Text Hist: The Northern Renaissance

The Northern Renaissance c. 1500 - 1600

Cod pieces- hold together the pants, excessively padded

Pumpkin britches- balloon-shaped leg holes

Stays- same as pair of bodies

Extremely low U or pear-shaped waistline on corsets

farthing - pads that sat on the sides of the hop to widen top of skirt, bigger and flatter edge = wealthier

  • Phase 1: 1500 - 1515: Similar to the late Middle Ages in components. Shoes now round at the toe.

  • Phase 2: 1515 – 1550: Wide, full, puffs, slashes, and panes.

  • Phase 3: 1550 – 1600: Narrower shoulders, gradually wider at hip. Trunk hose.

  • There was an early phase in which a transition was made styles to the styles of the Renaissance (c. 1500–1515). 

    • Doublet and hose laced together. 

    • Jackets were worn with wide skirts called bases: skirt-like devices under doublets.

  • The second phase concentrated in the second to the fourth decades of the century, in which strong German Influence can be seen (c. 1515 – 1550).

    • Shoulders of doublets and short robes were wide.

  • In the final phase, Spanish influences predominated (c. 1550 –1600).

    • Doublets were cut with a distinctive shape called peascod belly.

  • Phase 1: 1500 - 1530 Transition from Middle Ages.

  • Phase 2: 1530 -1575: Spanish influenced change to petticoat and overdress with Spanish Farthingale

  • Phase 3: 1575 - 1600: Growth of skirt, supported by hoop called Cartwheel or French Farthingale

  • While the chemise continued as the undermost garment, women’s underwear now took on the function of providing shape to the clothes

    • Stays-

    • Busk- 

    • Farthingale- a cone-shaped device meant to hold the skirt out, whalebone rings or hoops

    • Bum Roll-

  • Hair was held in nets, hats were large and feathered, and large gold chains were important accessories.

  • Sometimes women wore a loosely fitted overdress called a ropa.- usually made out of velvet and frequently embossed

  • A sheer cape with a standing collar called a conch was worn with dresses.

  • Standing ruffs (not closed in front, meant to give height) , neck ruff(closed in front) - collars made of lace

  • Lots of lace- bobbin lace, tatting, etc.