The Garment Industry in Bangladesh
Rana Plaza Collapse
In April 2013, the Rana Plaza garment factory in Bangladesh collapsed, leading to over 1,100 deaths and 2,500 injuries. This event highlighted the severe consequences of poor safety standards and the intense pressures within the fast fashion industry.
Fast Fashion and the Race to the Bottom
The fashion industry often conceals the grim realities behind its glamorous facade. Fast fashion is driven by a "race to the bottom," where the primary goal is to produce clothing at the lowest possible cost.
This relentless pursuit of low prices has made Bangladesh a central hub for garment production, often at the expense of worker safety and fair wages.
The Allure of Bangladesh
Sujeet Sennik: A designer who previously worked for prestigious fashion houses like Christian Dior and Balenciaga, later found himself designing for Walmart due to the increasing demand for fast fashion. This transition illustrates the industry-wide shift towards prioritising affordability over high-end design.
The global recession intensified the focus on low prices, solidifying Bangladesh's role as a key player in garment manufacturing.
Between 2001 and 2010, Canada experienced a significant loss of approximately 75,000 garment industry jobs as companies relocated their operations to Bangladesh to take advantage of lower production costs.
Barry Laxer: A third-generation garment businessman who moved his operations to Bangladesh to remain competitive in the global market. Despite the challenges, his company, Radical Designs, operates two factories outside Dhaka. It employs over 1,000 workers, paying them three times the minimum wage, demonstrating that ethical production is possible even in a cost-driven environment.
The Labour Cost Advantage
The primary motivation for companies to operate in Bangladesh is the exceptionally low cost of labor.
Garment workers in Bangladesh earn approximately a month, or just cents an hour, making them the lowest-paid garment workers in the world. These low wages contribute significantly to the affordability of fast fashion but perpetuate cycles of poverty and exploitation.
In 2003, Canada eliminated import duties from Bangladesh, leading to a remarkable increase in imports. This policy change further incentivized Canadian companies to source garments from Bangladesh.
Joe Fresh and the Focus on Low Prices
Loblaw's brand, Joe Fresh, is a dominant force in the Canadian children's wear market, emphasizing trendy fashion at highly accessible prices. This business model relies heavily on low production costs.
Walmart similarly focuses on providing stylish clothing at remarkably low prices, contributing to the demand for inexpensive garments manufactured in countries like Bangladesh.
Designers like Sujeet Sennik faced immense pressure to continually reduce costs, sometimes to the point of making seemingly insignificant changes like reducing the number of buttons on a shirt. These small cost-saving measures add up when producing garments on a massive scale.
Factory owners also feel compelled to accept large orders to keep their factories running and avoid financial losses due to idle time. This pressure can lead to cutting corners on safety and labor standards.
Worker Safety Concerns
Prior to the Rana Plaza collapse, Bangladesh's garment industry had a troubling history of factory fires and building collapses, resulting in numerous fatalities. These incidents underscored the urgent need for improved safety measures and oversight.
The Rana Plaza collapse on April 24, 2013, resulted in over 1,100 deaths and brought international attention to the unsafe working conditions in many Bangladeshi garment factories.
Following the Rana Plaza collapse, Sujeet Sennik made the ethical decision to resign from his job, reflecting a growing awareness of the human cost of fast fashion.
Conditions in Bangladesh Factories
Bangladesh's garment industry has been a key driver of the country's economic growth since the 1990s, providing employment for millions of people, primarily women. However, this growth has come at a significant social and environmental cost.
The industry is plagued by challenges, including high population density, political instability, and widespread corruption, hindering efforts to improve working conditions and enforce regulations.
Millions of garment workers endure grueling commutes to work in Dhaka each day, often traveling in overcrowded and unsafe vehicles. This adds to the daily hardships faced by these workers.
Tazreen Fashion Factory Fire
In November 2012, a devastating fire at the Tazreen Fashion factory claimed the lives of 112 people. This tragedy highlighted the egregious safety violations prevalent in many factories.
The factory lacked essential safety features such as fire escapes, and many doors were blocked or locked. Windows were barred, preventing workers from escaping the flames.
Walmart had connections to the Tazreen factory, with shorts bearing the Walmart label found in the ashes. Walmart claimed that the production was unauthorized, but the incident raised questions about their oversight of their supply chain.
Walmart's Involvement and Factory Audits
Walmart maintains a list of banned factories in Bangladesh that have failed to meet their safety and labor standards during audits. However, the effectiveness of these audits has been questioned.
Shipping records revealed that a Walmart shirt was manufactured at Hasan Tanvir, a factory that had been on Walmart's banned list since June. This discrepancy exposed the challenges of monitoring and enforcing compliance within complex global supply chains.
