Into Thin Air

Into Thin Air - Notes by Jon Krakauer

The Summit of Everest

Jon Krakauer describes reaching the summit of Mount Everest, noting his physical and mental exhaustion. He observes the vast landscape but is unable to fully appreciate it due to his depleted state. The date is May 10th, and Krakauer notes he hasn't slept in 57 hours, has barely eaten, and is suffering from separated ribs, rendering him physically drained. He acknowledges the limited oxygen significantly impaired his cognitive functions. He took a few quick photos and started his descent after spending less than five minutes at the summit at 1:17 P.M.

Descent and Weather Deterioration

During his descent, Krakauer notices a change in weather conditions, with clouds obscuring surrounding peaks. This observation raises questions about why climbers on the upper mountain continued their ascent despite the deteriorating weather. The question remains if the lure of reaching the summit clouded the judgment of climbers and guides, many of whom had paid a substantial amount of money (up to 65,000) for the experience. Krakauer recalls the clouds looking harmless and wispy, indistinguishable from the usual harmless puffs of convection condensation that rose from the valley almost daily. His primary concern at that moment was his almost empty oxygen tank, compelling him to descend as quickly as possible.

The Southeast Ridge and Hillary Step

Krakauer describes the dangerous conditions of the Southeast Ridge, including its exposure and technical challenges. He encounters a traffic jam at the Hillary Step, a narrow notch requiring technical maneuvering. This bottleneck of climbers from various expeditions, including Rob Hall's Adventure Consultants, Scott Fischer's group, and a Taiwanese team, further delayed his descent and depleted his oxygen supply.

Oxygen Depletion and Descent

Krakauer recounts a critical moment when guide Andy Harris mistakenly opens his oxygen valve fully, draining his tank. This forces Krakauer to descend the most exposed terrain without supplemental oxygen. He emphasizes the life-threatening consequences of Harris's hypoxic error. He reflects on the frustration of waiting for other climbers to clear the Hillary Step while his own brain cells were dying due to lack of oxygen.

South Summit and Worsening Weather

Upon reaching the South Summit, Krakauer notes the rapidly deteriorating weather conditions, with mist and snow reducing visibility. He emphasizes the contrast between the climbers' carefree celebration on the summit and the impending danger. Krakauer grabbed a fresh oxygen cylinder, jammed it onto his regulator, and hurried down into the gathering cloud.

Historical Context: 1963 Everest Ascent

Krakauer draws a parallel to the 1963 ascent of Everest's West Ridge by Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld, emphasizing their daring decision to descend the unknown Southeast Ridge late in the day. Their survival, though at the cost of Unsoeld's toes, serves as a historical reference point for the risks of high-altitude climbing. He describes the personal connection he had with Willi Unsoeld, a close friend of his father's from his hometown in Oregon, and how accounts of the 1963 Everest epic resonated within him.

Everest's Commercialization and Criticism

Krakauer discusses the increasing commercialization of Everest, the rise of guided expeditions, and the criticism from traditionalists who view it as a debasement of the mountain. He references Dick Bass, who became the first person to ascend all Seven Summits and inspired other amateur climbers to follow in his guided bootprints.

The Business of Guiding and Lawsuits

He addresses the legal issues arising from commercial expeditions, where some clients sue their guides for failing to deliver a summit. Peter Athans lamented that occasionally you'll get a client who thinks he's bought a guaranteed ticket to the summit. Krakauer explains that expeditions on the northern, Tibetan side of the mountain are considerably cheaper (from 20,000 to $$40,000) than those on the south, in part because China charges much less for climbing permits than does Nepal.

Rob Hall's Success and Krakauer's Decision

Krakauer highlights Rob Hall's exceptional success rate as a guide, which led to Krakauer's decision to join Hall's expedition, despite his previous disdain for Everest's commercialization.

Base Camp and Its Amenities

Krakauer describes the environment of Everest Base Camp, including its comforts and the presence of multiple expeditions. The altimeter read 17,600 feet. He notes the constant threat of avalanches and the Khumbu Icefall's proximity. He emphasized the stark contrast between the harsh qualities of the environment and the amenities at the Base Camp, which included a mess tent with a stereo system and solar-powered electric lights, a communications tent, hot shower, and fresh food supplied every few days by yaks.

Rob Hall and Scott Fischer: A Contrast in Styles

The dynamic between Rob Hall and Scott Fischer, as friends and competitors, is explored. Hall was respected at Base Camp, where people sought him to offer advice. Fischer's camp had a Starbucks Coffee banner hanging from a chunk of granite. The 40-year-old Fischer was gregarious, with manic energy and a damn-the-torpedoes style. In contrast to Hall, who insisted that his clients climb as a group at all times under the close watch of his guides, Fischer encouraged his clients to move independently.

Pressures on Hall and Fischer

Both Hall and Fischer faced pressure to succeed, with Hall needing to rebound from a previous unsuccessful season and Fischer aiming to establish himself in the Everest business, particularly with a high-profile client like Sandy Hill Pittman.

Acclimatization and Physical Toll

Krakauer details the physical challenges of high altitude, including breathlessness, vertigo, coughing, and appetite loss. The oxygen-deprived stomach shut down, and his body began to consume itself for sustenance. He shares his personal experience of physical deterioration, including weight loss. Another teammate, Doug Hansen, was plagued by headaches. This was Hansen's second time on Everest with Hall. Previously, deep snow and the late hour forced him to turn around 330 vertical feet below the summit.

Doug Hansen's Motivation and Backstory

The postal worker from Seattle had become Krakauer's closest friend on the mountain. Hansen had been talked into returning this year by Hall, who felt sorry that Hansen had been denied the summit and significantly discounted Hansen's fee to entice him to give it another try. Hansen was writing faxes to his two kids, ages 19 and 27, and to an elementary school in Kent, Washington, that had sold T-shirts to help fund his climb.

Krakauer's Concerns and Hall's Acclimatization Method

Krakauer expresses his concern about his ability to perform at high altitude and he describes Hall's acclimatization plan, involving three trips above Base Camp to gradually adjust to the altitude. He had never been above 17,000 feet. Hall assured him the plan had worked 39 times so far.

The Khumbu Icefall

Krakauer recounts the passage through the Khumbu Icefall, highlighting its dangers and the Sherpas' efforts to fix ropes and ladders. There were more than a mile of rope and about 60 aluminum ladders over the crevasses. Hall remarked glibly that the Icefall was in better shape than he'd ever seen it: