History of Fashion 7th Lesson

Lesson Overview

  • Focus: Fashion Designers in History

  • Key Figures Covered:

    • Elsa Schiaparelli

    • Madeleine Vionnet

    • Madame Grès

Surrealism

  • Definition: A twentieth-century movement in literature, philosophy, and art.

    • Explored the workings of the mind and emphasized the irrational and poetic aspects of experience.

    • Aimed to revolutionize human experience by rejecting rational views of life in favor of the unconscious and dreams.

  • Terminology:

    • The term ‘surrealist’ coined by Guillaume Apollinaire in a play from 1903, performed in 1917.

    • André Breton in the Surrealist Manifesto (1924):

    • Defined surrealism as "pure psychic automatism, by which one proposes to express, either verbally, in writing, or by any other manner, the real functioning of thought. Dictation of thought in the absence of all control exercised by reason, outside of all aesthetic and moral preoccupation".

  • Techniques:

    • Artists engaged in automatic drawing and writing techniques to reveal subconscious thoughts.

    • Many sought to visualize dreamscapes or internal psychological conflicts.

  • Impact:

    • Surrealism became an international cultural movement that influenced the cultural climate of multiple countries between the world wars.

    • Many consider it concluded with André Breton's death in 1966.

  • Influential Artwork: Salvador Dalì, Metamorphosis of Narcissus, 1937, located in the Tate Gallery, London.

Elsa Schiaparelli (1890–1973)

Overview

  • Notable Fashion Designer known for her avant-garde creations and contributions to Surrealist fashion.

Notable Works and Events

  • 'Trompe-l'oeil' Wool Bowknot Sweater and Skirt

    • Illustrated by Douglas Pollard, featured in Vogue, December 1927.

  • Controversial Trouser Skirt (May 1931)

    • Worn by Schiaparelli while shopping in London, caused significant controversy and was condemned by the British press.

  • Beach-Pijama (1931)

    • Wool jersey bikini pictured in Vogue (July 1, 1931), photographed by George Hoyningen-Huene.

  • Evening Dress (Autumn Collection, 1931)

    • Rayon dress designed by Jean Dunand, photographed by Man Ray.

  • Suits Collection (1932)

    • Featured in Vogue.

  • Cover of Time Magazine (August 1934)

    • Headline referred to her gadget-centered philosophy.

  • Couture House Relocation (1935)

    • Moved to Hôtel de Fontpertuis, Place Vendôme:

    • Five stories, 98 rooms, designed by Jean-Michel Frank (interior designer) and Alberto Giacometti (sculptor).

    • First modern interpretation combining a boutique and atelier.

  • Advertising Zippers (Autumn 1935)

    • Featured in her collections with self-toning and contrasting zippers for aesthetic appeal.

  • Cape de Verre (1935)

    • Created from Rhodophane, used in 1934 winter collection.

  • Gloves (Winter 1936-1937)

    • Black suede and red snakeskin design.

  • Desk Suit (Winter 1936-1937)

    • Photo by Cecil Beaton, seen in December 1936 issue of Vogue France.

  • Lobster Evening Dress (Summer 1937)

    • Collaboration with Salvador Dalì, used printed silk.

  • 'Shoe' Hat (Winter 1937-1938)

    • Wool felt design, maintain surrealist aesthetic.

  • 'Circus' Collection (Summer 1938)

    • Incorporated circus themes with innovative designs like 'Tear' Dress and 'Skeleton Dress'.

  • 'Païenne' (Pagan) Collection (Fall 1938)

    • Showcases details of evening dresses, jackets and themes influenced by classical art.

    • Example: Dress influenced by Sandro Botticelli's work.

Collaborations and Influence

  • Collaborated with artists such as Salvador Dalì and Jean Cocteau.

  • Dalì's and Schiaparelli’s joint works explore surrealism and visual arts, employing cultural symbols and avant-garde styles.

Madeleine Vionnet

Overview

  • Renowned Designer known for her innovative draping techniques and the modern silhouette.

Key Contributions

  • Crepe Romaine Pajamas (November 1931)

    • Featured in Vogue, showcasing her draping artistry.

  • Evening Dress (1935)

    • High-quality fabric and meticulous craftsmanship.

  • Influence and Modern Draping

    • Inspired contemporary designers with extravagant drapery and geometrical forms.

Madame Grès

Overview

  • Germaine Emilie Krebs, better known as Madame Grès, known for intricate drapery and elegance.

Key Contributions

  • Evening Dresses (1935-1938)

    • Recognized for creating timeless creations that celebrate the art of draping while honoring feminine form.

Further Readings

  • Recommended literature for deeper understanding:

    • Baxter-Wright B., The Little Book of Schiaparelli.

    • Blum D., Shocking! The Art and Fashion of Elsa Schiaparelli.

    • Mears P., Madame Grès: Sphinx of Fashion.

    • Kirke B., Madeleine Vionnet.

    • Schiaparelli S., Shocking Life.