Walmart admitted that clothing production continued at Hasan Tanvir for one final order, even after the factory had been blacklisted. This decision raised concerns about prioritizing profit over ethical considerations.
Meeting with Garment Workers
Workers at Hasan Tanvir reported a recent fire at the factory, emphasizing the ongoing safety risks they faced. They also stated that they are often locked inside the factory during work, a clear violation of basic human rights.
The workers confirmed that they were currently producing garments for Canada, highlighting the continued reliance of Canadian brands on Bangladeshi factories with questionable safety records.
Sujeet Sennik had a poignant meeting with the woman who made the shirt he designed, expressing his deep concern for her well-being and his desire for her to have a better life, in a safe workplace.
Aftermath and Investigation
Clothing manufactured in Rana Plaza was discovered in stores in the Toronto area just three months after the collapse, indicating the speed at which the fast fashion cycle operates. Sales associates were often unaware of the garments' origin.
Loblaw's shipping records confirmed that garments were indeed made in Rana Plaza and sold in Joe Fresh stores, despite the company's claims of ethical sourcing.
Bazlus Adnan, the owner of three factories in Rana Plaza, identified Joe Fresh as his biggest client. He stated that he expanded his business to meet their demands, illustrating the significant influence of major brands on factory operations.
Adnan claimed that all parties, including Joe Fresh, exerted pressure on him to produce clothing cheaper and faster, ensuring timely shipments. This pressure contributed to the cost-cutting measures that compromised safety.
Loblaw outsourced ethical responsibility to third-party buying houses and inspectors, creating a buffer between the company and the actual working conditions in the factories. This practice allowed them to distance themselves from direct accountability.
Aruti's Story: A Garment Worker's Experience
Aruti, a young garment worker who was either 15 or 17 years old, survived the Rana Plaza collapse, but tragically lost her leg and her mother, both of whom were working in the factory making clothes for Joe Fresh. Her story exemplifies the human cost of the fast fashion industry.
She worked as a seamstress, sewing pocket seams and producing approximately 150 pockets per hour. This repetitive and demanding work took a toll on her physical and mental health.
Aruti began working in the garment industry at the age of 12 due to extreme poverty. Her story is unfortunately common, as many children are forced into labor to support their families.
She worked 12-hour shifts, 7 days a week, and faced constant pressure to work overtime to meet production targets. These long hours and demanding conditions left her exhausted and vulnerable.
Aruti recalled noticing cracks in the Rana Plaza building the day before the collapse. Despite her fears and concerns, she was forced to return to work, highlighting the lack of agency and power among garment workers.
The Collapse and Its Impact
During the collapse, Aruti was trapped under the weight of dead bodies on the 6th floor of Rana Plaza. Her survival was nothing short of miraculous.
She received some compensation from the government, but it was insufficient to cover her medical expenses and long-term needs. She was still hoping to receive additional aid from Loblaw to rebuild her life.
Further Investigation and Unethical Practices
Subsequent investigations revealed further unethical practices within the Bangladeshi garment industry. One factory was discovered dumping wastewater into a river, causing severe environmental damage. Another factory was found to be employing child labor, a clear violation of international labor laws.
Workers organized protests outside the BGMEA (Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association) headquarters to demand unpaid wages. However, they were met with violence, as gangsters attacked the protesters, underscoring the risks associated with advocating for workers' rights.
Atiqul Islam's Response
Atiqul Islam, the head of the garment industry, offered a dismissive response to abused workers, advising them to quit their jobs and seek employment elsewhere, claiming that there was a worker shortage. This statement demonstrated a lack of empathy and a failure to address the systemic issues within the industry.
He downplayed concerns about illegal subcontracting and dangerous working conditions, further minimizing the severity of the problems. However, he acknowledged that retailers needed to take some responsibility for ensuring ethical practices.
Following an interview, Islam was observed defacing a shirt tag in an apparent attempt to conceal its origin, raising questions about transparency and accountability.
Loblaw's Response and Industry Responsibility
Loblaw publicly stated its commitment to cleaning up the industry and made a contribution of one million dollars to charities. They also joined a compliance accord aimed at improving factory safety. However, critics argued that these measures were insufficient and that more comprehensive reforms were needed.
Barry Laxer took a more proactive approach by building a safe factory run by a Canadian team and making regular visits to ensure ethical operations. His commitment demonstrates that responsible production is possible with careful oversight and investment.
Laxer predicted that another Rana Plaza-like disaster was likely to occur due to the persistent pressure to sell cheap products, highlighting the urgent need for systemic change.
Conclusion
The site of the Rana Plaza collapse now stands as a monument to greed and a stark reminder of the human cost of fast fashion. It serves as a call to action for greater ethical responsibility and transparency within the industry.
