Rizal's Second Trip to Europe: An In-depth Look

In February 1888, José Rizal was forced to leave the Philippines for the second time due to pressures from powerful enemies. At 27 years old, he was already a practicing physician and recognized man of letters. After spending six months in the Philippines, he departed on the steamer Zapiro, heading to Hong Kong.

Hong Kong, then a British colony, provided a brief refuge for Rizal. He stayed at the Victoria Hotel and met with several associates, including Jose Maria Basa, Balbino Mauricio, and Manuel Yriarte. One of the notable figures trailing Rizal was Jose Sainz de Varanda, a Spaniard believed to be acting as a spy for Spanish authorities. Rizal described Hong Kong in a letter as a small but very clean city. During his two-week stay, he absorbed local Chinese customs and lifestyle, leading him to document his observations in his diary. He noted the luxurious hospitality of the Chinese, highlighted by the elaborate Chinese New Year celebrations featuring explosive firecrackers.

On February 18, Rizal took a ferry to Macao, a Portuguese colony adjacent to Hong Kong. He was underwhelmed by Macao, describing it as small, gloomy, and almost lifeless. Rizal witnessed a Catholic procession there, which struck him for its somberness. He later returned to Hong Kong on February 20, having spent some time with other passengers, including Don Juan Francisco Lecaros, a Filipino who hosted Rizal in his home.

On February 22, Rizal left Hong Kong for Japan on board the American steamer Oceanic, making a lasting impression during his short time there. Upon arriving in Yokohama, he spent just one day at the Grand Hotel before moving to Tokyo, where he stayed for five days. Juan Perez Caballero, the secretary of the Spanish legation, invited him to stay there under the pretext of monitoring him. Rizal accepted the invitation to minimize expenses, believing he had nothing to fear from the authorities.

While in Tokyo, Rizal faced embarrassment for not knowing Japanese, often mistaken for an “Europeanized” Japanese. To overcome this, he dedicated himself to studying the language, leveraging his linguistic talent to become proficient within days. Moreover, he explored Japanese drama, arts, judo, and local museums. Rizal’s experience in Japan culminated in a romance with a woman named Seiko Usui, affectionately referred to as O-Sei-San, who played a significant role in enriching his understanding of Japanese culture. Their romance flourished as they visited various cultural sites and shared conversations in both English and French to bypass language barriers. Although tempted to stay and start a life with O-Sei-San, Rizal chose to continue his journey due to his commitment to the fight against colonialism.

On April 13, Rizal left Japan on the Belgic, an English steamer, leaving behind his cherished memories of O-Sei-San. He arrived in San Francisco, witnessing racial prejudice against Chinese and African Americans. Rizal had mixed feelings about America. While he admired the country’s material progress and opportunities for immigrants, he was appalled by the racial discrimination prevalent in society. He documented his experiences, including the quarantine of his ship, which was a reflection of the political sentiment against Chinese immigrants at that time.

During his travels across the United States, he experienced both the beauty of the land and the injustices of racial prejudice. He ultimately made his way to New York, reaching it on May 13, where he spent three days reflecting on his journey and the condition of oppressed peoples. On May 16, 1888, Rizal departed New York for Liverpool aboard the City of Rome, where he was once again faced with the task of contributing to the Propaganda Movement against Spanish colonialism.

Rizal settled in London for a year to improve his English, annotate Morga's book "Sucesos de las Islas Filipinas," and find a safe space to continue his advocacy. While in London, Rizal faced unsettling news from the Philippines regarding the persecution of Filipino patriots and the attacks on his work, particularly his novel Noli Me Tangere. Throughout his sojourn in Europe, Rizal engaged with the Filipino expatriate community and actively participated in discussions on reform, underscoring his commitment to achieving civil liberties for his countrymen. His work culminated in various publications, including homages to women's education and critiques of colonial rule, all part of his broader goal for social justice