Comprehensive Notes on Common Turfgrass Problems, Alternatives, Edible Gardening, and Composting

Common Turfgrass Problems - Weeds

Definition: A plant out of place.
You decide what a weed is in your yard and the acceptable level.

Control Methods

Keep grass healthy to better compete.
Manual removal.
Chemical herbicides.
- Proper weed identification is crucial.
- Broadleaf (dicot) vs. grassy weeds (monocot).
- Perennial vs. annual.
- Follow the label!
- Unintentional consequences.
- Preemergent vs. contact herbicide.

Identification of Common Turf Weeds

Broadleaf weeds (dicots):
- Dandelion (medicinal purposes).
- Henbit.
- Plantain (medicinal purposes).
Grassy weeds (monocots):
- Crabgrass:
- Wider blade than most turfgrass.
- Develops in clumps and spreads in a circular motion.
- Nutsedge:
- Yellower and taller than grass.

Common Turfgrass Problems - Diseases

Control

Break the triangle (take out one of the factors).
Resistant species/cultivars.
Proper fertilizing/mowing.
Healthy plants are less susceptible to disease.

Proper Watering

Healthy plants.
Control environment.

Chemical Applications

Kill the pathogen.

Identification of Common Turf Diseases

Fairy Ring:
- Cooler weather of spring/early summer.
- Fungal pathogen.
- First indication: a dark ring or circle (can be half ring or partial).
- Grass in the ring is a darker color.
- Sometimes mushrooms (in ring or half-ring shape).
- Does not kill the grass in that area.
Dollar Spots:
- Brown small spots.
- Likes warm temps (summer season).
- Promoted by low N and drought conditions.
- Will kill the grass if it gets bad enough.

Control:

Correct watering: Irrigate deeply, infrequently, and in the morning.
Late spring nitrogen application.
Fungicide.
- Brown Patch:
Summer.
Promoted by high N and hot/humid/wet weather.
Will kill grass.

Control:

Correct watering—irrigate in the morning.
Aerate compact soil to increase drainage.
Fungicide.

Turfgrass Problems - Insects

White grubs (Beetle larva):
- Late July/August.
- Feed on roots of turfgrass and thatch layer.
- Turf can be picked up easily, not connected to the soil.
- Animals root up turf to eat grubs.

Control:

Parasitic nematodes.
Chemical insecticide drenches to soil.

Turfgrass Problems - Vertebrates

Moles:
- Do not feed on plants.
- Cause mechanical damage as they search for grubs and earthworms.
- Uproots plants.
- Rough surface—uncomfortable mowing.

Control:

Control food source.
Traps: Find an active main tunnel to place the trap.
Barriers: 2’ depth and 6” above ground (metal, heavy-duty plastic, or wire).
Beware of gimmicks.
Repellents/poisons not effective.

Turfgrass Alternatives - Advantages

Can choose tolerant plants:
- Drought tolerant.
- Tolerant of damp areas, shade tolerant.
Less maintenance in some regards (species dependent).
Less irrigation.
Less/no mowing.
Possibly fewer fertilizers/chemicals.
Pollinator food.
Benefits ecosystem.

Turfgrass Alternatives - Disadvantages

Not as tolerant to foot traffic.
Can be more labor/more expensive to install INITIALLY.
Still requires some maintenance, including weeding.

Turfgrass Alternatives - Species

Stonecrops (Sedum):
- Drought-tolerant.
- Flowering.
- Not tolerant to foot traffic.
Mosses:
- Shade-loving.
- Tolerant of wet areas.
Ornamental grasses:
- Not meant to be mowed.
- Missouri’s native sedges are a good choice.
- Taller/less even appearance.
Grass-like ornamentals:
- Liriope: They flower.
Creeping Phlox:
- Blooms early spring.
- Full sun, drought-tolerant, deer-resistant.
- Green in summer, feathery texture.
Creeping Thyme:
- Tolerates some foot traffic.
- 3-6 inches tall.
- Blooms June-Sept.
- Fragrant.
- Full sun.
- Blooms purple color.
Clover:
- Sun or part shade.
- Drought-tolerant.
- Fixes nitrogen.
- Inexpensive to install.
- Deer issue (they like to eat it).
- Good pollinator food.
- Microclover: Shorter, fewer blooms.
- Regular white clover: Taller, more blooms.
- Could be good to do multiple together.
- Key thing: to make it look like a lawn, use shorter varieties.

Meadowscaping

Taller species.
Often wildflowers/native species.
Still has maintenance (weeding).

Edible Gardening

Factors to Consider

Size:
- Beginner: 100-200 sq ft.
- Hobbyist: 400-800 sq ft.
- Experienced: Go for it!
Time to manage it:
- Average 1-2 minutes/sqft/week.
- Example: 800 square foot garden = 13-26 hrs per week.
- Varies by stage of the garden: Early season more maintenance, later season harvest.
Harvest quantities needed: Size of household recommendations; fresh consumption only vs. preserving for the year.