Consumers face a difficult dilemma when considering whether to boycott Bangladeshi-made clothes. While such a boycott could hurt the industry and lead to job losses, it could also send a powerful message to brands and retailers about the need for change.
Aruti, despite the trauma she endured, recognizes that she needs to return to work to support her family. Her story underscores the complex challenges faced by garment workers in Bangladesh, who often
Rana Plaza Collapse: Garment Industry Safety
Rana Plaza Collapse Anniversary
Nine years since the Rana Plaza collapse on April 24, 2013, a catastrophic event that killed 1,138 people and injured over 2,500. The disaster occurred in Savar, a sub-district near Dhaka, Bangladesh.
The collapse exposed severely unsafe labor conditions in the garment sector in Bangladesh, highlighting systemic issues of negligence and lack of safety enforcement. Many workers, mostly women, were producing clothes for major global brands.
The Clean Clothes Campaign (CCC) advocates for safe factories through legally binding agreements that ensure worker safety.
Call to Action: International Accord for Health and Safety
The CCC urges companies to sign the International Accord for Health and Safety in the Textile and Garment Sector, a commitment to ensuring factory safety through independent inspections and remediation.
This accord is a safety mechanism created after the Rana Plaza collapse. It mandates independent building inspections, worker training programs, and financial contributions from brands to ensure factory upgrades. The third iteration includes expanded scope and stronger enforcement.
171 brands sourcing from Bangladesh have signed the agreement, including H&M, Inditex (Zara), and Fast Retailing (UNIQLO), demonstrating a commitment to improving worker safety standards.
Brands Refusing to Sign
Several major brands like Levi’s and IKEA have refused to join the safety mechanism, raising concerns about their commitment to ethical sourcing and worker safety.
By not signing and contributing, they are seen as "freeriding" on the efforts of other brands that are part of the Accord. This means they indirectly benefit from the improved safety standards without taking on any responsibility for funding or governance.
These brands still profit from the safety improvements made possible by the Accord without financially or politically supporting it, which draws criticism from labor rights advocates.
Research Findings
Research indicates that Levi's and IKEA benefit from the program without contributing to it. These findings highlight the importance of corporate accountability in global supply chains.
IKEA's Oversight
IKEA had been present in one factory since 2007. This long-term presence makes the subsequent safety oversights particularly concerning.
A post-Rana Plaza inspection revealed numerous overlooked safety violations, even though their monitoring program should have identified these issues:
Lack of fire-rated doors, posing a significant risk in case of a fire.
Locked exit doors, preventing workers from escaping during emergencies.
Cracks in the walls, indicating structural instability.
Faulty electrical wiring, despite a 2008 program identifying it as a risk.
Issues were resolved without IKEA's contribution to the safety program, underscoring the unfair distribution of responsibility.
Levi’s Factory Conditions
Levi’s had been sourcing from one factory since 2011, indicating a need for continuous monitoring and improvement of safety standards.
Engineers found:
Corrosion in columns supporting the multi-story building, compromising the building's structural integrity.
Poor electrical systems with no proof of regular inspections, increasing the risk of electrical fires.
These issues were remediated in the three years following the inspection without Levi’s contributing to the program that enabled the improvements.
Call to Brands to Sign the Accord
The CCC calls on IKEA, Levi’s, Gap, Target, VF Corporation (The North Face), and Canadian Tire to sign the Accord, urging these major brands to take responsibility for worker safety in their supply chains.
The call is specifically directed to brands that were buyers at Rana Plaza factories in 2013 but have not signed the International Accord including:
Auchan, a French supermarket chain.
Walmart, a US retailer.
Factories these brands source from still have similar safety risks as before the Rana Plaza collapse, emphasizing the urgent need for comprehensive safety measures.
Worker's Perspective
Md. Kamrul Hassan (General Secretary of Akota Garments Worker Federation (AGWF)): Workers need assurance of safety at work as a basic right. His perspective highlights the human impact of unsafe working conditions.
He emphasizes the Accord's important work in making factories safer and the critical role of worker empowerment in ensuring safe workplaces.
He points out the refusal of brands like Levi's, IKEA, Gap, and Walmart to join the Accord, which undermines the progress made in improving factory safety.
He advocates for a system where unions are part of the solution to improve the garment industry, ensuring workers have a voice in safety and labor practices.
All brands sourcing from Bangladesh must sign the International Accord to prove they care about workers' safety and are committed to ethical sourcing.
Ensuring the Accord’s Success
Successful implementation of the Accord on the ground is crucial, prioritizing workers' interests. This involves rigorous inspections, effective remediation, and worker training programs.
All stakeholders should ensure the Accord's work is carried out as intended, so workers can feel safe. This includes brands, factory owners, governments, and labor