Chapter 11 Study Notes: In Hong Kong and Macao, 1888
Chapter 11: In Hong Kong and Macao, 1888
Background of Jose Rizal
Hounded by Enemies:
Rizal was forced to leave his country for a second time in February 1888 due to powerful adversaries.
At 27 years of age, he was a practicing physician and recognized man of letters, unlike his first departure in June 1882 when he was just a 21-year-old student seeking wisdom.
Transformation in Perspective:
Rizal evolved from a youthful romantic idealist with dreams of freedom for his people to an embittered victim of injustice, a disillusioned dreamer, and a frustrated reformer.
Trip to Hong Kong
Departure Details:
Date of Departure: February 3, 1888.
Mode of Transport: On board the vessel Zafiro.
Emotional State: Rizal felt sick and sad during the rough crossing of the China Sea.
Stopover at Amoy:
Date: February 7, 1888.
Decision Against Disembarking: Rizal chose not to get off due to feeling unwell, inclement weather, and his aversion to the dirty city.
Arrival in Hong Kong:
Date: February 8, 1888.
Letter to Blumentritt
Date: February 16, 1888.
Expression of Bitterness:
Rizal felt liberated to express his thoughts freely, contrasting his situation in the Philippines where he experienced censorship.
He describes his forced departure, mentioning a close friend Lieutenant Taviel de Andrade who aided him during this time.
He notes the pressure from various parties in the Philippines who sought to remove him from influence.
Accusations Against Him:
He faced complaints from archbishops and other divisions of society.
A denunciation claimed he held secret meetings with men and women, which he dismisses as a mere morning walk.
Financial Support from Countrymen:
Many Filipinos offered him money to facilitate his exit for their own protective reasons too, hinting at collective concerns for his activism.
Conclusion of the Letter:
Rizal expresses hope of returning to Europe via Japan and the United States.
Life in Hong Kong
Accommodation:
Stayed at Victoria Hotel.
Welcoming Community:
Received by Filipino residents including notable figures such as Jose Maria Basa, Balbino Mauricio, and Manuel Yriarte.
Surveillance:
Spanish authorities seemingly employed Jose Sainz de Varanda to monitor Rizal's movements in Hong Kong.
Description of Hong Kong:
Rizal noted that it was a small, yet clean city with a diverse population—Portuguese, Hindus, English, Chinese, Jews, and some impoverished Filipino exiles.
Visit to Macao
Ferry Journey to Macao:
Date: February 18, 1888.
Accompanied by Basa; encountered Sainz de Varanda on board.
Rizal’s Impression of Macao:
Described Macao as a “small, low, and gloomy” place with a sense of sadness and lethargy prevalent among its surroundings.
Accommodation:
Stayed with Don Juan Francisco Lecaros, a wealthy Filipino gentleman who was married to a Portuguese woman.
Experiences During the Stay
Cultural Activities:
Rizal visited various sites including the theatre, casino, cathedral, and botanical garden.
Notable symbolic sites included the Grotto of Camoens, a tribute to Portugal's national poet.
Procession Observation:
Rizal witnessed a Catholic procession attended by devotees adorned in blue and purple clothing, showcasing community reverence.
Return to Hong Kong:
Date: February 20, 1888, via ferry steamer Kiu Kiang.
Experiences in Hong Kong
Studied Local Culture:
Rizal's two-week stay involved learning about Chinese customs, language, and drama.
Event Catalog:
Chinese New Year: Held from February 11-13. Notable for continuous firecracker explosions, with wealthier families showcasing more.
Chinese Theatre: Characterized by lively performances, where actions indicated specific meanings, such as:
A man astride a stick symbolizing horseback riding.
An actor’s leg raise indicating entering a house.
A red dress indicating a wedding.
Lauriat Party: A lengthy banquet featuring numerous exotic dishes:
Featured items included dried fruits, geese, shrimps, century eggs, shark fins, bird nests, and more.
Cemetery Observations:
Noted the beauty of Protestant cemeteries compared to the ornate Catholic ones and the simplicity of Muslim cemeteries.
Departure from Hong Kong
Date of Departure: February 22, 1888.
Transport: On board the Oceanic, an American steamer, en route to Japan.
Passenger Experience:
Disliked the meals but appreciated the cleanliness and organization of the ship.
Made notable conversations with various passengers from different backgrounds, including a British Protestant missionary who possessed extensive knowledge of the Chinese language.