Comprehensive Japanese-Indonesian Textile and Industrial Terminology Study Guide

Classification and Types of Textile Fibers

The fundamental unit of textile production is fiber, referred to in Japanese as Sen-i (繊維). These fibers are broadly categorized into two primary origins: Ten-nen Sen-i (天然繊維), which encompasses natural fibers, and Kagaku Sen-i (化学繊維), which refers to chemical or man-made fibers. Within the natural category, specific types include Momen (⽊綿) or cotton, Youmou (⽺⽑) or wool, Kinu (絹) or silk, and Asa (⿇), which includes rami and linen. A specific variety of rami is also identified as Ramii (ラミー). Additionally, fibers derived from plants are specifically termed Shokubutsu Sen-i (植物繊維).

Chemical fibers are further divided into categories based on their manufacturing process. Gousei Sen-i (合成繊維) refers to synthetic fibers, including common materials such as Polyester (ポリエステル), Nylon (ナイロン), Acrylic (アクリル), and Spandex (スパンデックス), which is also known as elastane. Saisei Sen-i (再⽣繊維) refers to regenerated fibers like Rayon (レーヨン), and Acetate (アセテート) is another specialized chemical fiber. In industrial production, different types of fibers are often mixed through a process called Konbou (混紡), which is the blending of fibers to achieve specific material characteristics. The resulting yarns are classified as either Filament-shi (フィラメント⽷), which are continuous filament yarns, or Bousekishi (紡績⽷), known as spun yarns.

Knitting Structures, Characteristics, and Measurements

Knitting, or Ami (編み), involves various organizational structures that determine the properties of the fabric. Common structures include Tenjiku-ami (天竺編み), also known as jersey or plain knit, and Gomu-ami (ゴム編み), which is a rib knit. Other specialized knits include Pearl-ami (パール編み) or purl knit, Kanoko-ami (⿅の⼦編み) representing piqué or lacoste fabric, Interlock-ami (インターロック編み) or interlock knit, and Fraise-ami (フライス編み), which is another term for rib knitting. In the knitting process, specific stitch types like Tuck (タック) or tuck stitch and Float (フロート), also called a miss stitch, are used to create patterns.

To describe the physical orientation and density of a knit fabric, several technical terms are utilized. Ueeru (ウエール) refers to the wale, which is the column direction of the knit, while Koosu (コース) refers to the course, representing the row direction. The density of the knit is known as Domoku (度⽬) or stitch density, and the length of the yarn used is the Amikomichou (編み込み⻑) or stitch length. The fineness of the knitting machine is measured by its Gauge (ゲージ), which scales the number of needles per inch. Fabric weight is measured as Metsuke (⽬付), expressed in units of $g/m^{2}$. Fabrication techniques include Cat-and-sew (カットソー) and Double Knit (ダブルニット), which refers to a double-layered or double-sided knit fabric.

Physical defects and behaviors of knit fabrics are also monitored. These include Shakou (斜⾏) or skewing where the fabric appears tilted, Curling (カーリング) where the edges of the fabric roll, and Pilling (ピリング), which refers to the formation of small fiber balls or gumpalan bulu on the surface.

Knitting Machinery and Component Technology

Industrial knitting is performed using advanced machinery such as the Maruamiki (丸編み機), which is a circular knitting machine. The core components of these machines include the Cylinder (シリンダ) and the Dial (ダイヤル). The actual knitting is performed by the Hari (針) or needles. There are specialized types like the Latch-bari (ラッチ針) or latch needle, which consists of parts such as the Bera (べら) or latch (lidah jarum) and the Hook (フック) or kait jarum. Other essential mechanical parts include the Sinker (シンカ), the Cam (かむ), and the Kyuushikou (給⽷⼝), which serves as the yarn feeder or mouthpiece.

Yarn management involves a Tension Souchi (テンション装置) to control the tightness of the yarn and Senshin (選針) for needle selection. The thickness and weight of the yarn are measured using several systems: Bante (番⼿) or yarn count, Denier (デニール), and Desitex (デシテックス), abbreviated as $dtex$. The physical structure of the yarn involves Yori (撚り) or twisting, which can occur in two directions: S-yori (S撚り) or S-twist and Z-yori (Z撚り) or Z-twist. When multiple yarns are combined, it is called Goushi (合⽷) or plying. Maintenance of these machines requires the use of Junkatsuyu (潤滑油) or lubricating oil.

