International Vogue Editions: Ownership, Culture, and Case Studies

Ownership and Operation of Vogue Titles

• Conde Nast Operations: The majority of Vogue editions are owned and operated by the publishing house Conde Nast.
• Joint Ownership: Vogue China serves as a unique example where the title is co-owned by Conde Nast and a state-owned publishing house within China.
• Licensed Titles: The majority of other international Vogue titles are licensed.
  • Definition: These are owned by third-party publishing houses that pay a fee to use the Vogue branding.
  • Brand Linkage: While the link to core Vogue values may be more tenuous in licensed titles compared to Owned and Operated (O&O) titles, they must still adhere to the general Vogue brand identity.
• Conde Nast Oversight for Licensed Titles:
  • All magazine covers must be approved by Conde Nast.
  • All senior-level hires must receive approval.
  • The Editor's Letters (the introduction at the start of each issue) must be approved.
  • Any major events or the creation of brand extensions (such as a "Men's Book") require corporate approval.

Cultural Relevancy and Brand Consistency

• The Balancing Act: International editions must maintain a balance between core Vogue elements/values and specific cultural relevancy to their local markets.
• Vogue Scandinavia (Licensed Title):
  • Global Elements: Focuses on culture, high fashion brands, sustainability, and celebrities.
  • Local Lens: Tailors content specifically for the Scandinavian market.
    • Example: Feature articles on the Swedish Royal Family, which would not be considered relevant for the American edition.
    • Brands: Highlights Scandinavian brands that lack international market relevance elsewhere.
• Vogue Arabia:
  • Geographic Scope: Groups several Arabic-speaking countries across the Middle East and North Africa.
  • Content Strategy: Focuses on "high luxury," such as fine jewelry and high-end fashion.
  • Cultural Nuance: Contributors must be mindful of modesty and conservative values common within Muslim-majority countries.
  • Instructional Moto: "Attention to these cultural differences and nuances whilst adhering to these core values is the name of the game."

The Global Vogue Portfolio and History

• Founding Dates:
  • American Vogue: Founded in $1892$.
  • Vogue Britain: Established in $1916$.
  • Vogue France: Established in $1920$.
  • Vogue Germany: Established in $1920$.
• Growth Cycles: The portfolio has seen issues fold and reopen over time, with a significant surge in new international additions appearing in the $1990\text{s}$.

Comparative Case Study: Vogue UK vs. American Vogue ($\text{April } 2024$)

• Cover Star: Zendaya featured on the covers of both the UK and American editions simultaneously.
• Creative Teams:
  • Stylist: Law Roach (styled both covers).
  • Vogue UK Photographer: Carleen Jacobs.
  • American Vogue Photographer: Annie Leibovitz.
• Stylistic Differences and Cultural Interpretations:
  • Vogue UK Aesthetic:
    • The mood is described as "chill" and "elevated sporty."
    • The fashion is reminiscent of streetwear or an "urban artist" look, featuring items like an Adidas or E.S. France top.
    • The cover is text-heavy with multiple article headlines.
  • American Vogue Aesthetic:
    • The mood is "classy" and focuses on high fashion couture.
    • Zendaya is styled in ball gowns from Dior and Schiaparelli.
    • The cover is minimalist with almost no text, treated as an "art piece" where the image is central.
  • Cultural Drivers:
    • The American focus on couture coincided with major fashion shows the magazine intended to highlight.
    • The UK's sportier look connects to the film project "Challengers," where Zendaya plays a tennis player/coach.

Case Study: Vogue Philippines and Apo Whang-Od

• Launch: Launched as a licensed title in $2022$.
• The Representative Cover ($\text{April } 2023$):
  • Model: Apo Whang-Od, a living legend and tattoo artist from the Philippines.
  • Age: At the time of the cover, she was $106\,\text{years old}$; as of the lecture, she is $110\,\text{years old}$.
  • Cultural Significance: She practices an ancient "hand-tapping" tattoo method specific to certain regions of the Philippines.
• Global Impact:
  • The cover went viral globally, shared by celebrities including Halle Berry, Zaya Prada, Cara Delevingne, and Kourtney Kardashian.
  • It was featured on local news reports in the United States.
• Significance of the Story:
  • Inclusivity: Challenges traditional beauty standards by representing elderly and indigenous figures.
  • Market Expansion: Appending to a wider audience beyond the typical youth-focused demographic.
  • Human Connection: Themes of aging and non-classical beauty resonate across cultural boundaries, creating a common thread of shared human experience.

Case Study: Vogue Adria and the Theme of Unity

• Launch: Established in $2024$.
• Geographic Unification: Groups $5$ countries in the Adriatic region: Serbia, Croatia, Slovenia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, and Montenegro.
• Political Context: This is the first time a single magazine has spoken to the entire region, which has faced significant political turmoil and war in semi-recent history.
• Identity and Logistics:
  • Motto: "Nova Zora" (meaning "A New Dawn").
  • Location of Shoot: Lido Island in Belgrade, chosen to symbolize a dialogue between the region and Western Europe.
  • Cover Imagery:
    • A melancholic blue palette symbolizing purity, past sadness, and freedom.
    • Prominent angel wings representing death but also a "holistic freeing."
  • Fashion Choice: The model wore an archival Lanvin dress given to her by Alber Elbaz in $2007$. This was a deliberate choice to emphasize sustainability and personal storytelling over current retail trends.
• Launch and Marketing:
  • Heavy focus on social media momentum, influencers, and "behind the scenes" pre-parties.
  • The launch event incorporated regional nationalism/patriotism through specific music, food, and films shown on a giant domed ceiling.
• Editor-in-Chief's Statement on Politics: "Tonight marks a new dawn, a new chapter for our region. My only wish is that all the beauty we offer finds its way to the world and puts us back on the map where we belong."

Questions & Discussion

• Question (Student): Regarding the Zendaya covers, why does the British one have so many words while the American one has none?
• Answer (Instructor): The American cover is focused on the centrality of the image, presenting it as art. It also coincided with couture fashion shows, which is why she is wearing Dior and Schiaparelli archival prints. The UK cover focuses more on her film "Challengers."
• Question (Instructor): What is the mood and definition of fashion in the UK vs. US Zendaya shoots?
• Response (Student): In the UK, it’s closer to home, something you’d see on the street but photographed to look high fashion. In the US, it is aspirational and less accessible because she is in ball gowns.
• Question (Instructor): Why did the Vogue Philippines cover with a $106\text{-year-old}$ model matter so much worldwide?
• Response (Student): Because it is unique and stands out from the young celebrities we usually see. It appeals to a wider audience and increases the target market. It also touches on universal experiences like aging.