Location

Topography

Ease of working.
Water drainage.
Erosion.

Elevation

Frost pockets.

Sunlight

Duration: Review full sun vs. part sun vs. shade.
Intensity: Time of day the sun is received along with temperature.

Proximity to Trees/Shrubs

Blocking sunlight.
Root system could cause physical problems (hard to till through tree roots).
Draws moisture away from the grass.

Soil Quality

Well-drained.
High quality depth: 12-18” ideal; 8” minimum (shallow-rooted species).
Minimum 5% organic matter.
Ideal pH 6-6.8.
Adequate level of N, P, K, Ca, S, Mg.
Get soil test!

Timing

Soil test: 6 months before planting date.
Time between last spring frost and first fall frost.
- Check almanac: Average… <50% chance of a frost is risky.

Missouri Growing Season

North MO: 135 days.
Central MO: 150 days.
South MO: 165 days.
Warm season vs. cool season crops:
- Warm season:
- Will not tolerate frost.
- Must be grown within that frost-free growing season.
- Summer garden.
- Cool season crops:
- Extend your growing season.
- Will tolerate light frost but not the heat.
- Spring and fall garden.

Example: Central MO

Spring season starts March 20th - extends the growing season by ~40 days.
Fall season extends into November, adding about 30 days.
Warm season and cool-season crops are different species.
If doing both, there may be some overlap.

Cold Frames or Hotbeds

Bottomless structure to cover plants.
Clear covering - removable cover or top.
Needs south-facing exposure.
- Cold frame: Only ground heat and sun.
- Hotbed: Additional heat source.
Extends growing season by a couple of weeks.

Planting Methods

Standard flat.
Waffle garden.
Raised beds.
Floating.
Rigid.

Raised Beds - Advantages

Water drains faster in rainy seasons.
Easier to amend the soil.
Expands access opportunities.
Easier to level on a slope.

Raised Beds - Disadvantages

Material cost.
Needs more water in drought seasons.
Soil temperature fluctuates more.

Material Options

Wood.
Concrete.
Rocks.
Logs.
Metal.

Choosing Species to Grow

What you like to eat.
What is easy to grow.
Tolerant of less than ideal conditions.
Minimal disease or insect problems.
Need for additional trellising support.
Caution: some species perennial/spreading – could become invasive.

Seeds vs. Transplants in Edible Gardening

Seeds

Can be local or by mail order (more variety of cultivars).
Cheaper per plant.
Sometimes have leftover seeds to be used next year.
Increased risk: Germination factors review; size of seed.

Transplants

Guaranteed plant - less risk.
More expensive per plant.
Limited cultivars available.
Normally available at the correct time for planting.

Other Forms

Tubers.
Crowns.
Bulbs.
Slips.
Roots.

Cultivar Selection

Planting Considerations

Row Direction - Sunlight Factor (Northern Hemisphere)

Ideal: North/South to maximize sun exposure.
West/East: Must plant tall species on the north end (short on the south side) so the tall plants don't block the sunlight from the rest of the garden.

Slope/Water Drainage

Beds should be perpendicular to the slope.

Spacing

Between Plants

Competition for resources: Water/nutrients/light.

Between Rows

Competition.
Access to walk/work/harvest.

Species Placement

Within Season

Tall plants to the north.
Companion plants: Mutually benefit each other (e.g., tomatoes and basil; the smell of basil repels bugs that are attracted to tomatoes).

Year to Year

Crop Rotation: Helps control soil-borne diseases and pests; nutritional considerations.
- 4-year rotation: Group like crops (or same family) into quadrants.
- Legume crop (they are nitrogen fixers).
- Leafy green crops (needs nitrogen).
- Fruit (botanical) crop (needs nitrogen and high levels of phosphorus).
- Root crop (focus on phosphorus and potassium).

Aftercare

Mulching

Stick with organic: Old newspaper as weed fabric, grass clippings, leaf litter, straw, hay.
Moisture retention.
Weed control.
Decrease disease issues.

Watering

Thoroughly after planting.
1” per week once established.
In the morning.
Avoid wetting leaves if possible.
Soaker hose or directed hand watering vs. oscillating sprinkler (use only in the morning so the plant can dry).

Common Pests

Weeds

Mulching (opaque or physical but water-permeable barrier).
Hand pulling, hoeing.
Caution using herbicides—don't want to hit your plants.
Interplanting: Planting two species in the same area. The ground cover plant blocks out sun to prevent weeds from growing but causes more competition for resources. If the plants are in two different plant families, it's harder to do crop rotation.

