%.
- Surface currents flow at the top; sinking occurs when surface water becomes denser (more salty or colder).
Surface Currents: Drivers and Characteristics
- Uneven solar heating creates wind; friction transfers momentum to the water surface; the wind direction is from low pressure to high pressure.
- Energy transfer efficiency to surface water is about 2%.
- Coriolis Effect deflects moving objects to the left or right depending on hemisphere.
- Ekman Transport: net water movement is at roughly 90∘ to the wind; typical influence depth around 100 m; surface currents typically slope at about 20∘−45∘ to the wind.
- Ekman processes can cause upwelling or downwelling in coastal regions.
Patterns of Global Circulation
- Surface currents closely follow the world’s major wind belts.
- Subtropical gyres form as large circular current systems; notable debris patches exist in the North Pacific Subtropical Gyre (trash vortex).
- Gulf Stream: a narrow western boundary current that carries warm water toward higher latitudes.
Deep Ocean Circulation and Thermohaline Circulation
- Deep currents have a vertical component and are density-driven.
- Thermohaline Circulation (Thermo = heat, Haline = salt) redistributes heat and nutrients; important for oxygen transport to deep waters and nutrient upwelling.
- Major driver: sinking of dense water in the North Atlantic; requirements include surface water becoming saltier (evaporation) and the North Atlantic water being cold and salty.
Atlantic Meridional Overturning Circulation (AMOC)
- AMOC is a system of Atlantic currents that circulates water: warm water moves north, cold water moves south; part of the global thermohaline circulation; Gulf Stream is a key component.
- Is AMOC slowing? Evidence suggests the overturning is slowing; models warn of a possible tipping point.
- Potential consequences: cooler temperatures in Europe and Eastern USA; disrupted tropical monsoons; warmer ocean temperatures can raise sea levels and fuel stronger, more frequent storms.
Ocean Bathymetry
- Ocean bathymetry shapes both deep and some surface currents; coastal and shelf features around NZ influence local circulation patterns.
- Tides are the regular rise and fall of sea level driven by gravity from the Moon and Sun; Earth’s rotation also modulates timing.
- The Equilibrium Theory (static) vs Dynamic Theory (accounts for depth, rotation, friction, resonance).
- Tidal bulge model: gravity pulls water toward the Moon, creating bulges; a second bulge forms opposite the Moon.
- The Sun’s tide-producing force is about 0.46 that of the Moon.
- Tides vary monthly due to geometry of Earth–Moon–Sun; spring tides (larger range) and neap tides (smaller range).
- Local features such as coastlines, bays, estuaries, and continental shelves modify tides.
Tides: Coastlines and Auckland Example
- Coastlines determine timing and magnitude of tides; shoreline shape and local currents influence patterns.
- Auckland experiences semidiurnal tides (two highs and two lows per day); average tidal range about 2.7 m (meso-tidal).
- East coast examples: Aug 13th range ≈ 2.84 m; Apr 31st range ≈ 1.9 m; perigee on the 14th; apogee on the 29th.
Measuring the Ocean from Space
- Measured variables from space: phytoplankton, temperature, waves, salinity, and ice cover.
- Satellites measure sea level and slope to derive surface currents.
- Salinity maps indicate regions of evaporation, precipitation, and river inflow; the Mediterranean Sea has high salinity due to evaporation; rainfall and upwelling lower salinity elsewhere; sea ice formation raises salinity as salt is left behind, driving dense water formation.
Thermohaline Circulation and Climate Feedback
- Thermohaline circulation involves deep-water formation and vertical overturning; crucial for regulating global climate and driving surface currents like the Gulf Stream.
- Warming climate shows signs of weakening the North Atlantic overturning, with potential Europe cooling, higher sea levels on Atlantic coasts, and more intense storms.
- Long-term datasets (e.g., ESA Climate Change Initiative) help monitor ocean–climate interactions.
Video Takeaways: Ocean Heat and Carbon
- Oceans store about 93% of the excess heat absorbed by Earth over the past ~70 years; they redistribute heat globally, influencing weather and regional climate.
- Oceans also act as a carbon sink, absorbing about 25% of anthropogenic CO₂ emissions; ongoing ocean acidification threatens marine life.
- Space measurements of phytoplankton, temperature, waves, salinity, and ice cover help track ocean health; satellites measure sea level and slope to infer surface currents.
- Salinity maps reflect evaporation/precipitation and river inputs; high evaporation (e.g., Mediterranean) raises salinity; rainfall/upwelling lowers salinity; sea-ice formation increases salinity as salt is excluded from freezing water.
- Thermohaline circulation involves deep water sinking and spreading over centuries; changes in this overturning can alter global climate and surface currents like the Gulf Stream.
- Climate warming may weaken the North Atlantic overturning, with consequences including cooler Europe, higher Atlantic coast sea levels, and stronger hurricanes; ESA provides long-term datasets for these trends.