Specialized Production of Hosiery

The manufacturing of Kutsushita (靴下) or socks involves specific anatomical parts and technical processes. A sock consists of the Kuchigomu (⼝ゴム) which is the waistband or upper elastic, the Kakato (踵) or heel, the Tsumasaki (⽖先) or toe, and the Ashizoko (⾜底) which is the sole or bottom of the foot. Related hosiery products include Pantyhose (パンティストッキング) and Knee-length (ニーレングス) socks that reach the knee.

Advanced knitting techniques for socks include Plating-ami (プレーティング編み), which utilizes two different yarns: the Omote-ito (表⽷) or face yarn and the Ura-ito (裏⽷) or back yarn. Specialized yarns used in this field include Covered Yarn (カバードヤーン), Woolly Nylon yarn (ウーリーナイロン⽷), and Gomu-ito (ゴム⽷), which is elastic or rubber yarn. Patterning is achieved through Jacquard-ami (ジャカード編み), Spiral-gara (スパイラル柄) or spiral patterns, and Links-gara (リンクス柄) or links patterns. The closing of the toe section is done via Linking (リンキング) or the Rosso (ロッソ) method. Machines for this process may utilize a Double Cylinder (ダブルシリンダ) setup and are protected by a Latch Guard (ラッチガード).

Colorants, Chemicals, and Dyeing Auxiliaries

Textile coloration involves the use of Senryou (染料) or dyes, as well as Ganryou (顔料) or pigments. Dyes are classified by their chemical properties and the fibers they target: Hannou Senryou (反応染料) (reactive dyes), Sansei Senryou (酸性染料) (acid dyes), Bunsan Senryou (分散染料) (disperse dyes), Chokusetsu Senryou (直接染料) (direct dyes), Cation Senryou (カチオン染料) (basic or cationic dyes), Tatezome Senryou (建染め染料) (vat dyes), and Kinzoku Sakuen Senryou (⾦属錯塩染料) (metal complex dyes). Additionally, Leveling Senryou (レベリング染料) are used to ensure even color distribution.

Chemicals used in the dyeing process include strong bases and salts. Suisankana toriumu (⽔酸化ナトリウム), also known as Kasei Soda (苛性ソーダ), is sodium hydroxide ($NaOH$). Ryuusannatoriumu (硫酸ナトリウム), also called Boushou (芒硝), is sodium sulfate or Glauber's salt ($Na_{2}SO_{4}$). Bleaching involves Kasankasuiso (過酸化⽔素) or hydrogen peroxide ($H_{2}O_{2}$). Auxiliary agents include Shouhouzai (消泡剤) or anti-foaming agents, Kinsenzai (均染剤) or leveling agents, Kansenzai (緩染剤) or retarding agents, and Baisenzai (媒染剤) or mordants. A Carrier (キャリヤー) may also be used to assist the dye in penetrating the fiber.

The Dyeing Process and Finishing Stages

The industrial process of Senshoku (染⾊) or dyeing follows a series of steps. It begins with Maeshori (前処理) or pre-treatment, which includes Seiren (精練) or scouring to clean the fibers and Hyouhaku (漂⽩) or bleaching to whiten them. Bleaching can be achieved through Sanka Hyouhaku (酸化漂⽩) (oxidation) or Kangen Hyouhaku (還元漂⽩) (reduction). After dyeing, Soaping (ソーピング) is performed for washing, followed by Kochaku (固着) or fixation to strengthen the dye bond.

Dyeing methods include Shinsen (浸染) or exhaust dyeing and Renzoku Senshoku (連続染⾊) or continuous dyeing. Key parameters include the Yokuhi (浴⽐) or liquor ratio and Shouon (昇温), which refers to the rise in temperature. Some processes require Kouon Kouatsu (⾼温⾼圧), meaning high temperature and high pressure (HT/HP). Specialized machinery includes the Ekiryuu Senshokuki (液流染⾊機) or jet dyeing machine, the Kakufu Senshokuki (拡布染⾊機) for open-width dyeing, the Rope Senshokuki (ロープ染⾊機) for rope-form dyeing, and the Cheese Senshokuki (チーズ染⾊機) for yarn packages. The final stages include Shiage (仕上げ) or finishing, Kansou (乾燥) or drying, and Silket Kakou (シルケット加⼯), which is the mercerization process.

Color Quality, Testing, and Chemical Properties

The durability of color is measured by Kenroudo (堅ろう度) or color fastness. Specific tests include Nikkou Kenroudo (⽇光堅ろう度) for light fastness, Sentaku Kenroudo (洗濯堅ろう度) for wash fastness, and Shitsujun Kenroudo (湿潤堅ろう度) for wet fastness. Degradation of color is noted as Hentaishoku (変退⾊) or color change and Osen (汚染) or staining. Testers use the Blue Scale (ブルースケール) and Grey Scale (グレースケール) for evaluation.