Insects

No scientific proof that marigolds actually repel pests.
They do attract ladybugs, which is beneficial (they eat aphids).

Control Methods:

Crop rotation.
Exclusion (putting netting over garden bed).
Physical removal/squishing/rinsing.
Chemical pesticides: Last resort and follow the label; neem oil.

Common Pests - Insects

Aphids: Have cornicles (two appendages off of their back).
Ants.
Caterpillars: Chewed leaves.
Whiteflies.

Common Pests - Diseases

Disease triangle.

Control methods:

Choose resistant cultivars.
Watering practices.
Crop rotation.
Control insect vectors.
Chemical pesticides.

Common Garden Diseases

Powdery Mildew:
- Resistant varieties.
- Airflow: Spacing (more airflow, they won’t stay damp, which powdery mildew likes).
- Baking soda spray.
- Neem oil.
Vascular Wilt Disease:
- Control insect vector.
- Crop rotation.
- Bacterial diseases multiply in the xylem of the plant, making it so they cant absorb water.
- There aren’t really signs of disease; need to look for insect vectors.
Vertebrates:
- Physical barriers.
- Deterrents.
- Traps.

What to Do with Excess Harvest

Give to friends and family (or barter).
Give to food bank.
Farmers market/roadside stand.
Preserve for future personal use.

Preserving Garden Produce for Future Use

Dehydrate

Clean and cut into uniform pieces (thinner=faster).
Cool completely.
Airtight containers.
Good for 1-2 years.

Freeze

Clean and blanch.
Package then freeze.
Freeze on trays then package.
Good for 8-12 months.

Canning

Heating food in jars to a temperature that will inactivate enzymes and kill microorganisms, drives out air and creates a vacuum in the jars as it cools.

Water Bath Canning

Jars submerged in boiling water.
Only for acid foods — pH less than 4.6:
- Fruit.
- Pickled food.
- Tomatoes/salsa (with added acid).

Pressure Can

Jars heated under pressure.
Low acid foods: Beans, peas, peppers, carrots.
Best qualities within 1 year but safe as long as it remains sealed.
Proper method is critical to prevent botulism - follow tested recipes exactly.

Tomato

Choose disease-resistant cultivars.
6-8 hours of sunlight, high phosphorus needs adequate water.
Trench planting.
Needs additional support.
Indeterminate vs. determinate - REVIEW THIS
Pruning: Removing suckers.
Allow to vine ripen for best flavor.

Common Problem

Blossom end rot.
Tomato hornworm.

Pepper

6-8 hours of sunlight.
Additional support helpful.
Heavy feeders, N and P.
Will produce up to first frost.
What is the difference between a colored bell pepper and a green bell pepper?
Can you plant a hot pepper and a sweet pepper in close proximity?

Common Problems

Sunscald.

Cucurbit Family

Cucumber, squash, melon, pumpkins.
Easy to start from seed direct in the garden.
Need adequate water.
Climbers can be grown vertically on a trellis if smaller fruit.
Most are monoecious with separate male and female flowers.
Pollinators necessary unless parthenocarpic.
- Parthenocarpic refers to the process where fruits develop without fertilization, resulting in seedless fruit.

Common Problems

Insects and the diseases they vector.
Powdery mildew.

Herbaceous Perennial Edibles

Rhubarb

What part is eaten (stem).
Started from crowns or seed.
Allow to establish the first year, harvest the 2nd year (May-June).
Pull rather than cut leaves, 10-18” long petiole.
Remove flower stalks to encourage leaf growth.

Asparagus

Started from crowns or seed.
Takes 2-3 years to establish to harvestable stage.
Harvest 6-10” spears.
6-8 week harvest period in spring.
Stop harvesting June/July or when stems are thinner/fernlike.

Edible Gardening Containers - Benefits

Overcome planting limitations (no ground area available, poor soil conditions).
Can move to various microclimates based on time of year or weather conditions.
Restraining of invasive species.

Growing Edibles in Containers

Can any edible be grown in a container?
- Tomato - 5 gallons per plant.
- Pepper - 3 gallons per plant.
Same container requirements as ornamentals:
- Drainage.
- Good potting media.

Composting

What Is It?

Partial decomposition of organic matter.

Benefits?

Good use of waste materials - keeps out of landfill.
Creates an excellent soil amendment - improves texture; adds nutrients (small amounts).

What CAN Be Composted

Grass clippings.
Leaves.
Herbaceous plant trimmings (green or brown).
Plant-based food scraps.
Cow, hog, horse, or chicken manure.
Shredded newspaper.
Coffee grounds/tea bags.
Hay/straw.

What CAN’T/SHOULDN’T Be Composted

Inorganic materials.
Pet poo.
Large chunks of wood.
Meat/bones/fat.
Known diseased material.