Oceanography Study Notes

Prologue

  • Introduction to Scientific Inquiry and History of Oceanography

Early Expeditions of the 19th & 20th Centuries

HMS Challenger Expedition

  • Leader: Charles Wyville Thompson

  • Duration: December 21, 1872, until May 24, 1876

HMS Challenger Expedition Achievements

  • Depth Measurements: Conducted at 361 locations

  • Maximum Depth Discovered: 26,850 feet, found in the Marianas Trench, located in the western Pacific Ocean

  • Seawater Consistency: Relative abundance of the major component ions of seawater is constant regardless of sample location

  • Species Discovery: Identified 4,717 new species of marine organisms

Oceanographic Institutions

Scripps Institution of Oceanography

  • Established: 1903

  • Transfer: Officially transferred to the University of California in 1912

Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution

  • Founded: 1930

  • Funding: Largely financed by a grant from the Rockefeller Foundation

Ocean Science in Modern Times

Definition of Modern Oceanography

  • Oceanography: The sciences focused on understanding the oceans

Types of Oceanography

Geological Oceanography

  • Focus: Study of the Earth at the sea’s edge and below its surface, including the history of processes that form the ocean basin

Physical Oceanography

  • Investigation Areas: Investigates causes and characteristics of water movements such as waves, tides, and their effects on the marine environment

Marine Meteorology

  • Scope: Study of heat transfer, water cycles, and air-sea interaction

Chemical Oceanography

  • Studies: Composition, history of ocean water, processes affecting it, and interactions with various elements

Biological Oceanography

  • Focus: Concerns marine organisms and their relationships with the ocean environment

Marine Engineering

  • Discipline: Involves the design and planning of equipment and installations for use at sea

Scientific Inquiry

  • Assumptions of Science:

    • The natural world is consistent

    • The natural world is predictable

  • Goal of Science: To discover patterns in nature and utilize knowledge to make predictions

Hypothesis and Theory

  • Definitions:

    • Hypothesis: A possible natural explanation for observations

    • Theory: A scientific concept supported by a large body of evidence

  • Scientific Method:

    • Gather facts through observation

    • Formulate hypotheses and theories

Scientific Method

Steps to Gain Scientific Knowledge

  1. Recognize a problem

  2. Collect data

  3. Propose a hypothesis

  4. Test the hypothesis

  5. Reexamine the hypothesis – accept, modify, or reject based on the results

Establishing a Theory

  • Definition of a Scientific Law: A relationship that applies universally without exception under a defined range of conditions

  • Unexpected Occurrences: Considerations taken into account during scientific inquiry

Chapter 01: The Water Planet

The Significance of Water on Earth

  • Water Coverage: 71% of Earth’s surface is covered by oceans

  • Land Coverage: 29% of the surface area consists of land

    • Continents

    • Islands

Distribution of Land and Water

  • Hydrologic Cycle: Visual representation showing the distribution of land and water in the Northern and Southern Hemispheres

Ocean Area and Volume

  • Ocean Area: Approximately 140 million mi² (362 million km²)

  • Water Volume: Approximately 1.35 billion km³

The Five Major Ocean Basins

Pacific Ocean

  • Characteristics:

    • Largest ocean basin

    • Holds the greatest volume of water

    • Has the greatest average depth

  • Area: 168,723,000 km² (65,143,950 mi²)

  • Earth's Surface Area Coverage: 33.1%

  • Ocean Volume: 50.1%

  • Maximum Depth: 10,911 m (35,797 ft)

Atlantic Ocean

  • Characteristics:

    • About half the size of the Pacific

    • Relatively narrow and third deepest ocean

    • Extends the furthest distance north and south

  • Area: 85,133,000 km² (32,869,851 mi²)

  • Earth's Surface Area Coverage: 16.7%

  • Ocean Volume: 23.3%

  • Maximum Depth: 8,486 m (27,841 ft)

Indian Ocean

  • Characteristics:

    • Slightly smaller than the Atlantic

    • Second deepest ocean

    • Predominantly a Southern Hemisphere body

  • Area: 70,560,000 km² (27,243,216 mi²)

  • Earth's Surface Area Coverage: 13.8%

  • Ocean Volume: 19.8%

  • Maximum Depth: 7,906 m (25,938 ft)

Southern Ocean

  • Designation: Described as the