In color science, the three attributes of color are Shikisou (⾊相) or hue, Meido (明度) or lightness, and Saido (彩度) or saturation. Colors without hue are termed Musaishoku (無彩⾊) or achromatic. A common optical phenomenon where colors appear different under different light sources is Metamerism (メタメリズム). Testing requires a stable Kougen (光源) or light source, often utilizing the light from a Kitamado (北窓) or northern window. Chemical conditions are monitored by the pH (ぴーえいち) level, where Chuusei (中性) or neutral is represented by a value of $7$. Processes involve Youeki (溶液) or solutions, Youkai (溶解) or dissolution, and potentially Kasuibunkai (加⽔分解) or hydrolysis.

Bedding Production and Material Science

The manufacturing of Shingu (寝具) or bedding involves products like the Shiki-futon (敷きふとん) (floor mattress), Kake-futon (掛けふとん) (duvet or quilt), Zabuton (座ぶとん) (sitting cushion), and Makura (まくら) (pillow). High-end bedding like the Umou-futon (⽻⽑ふとん) uses Down (ダウン) or fine feathers and Feather (フェザー) or wing feathers. The interior involves Nakawata (中わた) or cotton padding/filling, while the exterior is the Gawakiji (側⽣地) or shell fabric.

Production techniques include Quilting (キルティング), Nakatoji (中とじ) or tufting, and Wataire (綿⼊れ) or filling the cotton. Old bedding can be refreshed through Uchinaoshi (打ち直し) or the regeneration of cotton. The production workflow involves Saidan (裁断) or cutting and Kentan (検反) or fabric inspection. Important quality markers for bedding are Nuime (縫い⽬) or the seam/stitch, Itome (ⷷ⽬) or stitch length, Kyuushitsusei (吸湿性) or moisture absorption, and Tsuukisei (通気性) or air permeability.

Workplace Safety and Occupational Health

Maintaining Anzen (安全) or safety and identifying Kiken (危険) or hazards are paramount in manufacturing. Workers must use Hogogu (保護具) or Personal Protective Equipment (PPE), which includes Bougo Mask (防護マスク) (protective mask), Gomu Tebukuro (ゴム⼿袋) (rubber gloves), and Hogo Megane (保護眼鏡) (protective goggles). Electrical safety hazards like Kanden (感電) or electric shock and Rouden (漏電) or electrical leakage are mitigated using Earth (アース) or grounding, and Fuse (ヒューズ). Machinery is equipped with an Anzenben (安全弁) or safety valve.

In case of accidents, Okyuuchochi (応急処置) or first aid is administered, especially for injuries like Yakedo (やけど) or burns. Environmental safety includes proper Kanki (換気) or ventilation. To prevent Roudou Saigai (労働災害) or work-related accidents, factories follow Seiri Seiton (整理整頓), part of the 5S system for tidiness and order. Technical maintenance involves checking the Dengen (電源) or power source, looking for Kiretsu (⻲裂) or cracks, and maintaining the Netsu Koukanki (熱交換器) or heat exchanger. Bedding products may also undergo Bou-dani Kakou (防ダニ加⼯) or anti-mite treatment.

Quality Management and Production Standards

Management focuses on Hinshitsu (品質) or quality through Kenpin (検品) or product inspection to identify Furyou (不良) or defects. These can include Senshoku Furyou (染⾊不良) (dyeing defect) and Ami Furyou (編み不良) (knitting defect). Products must meet specific Sunpou (⼨法) or dimensions and Kikaku (規格) or standards, specifically the Nihon Sangyou Kikaku (⽇本産業規格), known as JIS (Japanese Industrial Standards).

Transparency is maintained through Hinshitsu Hyouji (品質表⽰) or quality labeling and Sosei Hyouji (組成表⽰) or composition labeling, which details the Konyouritsu (混⽤率) or fiber blend ratio. Operational efficiency is tracked via Hyoujun Sagyoushikan (標準作業時間) or standard working time, Sagyou Bunseki (作業分析) or work analysis, and Sagyou Nippou (作業⽇報) or daily work reports. This falls under Seisan Kanri (⽣産管理) or production management. Facilities require regular Maintenance (メンテナンス) and monitoring of Shoumouhin (消耗品) or consumables. Environmental conditions are measured via Shoudo (照度) or light intensity, measured in Lux (ルクス). Finally, the durability of a finished product is often tested for Taimamousei (耐摩耗性) or abrasion resistance.