Cosmetology Review Practice Questions
Biological Foundations: Onychology and Dermatology
The study of the structure and growth of the nails is formally known as onychology. The nail itself is composed of a protein substance called keratin. Anatomically, the portion of the nail plate that extends beyond the end of the finger is identified as the free edge, while the nail plate is constructed from layers of hard, keratinized nail cells. Any disease, disorder, or condition affecting the nail is referred to under the general term onychosis. Relatedly, dermatology is defined as the study of the skin, encompassing its structure, primary functions, diseases, and medical treatments. The skin is the largest organ of the human body and performs vital roles such as heat regulation to maintain a constant internal body temperature. The normal range of the skin is between . Structurally, the skin consists of three primary layers: the epidermis, the dermal layer, and the subcutaneous layer. The epidermis, which serves as the outer protective layer, is further subdivided into distinct layers.
Principles of Hair Sculpture and Formal Analysis
Hair sculpting is defined as the artistic carving or removing of hair lengths to create various forms and shapes. At the basic level of observation, designers identify a hair sculpture by its outer boundary or silhouette, known as the form line. The surface appearance or feel of the hair is called its texture. Texture categorized as unactivated refers to a completely smooth surface appearance, while activated texture indicates visible ends and surface variety. For analytical purposes, hair viewed as if it were projected at a $90^{\circ}$ angle from the various curves of the head is known as normal projection. The four basic forms used in sculpting are the solid form, graduated form, increase-layered form, and uniformly layered form.
Solid forms, often called one-length or blunt cuts, exhibit an unactivated texture. Graduated forms are frequently referred to as a wedge or a $45^{\circ}$ angle cut. The increase-layered form is characterized by a silhouette that resembles an oval shape and is most commonly sculpted using perpendicular distribution. The uniformly layered form is also known as a $90^{\circ}$ angle cut and does not result in an oval silhouette. Spatial divisions of the head include the widest area, known as the crest area; the hair positioned above this area is the interior, and the hair below the crest is the exterior. The concentration of length within a specific area is defined as weight.
Theoretical Framework of Design and Color
Design is the arrangement of shapes, lines, and ornamental effects to create an artistic whole. Professional designers utilize three levels of observation: basic, detail, and abstract. The three major elements of design are form, texture, and color. Forms and shapes are classified into three major categories: rectilinear, triangular, and curvilinear. A line is defined as a series of connected points and can be straight, curved, or a combination; vertical lines are those positioned perpendicular to the horizon, while concave lines curve inward like the interior of a sphere. The celestial axis is a term used to describe a tool or framework for identifying directions of lines.
Color theory is based on the visual perception of the reflection of light. The three primary colors are red, blue, and yellow. Mixing two primary colors in varying proportions produces secondary colors, such as orange, green, or violet. Tertiary colors, such as yellow-orange, are created by mixing primary and secondary colors. Colors opposite each other on the color wheel are complementary colors; for instance, blue-based colors are used to neutralize unwanted orange tones. Color level, or value, describes the degree of lightness or darkness of a color relative to itself and others. The tone of a color is categorized as warm, cool, or neutral. Warm colors typically contain yellow, orange, and/or red.
Fundamental design principles include repetition (all units identical), alternation (sequential change), progression (gradual increase or decrease), and contrast (opposite units that stimulate interest). Balance refers to a state of equilibrium between contrasting elements; symmetrical balance is equal, whereas asymmetrical balance occurs when weight is positioned unequally from a central axis.
Chemical Composition and Application of Hair Color
Hair color products are categorized by their ability to penetrate the hair and their chemical process. Nonoxidative colors include temporary products, which only coat the surface of the cuticle, and semi-permanent coloring, which uses small and large molecules to allow penetration into the cortex without oxidation. Oxidative colors include demi-permanent (long-lasting semi-permanent) and permanent colors. Demi-permanent colors use low-volume hydrogen peroxide () to develop molecules and add tone but are not designed to lift existing natural hair color. Permanent hair colors, often called oxidative tints with ammonia, are mixed with hydrogen peroxide to achieve both lift and deposit.
Hydrogen peroxide is the most common developer and has a level between . It must be mixed with ammonia or other alkaline compounds to become active. Developer strength is measured in volumes: a -volume solution lifts the hair approximately one level higher than a -volume solution, which typically provides two levels of lift. Lighteners use ammonia and peroxide to break down melanin. On-the-scalp lighteners have a of approximately , while off-the-scalp lighteners come in powder form and are stronger products. After initial application of oxidative color, the hairstrand swells to allow penetration. Products like permanent color require a skin patch test. Fillers are used before a service to provide an even base and can help lift and deposit color in one process. If hair is over-lightened, a toner may make it appear ashy or gray; toners are light pastel colors used to add warmth or coolness to pre-lightened hair.
Principles of Hair Reformation: Perming and Chemical Relaxing
Chemical reformation involves physical and chemical phases of equal importance. In perming, the physical phase involves wrapping hair around a tool using techniques like spiral or overlap; the chemical phase involves applying a perm solution to break disulfide bonds. A neutralizer is then applied to rebond and restore these disulfide bonds and reduce the swelling caused by alkalinity. Wrapping patterns include the bricklay pattern, and base control options include the commonly used half-off base. Proper end-paper techniques, such as the double-flat technique, are essential to prevent "fishhooks" or crimps at the ends. Normal dry hair can be stretched to of its length.
Chemical relaxing includes virgin relaxers and retouch services. A virgin relaxer can straighten natural hair up to and is usually applied to away from the scalp because body heat will cause the product to spread toward the scalp. Sodium hydroxide is the ingredient found in the stronger chemical relaxers. During a retouch, protective cream is applied to the previously processed hair. Clients should not shampoo for prior to a hydroxide relaxer. Key hair characteristics for these services include porosity (ability to absorb moisture) and density (number of hair follicles per square inch).
Professional Thermal Styling and Hair Pressing
Thermal designing involves drying and styling the hair using hand-held dryers, fingers, and various tools. Tools include the blow dryer, which should be used with a thermal-protectant and a concentrator (to control airflow) or a diffuser (for techniques like scrunching). Airflow should always be directed down the hairstrand from the scalp to the ends. Curling irons, introduced by Marcel Grateau, consist of the rod handle, barrel (or rod), shell handle, and the groove (or shell). Professional techniques include the ends technique for flips, the spiral technique (iron held vertically at the base), and the wand (cone-shaped tool) for waves. Heat is tested by bringing the hand near the barrel or using a damp towel or white paper towel for stove-heated tools.
Hair pressing is a temporary straightening service that lasts until the next shampoo. A soft press involves one application of the comb, while a hard or double press involves applying the heated spine of the comb twice with more pressure and heat. Fine hair requires less heat, whereas coarse, tightly curled hair is often resistant. To avoid "fishhook" ends, the hair ends must be fed all the way through the iron. When using thermal tools, a hard-rubber or nonflammable comb is placed between the iron and the scalp for protection.
Comprehensive Skin Care, Hair Removal, and Cosmetics
Facial treatments involve products and massage. Steps include toner, moisturizer, and protection, with cleansing used to remove dirt and makeup. Massage movements include effleurage (light, gentle stroking or circular movement) and petrissage (light or heavy kneading and rolling). High blood pressure is a contraindication for facial massage. Products should be removed from containers using a spatula. Hair removal methods include tweezing (performed in the direction of hair growth) and waxing. Soft wax is removed in the opposite direction of hair growth; hard wax is an alternative for sensitive clients.
Makeup application utilizes light and dark colors to create symmetry and balance. Contouring uses dark colors to recede features, while highlighting brings them forward. For a heart-shaped face, it is recommended to contour the forehead and highlight the jawline. The eye is divided into the eyelid, crease area, and brow bone. Foundation is used to create an even skin tone. Hygiene is critical: makeup brushes must be cleaned with soap and water and disinfected with an EPA-registered cleaner, and eyeliner/eyebrow pencils must be sharpened before and after each use.
Behavioral Protocols: The Four Service Essentials
The salon experience is managed through four essentials: Connect, Consult, Create, and Complete. During Connect, the client should be greeted within using their name to make them feel important. The Consult phase involves asking open-ended questions like "What final results do you want to see?" to uncover challenges (e.g., "dull" hair) and using a private area for record-keeping. The Create phase focuses on the service and explaining product benefits (e.g., "This product will increase shine"). The Complete phase involves reinforcing satisfaction, providing after-care advice, and follow-up. Professionalism dictates that stylists should not spend too much time talking about themselves and should always suggest add-on services and pre-booking to ensure an exceptional experience.
Aesthetic Assessment of Facial Proportions and Profiles
Analyzing a client involves assessing body shape and facial proportions. Three-sectioning is used to measure face proportions. Face shapes include:
- Oval: Complemented by most designs.
- Round: Elongated by adding height to the crown.
- Pear (Trapezoid): Characterized by a narrow forehead and wide jaw.
- Diamond: Appearance is minimized by avoiding width at the cheekbones.
- Heart: Also known as an inverted triangle.
Body shapes include various types, but "grapefruit" is not a recognized category. Tall and slender clients generally require longer hair or volume. A "profile" is an outline of the face from the side. A convex profile has a strong outward curvature (sloping forehead or chin), while a concave profile has an inward curve with a protruding forehead and chin. An angular profile specifically features a sloping forehead combined with a strong or protruding jaw.